70 AMP BATTERY ISOLATOR

Anything electric, AC or DC

Postby Leon » Thu Jun 22, 2006 5:02 am

GeorgeTelford wrote:I have to disagree about the "most practical can be achieved" practical is a relative word adding a smart regulator or B2Battery charger is easily achieved, with much better results.

What I said was "I'm talking about charging as practical as can be achieved with an automotive system. " meaning we're dealing with what was dealt to us. When I talk about the proper way to add a diode isolator, the intent is not to redesign the entire electrical system of the car but to work with what we have. Leaving out the second as changes the meaning of what I meant.

GeorgeTelford wrote:...if this wire breaks, the alternator goes into balls out mode and destroys itself (and occasionally some of the vehicle electrics !) so do be extremelycareful about anything you do with this wire.

Just for kicks I went out and disconnected that wire on my 54 Chevy and the output went up about 1.5 volts. I read some documentation on the regulators and found thar there is some internal sensing to prevent runaway in that event. I would be more concerened with someone adding wiring and not properly protecting it and causing a short and melting or burning everything. I've had to repair many home wiring jobs that caught on fire but haven't had one yet that destroyed itself from alternator runaway.
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Postby GeorgeTelford » Thu Jun 22, 2006 5:24 am

Hi Leon

On all the sites that I have ever seen/read refering to US alternators, the sensing wire cut causes the regulator to increase the voltage (up to 70 ish Volts). Also same with UK and Asutralian alternators.

But then again a 54 Chevy is equipped with a 6v Dynamo generator rather than an alternator, maybe that as something to do with it?

So are you trying to pull a fast one?

Maybe it has been converted, the usual conversion involves fitting an AC Delco alternator is this the case here Leon? Can you confirm?
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Postby Sonetpro » Thu Jun 22, 2006 6:07 am

GeorgeTelford wrote:
But then again a 54 Chevy is equipped with a 6v Dynamo generator rather than an alternator, maybe that as something to do with it?


:thinking: :thinking: :rofl: :rofl2: :laughing1: :rofl2:
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Postby PaulC » Thu Jun 22, 2006 6:43 am

George, We've had our disagreements in the past but, surely, a little levity to lighten the mood can't be taken personally. You must be aware that Australians are renowned for their sense of humour.

As for saying I would degrade myself by picking on others spelling is taking the art of humour to a dangerously low level. As you have decided to be offended by my humour I'll leave you to debate the issue with others.

Till we meet again :lol:

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Postby GeorgeTelford » Thu Jun 22, 2006 6:51 am

Hi Sonet

Here is a site showing how to convert 54 Chevy from 6v Dynamo to 12 v Alternator

http://chevy.tocmp.com/miscellaneous/5412volt.htm

Pre 1960 most all cars were fitted with dynamo/generators only on the availability of low-cost solid-state diodes did cars start to get Alternators.

Who and or what, are you actually laughing at? Have you anything constructive to add?

Hi Paul

If I didnt feel that you have a dig at every oppurtunity, whether warranted or not, I probably would have laughed it off.
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Postby Kevin A » Thu Jun 22, 2006 9:26 am

Woah, Time to cool off a bit guys. You all were doing really good, what's with all the negative remarks? :thumbdown:
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Postby GeorgeTelford » Thu Jun 22, 2006 10:14 am

Hi Kevin

I may have misread Paul's humorous retort, we are cool.

With Sonetpro I am not sure who he is laughing at, was he laughing at me in the misguided belief that I was wrong about the electrical systems on a 54 Chevy? or is he laughing at Leon? hard to tell.

Not sure either would be called for, laughing at someones error's is not nice
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Postby madjack » Thu Jun 22, 2006 10:31 am

damnitdamnitdamnit man...George do you have to take it so hard whenever someone disagrees with you and to others...do you have to argue with George just because...both side can and will be civil, I don't wanna have to send anyone to the flame wars section and shoot another electrical thread all to hell and gone again because someone has to have perfect acceptance of their statements and others have a lack sense of humor or inability to see the difference between humor or not...just lightnen up everyone, this is supposed to be fun...not contentious...this is not a contest...
madjack :(
p.s. I don't know if I expressed myself properly and was not knocking anyone, taking sides or playing favorites...I hope everyone gets mine and Kevins drift...
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Postby Leon » Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:16 pm

GeorgeTelford wrote:But then again a 54 Chevy is equipped with a 6v Dynamo generator rather than an alternator, maybe that as something to do with it?

