Wiring Plan Feedback

[FBJcreation]

I have drafted the following wiring plan. I thought about setting up the AC & microwave outlets by doing a convert to invert scheme so they could be run on AC or DC, sort of. Also for charging the batteries can you use one charger on linked multiple batteries? Not a lot of space in a teardrop for lots of wiring. Trying to keep it relatively simple, like maybe cutting out the AC refrig outlet and DC/AC cabin outlet, or even the microwave outlet. My supervisor says she wants some conveniences when we are gramping.
Thoughts or suggestions would be welcome.

Wiring Teardrop FBCreations.jpg (71.7 KiB) Viewed 3582 times

[Aguyfromohio]

That sure looks correct to me.
You may consider fewer 110 VAC breakers. I only have one.
I figure a half dozen outlets running small appliances is the functional equivalent of the kitchen in my house, which has just the one breaker for all outlets - toaster, fridge . microwave, blender....
But no harm in having one breaker for each outlet

[FBJcreation]

Thanks for the feedback. Updated with 3 VAC breakers and optional 4th. Agree to many VAC for a teardrop trailer, used to wiring buildings. One galley circuit with an inverter for use when on a battery when boondocking/nonpower campsites is all we really need. Updated plans. I think I am going with the PD5000 Series AC/DC Power Distribution Panel – 30 Amp, 120 VAC.

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[troubleScottie]

For AC side, use GFCI outlets. Much safer given the environment.

For the DC side:

Should have fuse on positive wire near battery.

You should have a shutoff switch for the battery on the positive side. You might want to turn everything off.

You most likely do not need both a converter and charger. You can run on the battery while charging. You most likely want to run on the battery even when the converter is running, so the converter is charging the battery. So the A/B switch would be unnecessary. If the converter does not provide a staged charging system, you still might want the charger. Others can chime in on this.

You most like need some sort of SOC or at least battery voltage indicator.

You want some USB and DC outlets.

The DC grounds should home runs ie returning to the distribution panel.

You most likely want some switches for the lights, so you do not have to get into the TD to turn them on.

For your inverter: there should be a fuse on the positive DC wire near the inverter. There should be an easily accessible on/off switch on the inverter as inverters draw power even when not connected to any appliance. The inverter should be turned off when not in use eg disconnected from the battery.

[FBJcreation]

Thanks, all of that makes total sense as I've done a moderate amount of AC wiring over the years. I do have some questions. I assume you mean by DC grounds home runs is to treat them basically the same as AC wiring, aka ground everything. The one place I am a little fuzzy is on the converter & charger discussion. So let me try this, instead of a converter and charger just use a charger on the batteries and skip the A/B switch & converter? Or instead, use something like Thor 120 Volt to 12 Volt AC-DC Converter 3 Stage Battery Charger or PowerMax PM3-75 110V AC to 12V DC Power Supply Converter Charger for RV all in one units, skipping the need for A/B switch? I've not worked much with DC wiring setups, I assume the converter/charger comes into batteries on one end and power out to panel/inverter on the other in parallel? That looks like it will slow charging but shouldn't be a much of an issue if running on AC and charging. What amps size for the converter/charger should be considered? Thor's (for example purposes only) go up to 100 amps/1230 watts.

[Shadow Catcher]

Lots of outlets, both 12V and 120 AC. We have four 5 AC breakers one feeds the converter. My wife uses the one in the galley for coffee maker, electric fry pan, crock pot. One on the side of the trailer is a GFCI dedicated to the 5,000 BTU air-conditioner. In the cabin there are 4 duplex AC gotta plug in the laptop her iPad battery charger for recharging AAA for flashlights, TV/DVD Cell chargers... Until you have it you have no idea how convenient it all is.
Have more than you think you need!

[Esteban]

Many people install a Progressive Dynamics PD4045 in their teardrop. It will convert AC to DC power to charge your teardrop battery and distribute AC and DC circuits. There's a special version for lithium batteries too: progressivedyn.com/specialty/pd4000l.

A PD 4045 can be purchased from bestconverter.com/PD4045 or from teardroptrailerparts.com/electrical (where I bought one) and other suppliers.

[FBJcreation]

An updated version of the general wiring diagram based on feedback. DC related grounding to a common grounding bar to trailer (similar to when you do AC wiring). All DC grounded like AC. I know it is missing little "details" unlike a true wiring diagram. Using the KISS principle. Usable at a glance approach. Thanks much for all the input so far.

So equipment in my 'electrical' room are: AC surge protector, AC/DC distribution panel, AC/DC converter w/charger & 15 amp outlet for it from the panel, power inverter. In separated space: 12V batteries. In either galley or main cabin a 'control/monitoring' station with the SOC/voltmeter w/battery disconnect & inverter disconnect switches.

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[Aguyfromohio]

An updated version of the general wiring diagram ..I know it is missing little "details" unlike a true wiring diagram.

It's not lacking anything.
In engineering circles we call that diagram a "one line", which we use to design and construct things.
The more complete diagram that shows every single wire and connection we call a "point-to-point" diagram.

On my industrial construction projects we often don't have a point-to-point. When we do get them it's after the work is completed (an "as-built") so the plant electricians can use it in future years when repairing things.