H.A. wrote:Looks ok excepting the inverter output should connect to the transfer.(Btw, transfer relay is sort of pointless unless using a built in generator.) Simple & foolproof method is dont use a transfer & plugging the inlet to the generator, inverter or mainspower as desired.
troubleScottie wrote:It probably is not a good idea to connect the invert to the distribution panel. Most likely it will not have sufficient power or sufficient quality or will be very limited by your batteries to powering only a small subset of AC items and only for short periods. You might be better off just plugging items into the inverter as needed.
Then there is the odd circuit, the battery is powering the inverter which is powering the distribution panel that is powering the charger that is charging the battery. Most likely you are not looking to do this. You would have to disconnect the charger when using the inverter.
In addition, the inverter consumers power when just connected. You want to disconnect it whenever it is not in use.
troubleScottie wrote:It is unlikely you can run the microwave off the inverter. Someone else can step in but I think this will burn through your battery. You are better off waiting for a shore power source eg shore power or the generator is on. You might be surprised on the amount of power needed. A 1500W generator supports only 1 hairdryer. Typical microwaves are in this same power range.
Although there are frigs/freezers that run on DC or AC, again I am not sure if (1) the inverter has the correct wave output for a frig as motors like pure sine wave output (if a compressor a big motor??) or (2) enough power to run a household frig, even a small one. The inverter is inefficient, so you will use even more power. Good ones are 90%, average ones only 80%. There are others with more complete analysis.
The DC frigs use a different, lower power mechanism to cool. Thus can run on a battery without draining it immediately. If you are getting a DC/AC frig, you want to wire to both DC for when you are on battery and for AC when on shore power. Obviously switches to select source.
BTW, you left out the towing vehicle. You may need/want to run wires like you are putting a big audio amplifier in the trunk of a car. Great source while traveling for charging the battery or running your frig. Most of the other appliances are off while traveling.
m.glisson003 wrote: Based on some math I found http://www.livesmallridefree.com/blog/residential-fridges-in-boondocking-rvs at this awesome write up the fridge I am looking to use (3.2 Cu ft) should use around 30AH of battery power per day. I have read in other places and in that article that household appliances like fridges may require a Pure Sine wave inverters. So I know I must get a pure sine inverter. Now I just need to figure out the minimum size inverter I need to get based on running the fridge the entire time and other needs.
H.A. wrote:Fwiw,
As far as refrigerators. Had you considered a AC-DC 'fridge such as ARB or Norcold ?
Quite thrifty on power consumption, albeit fairly expensive buying...
Microwave ovens, Years ago, There were 12 & 24 DC volt "travel" models, But stupidly expensive.
Now days they use an inverter with the microwave separate appliance.
The Microwave is pretty much like any other, But modified for travel such as its glass turntable has cleats what hold it from bouncing off.
bdosborn wrote:m.glisson003 wrote: Based on some math I found http://www.livesmallridefree.com/blog/residential-fridges-in-boondocking-rvs at this awesome write up the fridge I am looking to use (3.2 Cu ft) should use around 30AH of battery power per day. I have read in other places and in that article that household appliances like fridges may require a Pure Sine wave inverters. So I know I must get a pure sine inverter. Now I just need to figure out the minimum size inverter I need to get based on running the fridge the entire time and other needs.
30AH a day will take a fair amount of PV to keep up with. Have you looked at how a big a PV panel it would require? Without doing any math I'd guess at least 200 watts for a flat panel and that's only for the fridge, not any other loads. Doing an energy evaluation is the first step to sizing your system; how much power do you need and how much energy will you use in a day? Also, your diagram shows the fridge running off the inverter all the time, which is hard on your battery. You should consider a manual transfer switch so you can run it straight off shore power when available.
Bruce
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