everything electrical in my trailer

[gene so]

Hello, I await the Intellipower 4000 ac/dc unit this week so I can begin to run my wiring for my trailer. I am beginning to build my 9 foot trailer with galley and I shall have a subfloor for running electrical and propane lines.
My electrical needs will be: 12-12v lights (running, accessory, tail lights etc. 4-120v lights and switches ,receptacles for 12 and 120 with GFI's in galley, 2-shore light receptacles, galley and main, a 12v fan in the vent. I will have electrical brakes.
I have propane refrigerator, heater and cooktop, what exactly do I do electrically for the refrigerator and heater?
I will have an air conditioner and some sort of recreation appliance. Is it best to have a 12v air condtioner so I can use it anuywhere or will the electrical draw be so much that it would not be practical?
Thanks to Craigs List I have a large storage box so that battery size is not going to be a problem. With the electrical fixtures and usage I have outlined, what do you think would be the best size of battery for me? This camper is heavier duty, with custom 2x2 steel frame and 3,500 pd. axle and springs. I will be towing this unit off road with my 4 x 4, in addition to more civilized use.
I have been told the electrical boxes used in mobile homes are thin and good for camper trailers. Any practical ideas as to protecting the wiring and also doing my best to avoid shorts due to water etc. in the running lights would be deeply appreciated now. Thank you very much for your attention in this matter.

Gene So

[les45]

I ran all my wiring for cabin DC and running lights inside the cabin. I used Wiremold running along the floor under the mattress with running lights on one side and battery primary wires on the other side. My battery box sat on the tongue and came into the cabin using clear flexible tubing as conduit. You can see most of my electrical details at this link to my journal: http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=49333&start=60

[GuitarPhotog]

Your running/clearance lights, and turn/stop lights should not be powered off your trailer battery or converter. They should be powered directly from the tow vehicle.

You don't want a dead trailer battery or converter to affect your ability to tow it safely.

<Chas>

[les45]

I wrapped my running light wiring and ran it through the battery box mostly for looks. Running lights are still powered from the TV through the normal plug in connectors.

[gene so]

Hello,

I am completely confused by this statement:" Running lights are still powered from the TV through the normal plug in connectors."

Thanks for these insights to my electrrical challenges.

Gene So

[les45]

Hello,

I am completely confused by this statement:" Running lights are still powered from the TV through the normal plug in connectors."

Thanks for these insights to my electrrical challenges.

Gene So

TV = tow vehicle. You should have an electrical connector on your tow vehicle near the hitch that is wired into your vehicle lights. Your tow vehicle provides the DC power for the trailer running lights. Your trailer wiring will have a corresponding plug on the tongue that you connect when towing. The wiring from the trailer plug is what I was talking about routing into my cabin. All my trailer running lights (clearance lights, brake and turn signals) are built into the walls of the cabin where you can easily access them from inside to connect the wiring.