So are you trying to pull a fast one?

Maybe it has been converted, the usual conversion involves fitting an AC Delco alternator is this the case here Leon? Can you confirm?

My 54 Chevy was converted to 12 volts years ago with a GM alternator. I am telling you I didn't perform any magic with it, but when I disconnect the sense wire it went up about 1.5 volts. I'm sorry you feel I'm trying to pull a fast one. In the hot rod community it is a common occurance to upgrade the older 6V systems to 12V and a GM alternator under the hood is a standard modification.
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Postby GeorgeTelford » Thu Jun 22, 2006 1:05 pm

Hi Jack

It wasnt anything to do with a disagreement of any electrical principe, it was the mickey take (as I saw it in Pauls post)

The check up on Leons post is also very important, people could get hurt and or damage the wiring and components of their vehicle, worst case scenario vehicle fire.

Hi Leon

OK thats cleared stage one up. Next question which wire did you remove?, what colour? and the letter code? where the wire leaves the alternator?, all this is important because the alternators that were (generally) used in the conversion usuallly had internal sensing and the 2 external wires (excluding the big battery feed wire) have nothing to do with battery sensing, one is the ign warning light and the other is to power up the alternator.

GM generally use one wire hookup (because all the sensing is on the +ve Line and the ground -ve is through the chassis) Thats wire GM alternators are prized for simple tidy wiring (especially on show cars)
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Postby Leon » Thu Jun 22, 2006 3:18 pm

GeorgeTelford wrote:Hi Jack

OK thats cleared stage one up. Next question which wire did you remove?, what colour? and the letter code? where the wire leaves the alternator?, all this is important because the alternators that were (generally) used in the conversion usuallly had internal sensing and the 2 external wires (excluding the big battery feed wire) have nothing to do with battery sensing, one is the ign warning light and the other is to power up the alternator.

GM generally use one wire hookup (because all the sensing is on the +ve Line and the ground -ve is through the chassis) Thats wire GM alternators are prized for simple tidy wiring (especially on show cars)

I didn't use a one wire alternator, I used a blue wire because it's what I had a spool of. Both the Delco and the later "CS" style alternators used a remote sense when installed in their conventional manner, the small red wire IS a regulator sense line, and the white wire is a turn-on/indicator light line. Some plugs use a pink w/black stripe and a black wire for the two functions. The one wire conversion was done primarily for the street rod industry and not for the OEM market.
I think we've probably beat his one into the ground by now.
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Postby GeorgeTelford » Thu Jun 22, 2006 5:52 pm

Hi Leon

Yes the red wire on some of those models is the sensing wire, when this senses low viltage it increases the alternators output until the voltage on the red wire shows the correct voltage, if you disconnect it then the alternator goes balls out to compensate seeing as an altrnator can push out 80 to 100 Volts " Houston we have a problem"

This is exactly what I have been saying so far, Some SI models have protection against loose connections causing this overvoltage but I can find no mention of this on CS models.
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Postby Chuck Craven » Thu Jun 22, 2006 6:05 pm

Hi Gorge took a look at there products. Well when Churchill said ”we are two country’s separated by the same language” It’s even more true today. When you said smart regulator I thought you meant the regulator in the alternator. Should have spent more time reading you post! :oops:
Their product is very nice but very pricey too. A little more than I would want to spend. Plus I would have to change to much of my setup to incorporate their ‘regulator’.
It looks as it is a DC to DC power supply, with the output set up as a 4 stage charger.
If I can find the time this winter I think I will design a smaller single battery system to replace my isolator. Should be able to savage enough parts from some old computer power supplies to make one work. Use a PIC chip for the charge controller. Should make my system a little less hands on and watchful. Thanks for the information. :thumbsup:
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Postby GeorgeTelford » Thu Jun 22, 2006 6:25 pm

Hi Chuck

I will try to post the design for a MAC (Manual Alternator Control) this will be an inteligent staged alternator charger (the inteligence being supplied by the person operating the control) parts only cost a few dollar$
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Postby ogeer3 » Tue Jun 27, 2006 12:41 pm

Chuck
If you come up with something like that I would be very interested in it too.
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