Ok, HF Trailer not Finished

[sdtripper2]

Skip & Mike::)

I appreciate the pictures and both of you for explaining this critical
modification to trailers that many have and will do in the future.

Given that the goal of your modification was proper door clearance &
weight distribution for the build of a Teardrop. I would like to point to this
thread as a well documented example of how one goes about moving back
the axle. This thread surely addresses how to move the axle with pictures
to accommodate tongue weight as well as door positioning issues resolved by
this modification of the standard build of a utility trailer.

Thank you for taking the time to show me exactly what you did. I am sure
there will be others in the future that will learn from your efforts.
I will be pointing to this thread in the Trailer and Chassis Secrets forum.
T&TTT Forum Suggests 5 Trailers for New builds HERE~

This is the NOTE: that will be at the beginning of the Trailer page::thumbsup:

Note: Building a Teardrop Trailer?
You may want to consider modifying the standard utility trailer axle
position back to facilitate door clearance & accommodate tongue weight
distribution for your Teardrop trailer build. Go here to see pictures and read how to modify your new trailer by moving
the axle back.

[madjack]

IF, you have a perfectly straight axle, you can just flip it over...however most axles have just the slightest of bows and that bow ABSOLUTELY has to point upwards...if you flip it over it will point downwards...do not rely on your eyes alone...take a staight edge and lay it on the alxe to see if it has a bow in it....
madjack

Doh... Of course you're right, Jack. I even know better. I'll go crawl back in my hole now.....

Kevin...don't hide inna hole...we can't throw rocks at ya thataway ...besides I used the phrase "most axles"...I should have said "many axles"...but whether you have many or most...check 'em for the bow before the flip or you could end up with axle failure...not a pleasant occurrence...
madjack

[Nitetimes]

Jack's got it covered, sorry I didn't get back to answer the question I raised, wasn't on here most of yesterday.
The only axles I've seen that don't have a bow in them are the U shaped open axles. But there could be others. Even most of the square tube and solid axles are bowed.

[Nic]

SKIP!!!! Thanks for those pictures!!!! I can see just how it works now. Can i just use a hacksaw to make the notch?

[SkipperSue]

SKIP!!!! Thanks for those pictures!!!! I can see just how it works now. Can i just use a hacksaw to make the notch?

You sure can. I borrowed the Sawzall from work when I did mine. I cut the two notches, and while still in the vise I took a big hammer and beat the section I wanted to remove over 90 degrees and was then able to just cut it off. It wasn't hard at all. A little paint to keep the rust away and you're done!

[Nic]

Sweet!!! That sounds awsome! Its a must do! Bare with me here on my terminology......... you know how the part of the tongue that hooks to the ball? At the end point of the "a frame"? And you know how its bolted on the top side of the "A Frame" ? Well im thinking about unbolting it and putting back on under the "A Frame" to give the front of my camper a small lift. Has anyone done that? Is it ok and safe and all that?

[nikwax]

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This is the reason many people put the two channel pieces into the siderail. But do you need to? No. If you treat the teardrop body as a torsion box, and bolt the frame to the body, rather than bolt the body to the frame, then all your strength will come from the body.

Mike...

Hi Mike,


Could you explain what you mean by " bolt the frame to the body, rather than bolt the body to the frame" ????

[Nic]

Hmm i guess i did the frame on frame. I built a wooden frame and bolted it to the trailer. And built my body on my wood frame. HHMmmmm....

[SkipperSue]

I thought I should do an update to this thread, it's been almost a year already !

After all the trouble I did to move the axle over and lower the trailer, I soon decided that I would be giving up some prime space inside the TD. So I moved the axle back to it's original position. This is because I'm building the floor over the trailer and wheel wells will be needed inside. I'm still stuck with fender wells but not nearly as tall as it would have been with the trailer lowered.

A couple of pics of the fender wells.





My next Tear Drop will be a 4x8 light weight and lowered like I did here.

[Toytaco2]

This is the reason many people put the two channel pieces into the siderail. But do you need to? No. If you treat the teardrop body as a torsion box, and bolt the frame to the body, rather than bolt the body to the frame, then all your strength will come from the body.

Mike...

Mike, could you explain what is meant by a torsion box and what is the difference between "bolt the frame to the body" and "bolt the body to the frame"

Thanks. I just got the HF 1740 frame last night and am trying to decide how to set it up.

[bobhenry]

I'm gonna take a whack at this I could be wrong and usually am but here's my take on it~~~



The "torsion box" is like a turtle it does not rely on the metal frame for any part of its strength.

[mikeschn]

Wow, this is an old thread... had to dust off some cobwebs to remember what I was thinking about. Okay here's what it's about...

Remember, I am thinking about my weekender frame which was built from from 1/8" square tubing. There was a big bow in the frame from front to rear. So to fix that problem I attached the sides to the subfloor first, and then I attached the frame to the subfloor. Everything ended up as straight as could be.

Mike...

This is the reason many people put the two channel pieces into the siderail. But do you need to? No. If you treat the teardrop body as a torsion box, and bolt the frame to the body, rather than bolt the body to the frame, then all your strength will come from the body.

Mike...

Mike, could you explain what is meant by a torsion box and what is the difference between "bolt the frame to the body" and "bolt the body to the frame"

Thanks. I just got the HF 1740 frame last night and am trying to decide how to set it up.

[Toytaco2]

OK, I think this makes sense now. Sorry for digging up the old thread, but I'm trying to take in everything I can about how best to set up the frame and get on with the building. I don't think the project would turn out very good at all without this forum. Being brand new to TTT's, I have say it is the greatest.

[bobhenry]

OK, I think this makes sense now. Sorry for digging up the old thread, but I'm trying to take in everything I can about how best to set up the frame and get on with the building. I don't think the project would turn out very good at all without this forum. Being brand new to TTT's, I have say it is the greatest.

The only sorry person I know is the one that has all the answers. I have learned a ton from this forum and have many ideas yet to incorporate into my build. Jump in and share your thoughts we will all benefit and remember auntie M says send lots of pictures.

P.S. Hope they get the ice off of her internet lines soon she and uncle mike are missed.

[sschevel]

In the photo it looks like you have the springs on backwards. I see the "floating end" forward and unless I am wrong, does it not go to the rear?

Guy