The saga continues: I had some time left today (after I converted my Craftsman generator's mobile cart-leftover after I mounted the genny in my trailer- to a cart for the Northern 125 Flux Welder), so I got my newly bought 80 grit flapper disc and attached it to my angle grinder, and set to work at the mis-welded experimental pushbar project, again. First note: I love the flapper disc! Never used one before, and I like it better than the grinding disc for removing and smoothing metal (grinder disc jumps around and hard to handle). I took out my BFHagain, and really whacked the assembly hard, in several locations, harder than last weeks test. One weld did break loose, the collar holding the hitch ball in the pipe. So I started grinding (flapping?) the slag and flux and spatter from the piece, then using a wire wheel in my drill to get as much of the rest as clean as I could. I exposed some cracks and seams in the welds (especially around the seat of the chrome ball and the cast iron collar). The chrome/ galvanized /cast iron mix is not an easy weld to make on a first attempt! I had not prepped the various metals correctly, nor had properly beveled the edges, nor gotten the heat and wire feed speeds correct last try. After todays clean-up, I tried less wire feed speed, more heat, less distance, more time on weld. Since I had already burnt off the zinc coating last week, I could get closer to the piece, and could actually see what I was doing. I could gauge the lead of the wire needed (1/2" worked best), the wire feed speed to keep it there (6.5 on my dial), the right heat (on high, and kept in one spot until it glowed red, then moved on). I see that rounded surfaces may be a bit more challenging than straight and flat ones, especially for a novice, but I pressed onward. I re-smoothed the new welds, that were much better than my first attempts, with less spatter and less globs/air pockets to grind away. I also drilled out the screwhole that secured the collar to the pipe previously (in addition to a poor spot weld), and drilled thru into the core of the hitch ball's stem. At this point, after I saw only a couple of points to reweld, I did a deep plugweld into the drilled hole, feeding much wire into the glowing abyss, for a long time. After a break, to let things cool a bit, I used the flapper and wire wheel for the third time today. Not a professional result, nor even a good amateur's, but for a complete noob at this...I was satisfied for an hour+ work. And the BFH didn't dislodge anything this time.working on it wrote:... so here is a pic of the un-chipped, un-cleaned, un-ground welds on my experimental pushbar:I'll clean it up and grind it down next weekend, to see if it can be usable. Gonna be a long learning curve.
Redneck Teepee wrote:Get your self some good twist lock connectors and make sure all of your other connections are good and solid, loose connections produce heat and eratic welding temps which is the last thing you need while learning to weld. Your stinger appears to be missing one of the insolators on the jaw so be sure and replace it too.
KCStudly wrote:Nice old buzz box. Should last you a lifetime.
You should be able to get a new bung for that lead at any dedicated welding supply (Maine Oxy, Airgas, etc.). Make sure you have all of the proper PPE, too; proper helmet, heavy gloves, a long sleeve heavy cotton shirt buttoned up at the neck and cuffs (minimum, a welding jacket is preferred), a slag chipping hammer, and safety glasses.
If you are welding inside your garage, be prepared for smoke (stick welding as very dirty) and you may want to put a thin sheet of steel down on the floor under your work; hot splatter will spawl your concrete.
6013 rod is good for less than perfect steel (rust). 7018 is stronger, and some say makes a nicer looking bead, but I have more trouble initiating an arc with it. YMMV. 3/32 diameter is probably a good starting point for most light trailer needs.
Redneck Teepee wrote:KC is spot on with his post and welding rod choices, I would leave the 7018 alone until you are an accomplised welder. 7018 has what they call better "Ductility" simply put won't crack as easy, but you have to be able to lay it down properly and have a sharp or keen eye to tell the difference between the slag and the molten metal while consumming the sides of the piece's you are joining.
