Red Trailers 5x10 "teardrop trailer frame"

[TheDuke]

OK. Understand that.

Still think it might be possible to move them without quite as much work, but that thought may be due to ignorance of the real world.

After seeing your 2" dropped tongue, and thinking about a comment SaGR made about "squattiness", I thought I would try doing what you did, and also raising the roof a little, until a 5'-7" guy (me) could at least stand in the loo. All I've done is just the outline, and the pic with the CRV (for scale) and I put those two in the Album.

The proportions are better, but it's growing, growing, growing, and I'm worried about the weight.

I may have to do a detail thing on weights.

TheDuke

[mikeschn]

If you do a weight spreadsheet, I'd like to see it too!

Mike...

[jeepr]

Would it be possible to move the axle back by using their channel for the front spring bolt, just drill a new hole where you want the axle; then add your own piece of channel back farther where you want the rear spring eye?

[sdtripper2]

Mike C.

Would it be possible to move the axle back by using their channel
for the front spring bolt, just drill a new hole where you want the axle; then
add your own piece of channel back farther where you want the rear spring
eye?

I am not exactly sure of what you want to do on your axle placement
however, here is a link to see what Skip did on his trailer.
This may give you some perspective?


Go here and read the top of the thread to
see what others suggest for placement of the axle and how to do it.
Read under :
Modifying off the self trailer to accommodate the Teardrop design:

[Reddiver]

I am going to use the red trailer 5x10 . However I want to build a 5x8, just because I like the way the radius looks on a 4x8 sheet of ply. So what I am thinking is to move the rear frame member up to the the rear cross member and that would cut 17 1/4 inches off the trailer moving the wheels back another 17 1/4 inches . So you would have a trailer approx. 101 inches with the axle 62 from the front and 35 from the back.
By starting with the 5x10 rather than the 5x8 I get a better load cap. and 13 inch wheels for only like 60 bucks. more
PS had a good time in SLO now I am dying to get started.
So what do you think I am ready to order the trailer.

[Tripmaker]

I am going to use the red trailer 5x10 . However I want to build a 5x8, just because I like the way the radius looks on a 4x8 sheet of ply. So what I am thinking is to move the rear frame member up to the the rear cross member and that would cut 17 1/4 inches off the trailer moving the wheels back another 17 1/4 inches . So you would have a trailer approx. 101 inches with the axle 62 from the front and 35 from the back.
By starting with the 5x10 rather than the 5x8 I get a better load cap. and 13 inch wheels for only like 60 bucks. more
PS had a good time in SLO now I am dying to get started.
So what do you think I am ready to order the trailer.

Reconsider your thoughts. If I were to build again I would have a custom trailer frame welded locally. I Installed a torsion axle on my Red Trailer with 14" trailer wheels. The wheels look better and the trailer pulls like a dream. The only problem is I have too much money invested in the trailer and it is only bolted together. A custom frame would be less expensive and stronger. I don't know what the licensing process is in California, but one advantage the Red Trailer does have, is that it comes with a Certificate of Origin, making registration easier.

As for the size there are many 10' teardrops out there and the profiles look as good as the 8'. I would make space your deciding factor before appearance. But if you will be using it by yourself and space is not an issue, an 8' teardrop is less expensive to build as 4x8 material is cheaper and easier to obtain than 10'.

Best of luck with whatever you decide. Now start building and post lots of pictures. The pictures are the price you pay for the help you will get from everyone on this forum.

[mikeschn]

My biggest argument against the 5x10 is that it's already welded. So you can't move stuff. The axle is stuck where they stuck it... So be sure that what you really want.

Mike...

[TheDuke]

Mike:
Although you're aware I'm still months away from starting my teardrop (Habitat I), I've settled (at least I think I have) on using the 5x10 frame you did in the ET, but with a Torflex axle to get it lower. But here's the question that's bothering me: How much problem would it be to saw off the spring hangers, so I can weld on the Torflex bracket? I noticed a nice portable metal saw in one of your pics. Would it handle such a large sawing job? If so, what's the brand, model, and supplier?

But then, I had another idea. Why not just turn the frame upside down, and incorporate the (now on the top side) bracket into the floor and wall structure (no metal cutting). I assume the tongue structure just bolts on, so maybe a few extra holes, right? Or is this just a pipe dream?

TheDuke

[Jules Martel]

wondering why the tongue are so far extended nowadays, read a while ago that it reduces swagging, but woudnt it do the complete opposite, since the tear, by beeing further, is more exposed to the air movement of the tow vehicle? i mean why not a boat trailer while youre at it, at least youd have sealed bearings

theres got a be a perfect distance, maybe the size of the tow vehicle matters in the equation,

but than if we relate to nascar racing, that be bumber to bumper

[mikeschn]

You could flip the trailer upside down to ignore the spring hangers, but then you'd have to cut off the tongue hangers, and weld them on the other side.


If it were me, I would probably just get a die grinder and grind off the welds off the spring hanger.

My portaband is a Harbor Freight special.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=47840

BTW, all my photos are in my album here, if you want to see if you missed anything important...
http://www.mikenchell.com/Generic_ET_Photo_Album/

Mike...

Mike:
Although you're aware I'm still months away from starting my teardrop (Habitat I), I've settled (at least I think I have) on using the 5x10 frame you did in the ET, but with a Torflex axle to get it lower. But here's the question that's bothering me: How much problem would it be to saw off the spring hangers, so I can weld on the Torflex bracket? I noticed a nice portable metal saw in one of your pics. Would it handle such a large sawing job? If so, what's the brand, model, and supplier?

But then, I had another idea. Why not just turn the frame upside down, and incorporate the (now on the top side) bracket into the floor and wall structure (no metal cutting). I assume the tongue structure just bolts on, so maybe a few extra holes, right? Or is this just a pipe dream?

TheDuke

[TheDuke]

Tongue hangers, eh? Always something, right? Oh well, back to sanity.

[Reddiver]

Near as I can figure by putting the axle under the spring rather than on top would lower the trailer about 3 inches is that about right? I often camp in unimproved campgrounds . I think I am going to build on top of the spring for more ground clearance.

[mikeschn]

Putting the axle under the springs will raise the trailer 3" ...

Here's my before and after photos...

Here the axle is under the springs...


Here the axle is on top of the springs...


Mike...