Northern Tool vs. Dexter torsion axles

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Northern Tool vs. Dexter torsion axles

Postby WarPony » Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:32 pm

I am planning a new lightweight trailer and want to try using torsion axles. The question I have is, does anyone know if the rubber part in the Northern Tools' axle is replaceable or not? The Dexter ones are and they have a better selection, as far as different weights their axles hold.

I don't know, seems like the weight savings may not be worth the price of a torsion axle. I keep waffling back and forth between torsion and leaf springs.
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Postby prohandyman » Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:57 pm

W-P
I am in the same dilemma. I have a heavy weight torsion (5000#) that I would like to use, but don't know if I can change the rating very easy. If not, I will be in the market for a new one. But I don't know much about the axles you are looking at. The primary reason I'm looking at torsion is to get the trailer lower to the ground.
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Postby Arne » Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:25 pm

call them and ask.
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Postby Podunkfla » Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:32 pm

I don't know how the others are made; but, I found the factory tour of how these (rather expensive?) torsion axles are made quite interesting:

http://www.inlandrv.com/tours/axle-plan ... iefing.htm

And... this pic from Dexter leads me to think they are made the same way?

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Which makes me wonder how you would go about replacing the rubber yourself? I'm more curious than ever now... :thinking:
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Postby Nitetimes » Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:59 pm

I don't believe you can actually replace them. They are machine pressed in.
And there really isn't much weight savings with torsion axles, them babies are pretty heavy.

prohandyman- 5k????, the axle itself weighs more than the tear!!!! I can't image being able to de-rate that even down to 2k. Even if they would do it it would probably cost more than a new one.
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Postby Podunkfla » Thu Dec 28, 2006 10:19 pm

Nitetimes wrote:I don't believe you can actually replace them. They are machine pressed in.
And there really isn't much weight savings with torsion axles, them babies are pretty heavy.

prohandyman- 5k????, the axle itself weighs more than the tear!!!! I can't image being able to de-rate that even down to 2k. Even if they would do it it would probably cost more than a new one.


I think you're right... Plus, I think the cheaper ones are "injection molded" with urethane? And, you sure couldn't repair them easily??? :(
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Postby Arne » Thu Dec 28, 2006 10:34 pm

The rubber inserts in torsion axles are shaped and frozen with liquid nitrogen. They are inserted and allowed to thaw and expand to their original shape (I should say, they attempt to expand to their original shape).. They are not molded in place nor pressed in... they slid in like... well, you get the idea...

http://www.inlandrv.com/tours/axle-plant/deepfreeze.htm
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Postby Podunkfla » Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:08 am

Arne wrote:The rubber inserts in torsion axles are shaped and frozen with liquid nitrogen. They are inserted and allowed to thaw and expand to their original shape (I should say, they attempt to expand to their original shape).. They are not molded in place nor pressed in... they slid in like... well, you get the idea...

http://www.inlandrv.com/tours/axle-plant/deepfreeze.htm


That is how Henschen Axle does it, and I assume Dexter makes theirs too; but, I do not think all "rubber" torsions axles are made that way. As I said above, I think some of the cheaper ones are injection molded with something like urethane? I'm still working on finding out exactly how the NorthernTool ones are made. I have actually seen the insides of some that had four round steel "pins" surrounded by what looked like molded in place rubber... but I don't know who made them.
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Postby Geron » Fri Dec 29, 2006 5:56 am

Northern tool axles made by this AMERICAN company
http://www.reliabletool.com/home.htm

Gives no info on how they are made

Compared to Flexride they have 3 mounting holes instead of four.

I'm wondering about "alignment" difficulties with half axles and opposed to full axles. Would they have to be mounted "just right". The full axle has built in alignment and just had to be mounted at an accurate 90 degrees.

Edited: sorry that URL was a dead end.
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Postby Podunkfla » Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:44 am

That's odd... this link works for me?

http://www.reliabletool.com/

But they don't show that they make or sell the small bold on torsion axles? Just complete axles? :o
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Postby WarPony » Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:59 am

Geron wrote:I'm wondering about "alignment" difficulties with half axles and opposed to full axles. Would they have to be mounted "just right".


Yeah, I gave that some thought, too. A full axle would be easier to get pointed down the road straight. I remember when I built the frame on my TTT, it was not square but I made sure the wheels were in alignment. I measured from the point of the tongue to the front of each hub. When the two measurements were the same, that's where it was mounted.
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Postby Arne » Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:12 am

If torsion stubs are used, bolt hole size is critical.... no matter how tight you think they are, they will move unless the hole size matches the bolt size. A couple of tack welds would solve that problem.... A straight piece of angle iron could be used for a straight edge, then clamp the stubs in place for drilling and/or welding... I would not trust measuring unless what you are measuring from is truly straight, and you are sure you can get it within 1/64th of an inch..... that might seem tight, but over 5 feet, that 1/64th can turn into 1/2 inch..... better to use a straight edge...

For those of you have have only measured and have had no problems with tire wear, good for you....Thought I'd get that out of the way before the "well, I only measured and have not had any problems in 100,000 miles of towing and am still using the original tires with no signs of wear" notes started...
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Postby angib » Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:33 am

Geron wrote:I'm wondering about "alignment" difficulties with half axles and opposed to full axles. Would they have to be mounted "just right".

I think this is one of those "it must be really difficult, because I haven't done it before" deals.

Lining up half-axles does need to be done with the same sort of care that you would apply to lining up a full axle, but it isn't rocket science. I've never heard of anyone getting it wrong and it is the standard way to make small trailers over here.

Which I think means that getting it a little bit wrong doesn't matter in the slightest - any more than it does on a full axle. Full axles just provide you with less opportunities to get it a little bit wrong!

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Postby Geron » Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:48 pm

angib wrote:
Geron wrote:I'm wondering about "alignment" difficulties with half axles and opposed to full axles. Would they have to be mounted "just right".

I think this is one of those "it must be really difficult, because I haven't done it before" deals.

Lining up half-axles does need to be done with the same sort of care that you would apply to lining up a full axle, but it isn't rocket science. I've never heard of anyone getting it wrong and it is the standard way to make small trailers over here.

Which I think means that getting it a little bit wrong doesn't matter in the slightest - any more than it does on a full axle. Full axles just provide you with less opportunities to get it a little bit wrong!

Andrew


Most comforting! Thanks.

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Postby Gerdo » Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:10 pm

WP, I'm thinking that my Ultralite will be built on a HF frame. I will be removing any unnessary metal form the frame. (ie the back half behind the springs). The TD body (Torsion Box) will carry the weight. I think that will be hard to beat (lack of weight)
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