Redneck Teepee wrote:The twist lock I am refering to is for you welding leads, tweeco makes very good products and should suit you well on these plus a stinger replacement, 250 amp rateing for all will do just fine. Stick with the 6011 and 6013 rods for learning and once you feel like you got it down pretty good the better rod's are 6010 (AKA P-5) and 7018 (AKA LH-70 or low hydrogen) LH-70 should only be used to fill and cap... AFTER...you have filled butted joints with the 60 series rods and or heli-arc process. I could go on all day but I don't think at this time it would make any sense to you. Practice, practice, practice along with maybe a night class at the JC will make you a better welder...did I mention pratice?
jseyfert3 wrote:Redneck Teepee wrote:The twist lock I am refering to is for you welding leads, tweeco makes very good products and should suit you well on these plus a stinger replacement, 250 amp rateing for all will do just fine. Stick with the 6011 and 6013 rods for learning and once you feel like you got it down pretty good the better rod's are 6010 (AKA P-5) and 7018 (AKA LH-70 or low hydrogen) LH-70 should only be used to fill and cap... AFTER...you have filled butted joints with the 60 series rods and or heli-arc process. I could go on all day but I don't think at this time it would make any sense to you. Practice, practice, practice along with maybe a night class at the JC will make you a better welder...did I mention pratice?
Ah, you mean between the welding leads and the welder? That would be pricey, there are 15 female connectors on the welder because it does not have a switch to select voltage like most other welders I've seen, you have to move the weld lead from one plug to another.
And I'll practice a lot. Strike up a good relationship with the local scrap yard I suppose. Buy, practice, sell back once I'm done. Taking a class won't work at the moment, but I'll look into it.
Well now that you said 15 connectors I went back and studied the welder pictures you posted and you have different plug ins for different amperages (no fine tuning) you are stuck with what it puts out at that port. As far as the missing connector that you need they possibly could still make it but doubtful, I you have a lathe you can turn one out or any machine shop can for you.[/quote]
Since the other is good, I could put a new twist lock connector for the ground wire and use the good old connector for the stinger wire. Otherwise I don't have a lathe, so I will look into a machine shop.
[quote="KCStudly wrote:The plug is less important. Some people like to use the same as a dryer plug because most people have one and it makes the welder "portable".
Not familiar with that rod.
Scrap yard is a great place to get scraps and clean metal, too. They don't always have the size you want for a project, but for learning it is the perfect source. Get to know them, be friendly. Remember, even if the place looks like a dump (... or a gear head's playground) it is a business. Let them help you, check in at the desk and tell them what you are looking for.
Unlikely that you will still be able to get a part for that old stinger, but maybe. More likely you will have to replace it; shouldn't be a big deal.
On the sheet metal for floor: doesn't have to be thick, .040 - .060 would be plenty; and it doesn't have to be that big either 3 or 4 feet square. Big enough that you don't have to move it all the time, but small enough that you can move it easily when you need to. Once you get some practice you probably won't drop that much lava (unless you are trying something awkward like overhead), but while you are learning it will be good to have. If you do any cutting with an oxyacetylene torch, "don't leave home without it".
The little bb's aren't friendly. They'll melt your shoe laces, burn thru non-leather shoes and find a way to get to your skin. If you get in to any awkward positions, wearing foam ear plugs is a good idea, otherwise it is better to be able to hear the electrode.
Personally I'm not a fan of the auto-darkening hoods. Supposedly they have gotten better over the years, but I have been flashed by them before in a couple of situations. That and I still try to flip them down when they already are, so I just use a standard flip helmet. I guess that makes me old school... or just old.
jseyfert3 wrote:Are the foam earplugs for awkward positions to keep hot droppings from falling in your ear canal?
KCStudly wrote:jseyfert3 wrote:Are the foam earplugs for awkward positions to keep hot droppings from falling in your ear canal?
Yes, and slag that you chip off.
The better you get with stick and out of position welding, the less likely you will be to have a bead roll out on you, and your slag will start coming off in nice big long pieces, but it is still a dirty process. MIG welding is a little better because there is no slag to speak of, but you can still get splatter.
TIG is my preference because it is so much cleaner and controlled; easy to see what the bead is doing and make it do what you want it to. Of course it is more expensive to get started with the equipment and is a little slower than MIG, but to me the advantages are worth it.
Return to Trailer and Chassis Secrets
Users browsing this forum: Mel's Way and 1 guest