Solar Cabling - two questions

[DoctahDeane]

Hi folks - pretty soon I'm going to get a panel, once I figure out how/where to store it. I understand the controller and all that stuff and I'm not going to permanently attach the panel to the trailer. I'll be good with getting what I can while off the grid. Two questions abut cabling. Under my trailer is a box where the battery and charger live (and fusebox). Is there any sort of airlock/clamshell port that I can use to run the solar cable into that box so I can attach to the battery? The other question is about some sort of 12v cigarette plug dongle that might be attached to the cabling ends so that I could run direct from the panel to an electric cooler (cooler in the shade, obviously)? Figure that if I'm careful about nighttime electric consumption, that would be a way to keep food cool during daytime and maybe even plug it back in (from battery) at bedtime. Anyway, as always, any suggestions or pointers would be appreciated.

[GTS225]

Is there any sort of airlock/clamshell port that I can use to run the solar cable into that box so I can attach to the battery?

Yes. There's a fitting available that uses common size electrical knockout punches that has a rubber seal in it. Install it into the wall of the electrical box, run your cable through it, and tighten down the gland nut. That squeezes the rubber onto the cable, making a waterproof seal.

The other question is about some sort of 12v cigarette plug dongle that might be attached to the cabling ends so that I could run direct from the panel to an electric cooler (cooler in the shade, obviously)?

Yep, that's available, too. If you have any automotive stereo shops around, they should be able to fix you up with a quality, 12vdc power port that can be panel mounted. (Do not get a cigarette lighter socket! They are cheaply built, and not designed for long term current consumption.) My personal suggestion would be to run a fused lead from your electrical box to your galley. A convenient mounting point for the port, and you've got your outlet for the cooler. (It could also be used for cell charging.)

Roger

[DoctahDeane]

Is there any sort of airlock/clamshell port that I can use to run the solar cable into that box so I can attach to the battery?

Yes. There's a fitting available that uses common size electrical knockout punches that has a rubber seal in it. Install it into the wall of the electrical box, run your cable through it, and tighten down the gland nut. That squeezes the rubber onto the cable, making a waterproof seal.

The other question is about some sort of 12v cigarette plug dongle that might be attached to the cabling ends so that I could run direct from the panel to an electric cooler (cooler in the shade, obviously)?

Yep, that's available, too. If you have any automotive stereo shops around, they should be able to fix you up with a quality, 12vdc power port that can be panel mounted. (Do not get a cigarette lighter socket! They are cheaply built, and not designed for long term current consumption.) My personal suggestion would be to run a fused lead from your electrical box to your galley. A convenient mounting point for the port, and you've got your outlet for the cooler. (It could also be used for cell charging.)

Roger

Thanks, Roger! Yes, I already have a quality 12v power port in the galley that I installed but you gave me a good idea I think. I can probably get a power port and use my Forstner bit to drill a hole in the box under the tailor and run the connection right back to the fusebox. Then, I could run the solar panel right to that port. Hopefully I can find a clamshell power port, if not, I can caulk it. So I guess in this design then I could simply plug the cooler into the newly installed power port and then good to go (literally). Thanks, amigo. Getting there though I suspect never done as they say!

[John61CT]

Is there any sort of airlock/clamshell port that I can use to run the solar cable into that box so I can attach to the battery?

Indeed called clams in the marine domain

https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?p ... id=2289996

other related keywords
water-tight bulkhead split Cable Glands / Cable Bushings / Wire Seal / Cord Grip Connectors / Strain Relief

> The other question is about some sort of 12v cigarette plug dongle

AARGH NO!

Standard ciggie sockets are IMO a dangerous abortion, avoid like the plague for anything important, or that you use regularly. Never more than 5-6A and only for short periods, as in a few minutes. Even then they are risky, an inherently poor design!

Blue Sea has a nice socket design that twist-locks with the matching plug, but will also accept standard ciggie plugs for smaller (<10A) loads.

Also the BMW/ Hella/ Merit/ Powerlet "Euro-style DIN" (ISO 4165) style is very robust.

Anderson plugs for high amps, for me my standard, for almost all power connections.

If you standardize on one of the last two types, there are adapters for guests, temporary use of devices with standard ciggie plugs.

[DoctahDeane]

Is there any sort of airlock/clamshell port that I can use to run the solar cable into that box so I can attach to the battery?

Indeed called clams in the marine domain

https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?p ... id=2289996

other related keywords
water-tight bulkhead split Cable Glands / Cable Bushings / Wire Seal / Cord Grip Connectors / Strain Relief

> The other question is about some sort of 12v cigarette plug dongle

AARGH NO!

Standard ciggie sockets are IMO a dangerous abortion, avoid like the plague for anything important, or that you use regularly. Never more than 5-6A and only for short periods, as in a few minutes. Even then they are risky, an inherently poor design!

Blue Sea has a nice socket design that twist-locks with the matching plug, but will also accept standard ciggie plugs for smaller (<10A) loads.

Also the BMW/ Hella/ Merit/ Powerlet "Euro-style DIN" (ISO 4165) style is very robust.

Anderson plugs for high amps, for me my standard, for almost all power connections.

If you standardize on one of the last two types, there are adapters for guests, temporary use of devices with standard ciggie plugs.

Thanks a lot. My bad - poor use of terminology. I def want to use quality parts so thanks for the pointers.

[Trebor English]

Two things.
Thing one: if you get a portable panel they usually come with a charge controller attached to the panel. If you get a panel and a controller and mount the controller near the battery you should not connect stuff to the panel wire. The power needs to go through the controller first.

Thing two: by electric cooler do you mean a Peltier thermoelectric cooler? Those take a huge amount of electricity and don't keep cold enough for safe storage of food. Typically they cool to 30 degrees below ambient. At 90 degrees your food is 60.

[DoctahDeane]

Two things.
Thing one: if you get a portable panel they usually come with a charge controller attached to the panel. If you get a panel and a controller and mount the controller near the battery you should not connect stuff to the panel wire. The power needs to go through the controller first.

Thing two: by electric cooler do you mean a Peltier thermoelectric cooler? Those take a huge amount of electricity and don't keep cold enough for safe storage of food. Typically they cool to 30 degrees below ambient. At 90 degrees your food is 60.

Thanks for this info. By electric cooler, I mean something like this, though this one is very expensive. I have not started to research yet, I just know I don't want to screw with ice cubes anymore.

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX35W-E ... 07&sr=8-48

[Trebor English]

That's a good one. It has a thermostat and can go below freezing. It's not thermoelectric.

[John61CT]

Two things.
Thing one: if you get a portable panel they usually come with a charge controller attached to the panel. If you get a panel and a controller and mount the controller near the battery you should not connect stuff to the panel wire. The power needs to go through the controller first.

Much better to bypass most "included kit" controllers, run the panel output to a better quality one located at the target bank.

> by electric cooler do you mean a Peltier thermoelectric cooler? Those take a huge amount of electricity and don't keep cold enough for safe storage of food. Typically they cool to 30 degrees below ambient. At 90 degrees your food is 60

There are new very efficient ones as effective and efficient as a compressor fridge.

Not cheap though.