Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

OK I'm new to this and have recently fallen in love with the teardrop/benroy camper and have decided to uild me one. Here are what I have come up with... Its 4' tall, 5' wide and 10' long. Please feel free to leave and suggestions or comments.

Frame

Outside

Inside

Galley


So what's everyone think???
(Edit) I've moved the air conditioner to below the inside cabinets in the bulkhead wall, but for some reason the picture won't refresh

Where is the exchange heat and condensed drainage exiting ?

Bob

Bye the way welcome

There is a vent next to the air conditioner in the outside, and i was going to run a rubber hose from the drain to the bottom.

The plan looks well thought out. Though the axle seems pretty far back for good trailer balance. Your hitch weight may be (too) high. Your axle position is 30% of the body length. The mid range of 40% from below would be 48" from the back for a 120" long trailer.


Here are the Rules of Thumb excerpted from the Trailer Balance information in the Design Library:

Axle Position, % of body length. Reasons to pick this value:

40% (eg, 38" from back for 8ft body) A reasonable compromise value for an average teardrop.

45% (eg, 43" from back for 8ft body) Tongue box. Light or no galley. Minimum safe hitch weight wanted.

35% (eg, 34" from back for 8ft body) Well-equipped/heavy galley. Long tongue. Heavier hitch weight wanted.

That looks like a good start.

But get the balance spreadsheet out of the design library and double check your axle location. It looks too far back.

Also your hatch has thickness. It'll run into the galley cabinets if you don't allow some room there.

I had a cabinet above my head in the T@B. It was a pain in the ... head. I wouldn't put a cabinet there, but that's just me.

The 10' design ends up with a lot of flat roof, making it difficult for the rain to run off. You might want to think about adding an elliptical surface up there.

Mike...

Thank you all for the info. I'm new to all of this, that's why i posted here in order to get info from all you people that know what your talking about so i didn't jump right in asd screw something up.

OK i've made some revisions, check these out...

Frame

Outside

Inside

Not bad.

I see you insist on knocking yourself out at night. That's fine.

I don't see any room for the roof. Spars are typically 1 1/2" and the skins are typically 1/8" on the inside and a couple layers of 1/8" on the outside.

I can't quite make out that gray thing by your feet. Is that an electric heater?

Mike...

mikeschn wrote:Not bad.

I see you insist on knocking yourself out at night. That's fine.

I don't see any room for the roof. Spars are typically 1 1/2" and the skins are typically 1/8" on the inside and a couple layers of 1/8" on the outside.

I can't quite make out that gray thing by your feet. Is that an electric heater?

Mike...

I was considering a cabinet there too, only about half that size.
I wanted a place for some reading lights and speakers.
You think it would still be a head thumper?

I'm betting his "gray thing" is an AC

If you want to try head banging, without the associated pain. Why not try building a test TD & shelf with sheets or blankets?

I plan on doing this, to see how big I can make the shelf.

I've camped using a tent for many years. With the tent sloping down at about 45 degrees, to just behind my pillow. Without any problems. So don't expect to have to do without a shelf.

david

A 52" axle distance on a 120" body is quite a long way forwards - 43%. Unless that's a very heavy tongue box and you don't plan to carry much in the galley, that 52" figure might do with being checked.

Andrew

Well i used the trailer balance work sheet from the Design Library, and according to it, for an 120" tear the axle should be at 52". Is this wrong, should it be less?

What is the purpose of the rectangular box or cabinet at the foot of the bed (under the air conditioner)? Maybe, if it was eliminated you could move the bed rearward and instead build a partial, or full hight, headboard cabinet. That might eliminate the ooops I hit my head again overhead cabinet you have drawn. And be easier to reach into.

Well I was hoping to have full support under the air conditioner so that there would be no sagging. If it is not going to be a problem, then that's a great idea. A full cabinet on th front would be nice but also add more weight and I am going to pull it with a 95 Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5 4 cyl, 5 speed. I also only have a 1.25" hitch receiver instead of 2". I'm trying to keep it as light as possible but have enough room... Kinda a catch 22 you know?

ScubbaStv wrote:Well I was hoping to have full support under the air conditioner so that there would be no sagging. If it is not going to be a problem, then that's a great idea. A full cabinet on th front would be nice but also add more weight and I am going to pull it with a 95 Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5 4 cyl, 5 speed. I also only have a 1.25" hitch receiver instead of 2". I'm trying to keep it as light as possible but have enough room... Kinda a catch 22 you know?

I was planning on towing with a Wrangler too, until I started really researching their towing capacity.
You're pushing it.
I thought that the 2000 cap was because of engine torque and gearing, come to find out it's the short wheel base of the Wrangler that is the real problem.
A Wrangler cap is 2000 pounds, while a Ford Ranger is 5600.
Hell of a difference there isn't it?