Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Scott
Your so called "odd shaped doors" are very adaptable to Steve's sealing design. Just add an interior trim piece that extends 3/4" in from the frame and attach a foam seal to that trim. The inside of the door contacts the seal when closed. It should work. Clear as mud?
Dan

It's pretty clear to me!

Mike...

prohandyman wrote:Scott
Your so called "odd shaped doors" are very adaptable to Steve's sealing design. Just add an interior trim piece that extends 3/4" in from the frame and attach a foam seal to that trim. The inside of the door contacts the seal when closed. It should work. Clear as mud?
Dan

That's how I did it the first time just like a house door, just doesn't seal as well as I think it should,
I'm going to have to take it off and remount it.

When I put the foam on the 3/4" piece the foam along the hinge side smashes and pulls away?

Jst83 wrote:...................

That's how I did it the first time just like a house door, just doesn't seal as well as I think it should,
I'm going to have to take it off and remount it.

When I put the foam on the 3/4" piece the foam along the hinge side smashes and pulls away?

You probably should use rubber and not foam for your seal. Also, if the door is pinching it, then you need to do some realigning/rebuilding to get the seal on the inside of the door and not in the hinge side(hope this makes sense) so the door just closes tightly against it and does not pinch.

toypusher wrote:Also, if the door is pinching it, then you need to do some realigning/rebuilding to get the seal on the inside of the door and not in the hinge side(hope this makes sense) so the door just closes tightly against it and does not pinch.

If it's not in the hinge side how do you seal that edge?

If you have a seal all the way around on an interior frame that is smaller than your opening, then the door should just close tightly against it creating a good seal.

I meant (I guess it was not clear) that the seal should not be on the thickness of the opening. Hope that is a better explaination.

toypusher wrote:If you have a seal all the way around on an interior frame that is smaller than your opening, then the door should just close tightly against it creating a good seal.

That's probably the issue there's not enough gap between the door and the stop block for the seal and that's what's causing it to pinch and jamb up.

Need to look at my front door again

Thanks for all the info

I`m thinking of putting the seal in a rebate around the back of the door face that will butt up against a door jamb. This will the same depth as the door with a flange on the rear that goes all the way around the door. The question is has anyone tried this and will it work?

soea this sound right ??
I want to do my doors as hollow doors with a center core (mine will be square). with insolation in the gaps.
looking kinda like this

pix is of Steve B and his side walls.

then skin them adding insolation before closing top or bottom skin.

thn add windows & door knobs. then add T strips & hinges

Ron D.

I hope that this isint to late to post this under this topic, but i do have a question regarding the doors, this was posted at the top of the thread.

[b]You want to end up with a 1/8� gap all around the door, after the t molding has been installed. So your finished door size needs to be 3/8� less than the opening size, both vertically and horizontally. The easiest way to get your door to size is to rip off the appropriate amount off of the straight edges using your table saw. Hang the door with your stainless steel hinge and test for fit. The hinge should extend beyond the top and bottom of the door by ��. [/b]

the part that just isint quite clicking with me is,

is there supposed to be 3/8" in between the top of the door and the frame, and 3/8" in between the bottom of the door in the frame. for a total of 6/8"

or is it supposed to be 3/16" in between the top of the door and the frame, and 3/16" in between the bottom of the door and the frame.

thanks so much in advance for the answers!!

junemann wrote:I hope that this isint to late to post this under this topic, but i do have a question regarding the doors, this was posted at the top of the thread.

[b]You want to end up with a 1/8� gap all around the door, after the t molding has been installed. So your finished door size needs to be 3/8� less than the opening size, both vertically and horizontally. The easiest way to get your door to size is to rip off the appropriate amount off of the straight edges using your table saw. Hang the door with your stainless steel hinge and test for fit. The hinge should extend beyond the top and bottom of the door by ��. [/b]

the part that just isint quite clicking with me is,

is there supposed to be 3/8" in between the top of the door and the frame, and 3/8" in between the bottom of the door in the frame. for a total of 6/8"

or is it supposed to be 3/16" in between the top of the door and the frame, and 3/16" in between the bottom of the door and the frame.

thanks so much in advance for the answers!!

Wow, this is an old thread...

But your second guess was right. You want 3/16" gap on the top and 3/16" gap on the bottom. The T-molding is roughly 1/16", so you'll end up with an 1/8" gap on the top and an 1/8" gap on the bottom.

Hope that helps.

Mike...