Adapting HF trailer for center drop leg jack

[ukewarrior]

So, I have had a HF trailer that I use for a utility trailer with the side swing down jack.
It works, but I can see where it could be problematic if used on a HF based Tear.

So, I have also seen where folks go to a welder and get a plate welded to support a center drop leg jack.
This is very good it seems.

However, I'd like to know what folks think and if anyone has gotten this unit from Harbor Freight and used it on the 'typical' 1720 HF 4x8 trailer?
Here's the unit:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-a-frame-trailer-coupler-66951.html

Will it fit? I would think you'd need to drill some more holes to match the bolt on pattern of the coupler mount that comes with the trailer.
This seems much easier and less expensive than going to the welder.
With a coupon, this unit would only be $16.

Finally, HF has many drop leg jacks, but no Wheels adapters for it that I can find. Can anyone shed some light on that?

[KCStudly]

The standard 'A' coupler you linked to is based on an industry standard angle of 50 deg. IIRC the HF trailer tongue is not built exactly to this standard angle, although it is similar. It has been done by people welding it on, but I am skeptical about the mismatch because you want there to be intimate connection at dry fit whether welding or bolting.

My suggestion would be to pick one up, test fit it yourself, decide if you are okay with it (you are the only one who can make the final decision on your safety and the safety of those that will be around you). If you don't like how it fits, take it back for a refund.

[Redneck Teepee]

KC is correct on an exact fit, also remember those types will only raise so far up and seem to always drag/catch and get bent over a period of time. By adding a wheel or landing gear it will hang even lower unless you want to take it off and on constantly...........Just my 2 cents worth

[tony.latham]

also remember those types will only raise so far up and seem to always drag/catch and get bent over a period of time.

Redneck's correct. Here's how I deal with the issue:



That's three pieces of black pipe, primed and painted. It still leaves about 3" of jack below the frame but I'm concious of it when pulling into a boondock hidey-hole to camp.

Tony

[len19070]

Heres that exact part on a HF trailer. No welding, just bolted on. I've done this several times on my trailers over the years using 6 bolts, 2 through the top and 1 through the side (each side). True the angle isn't quite Perfect I compensate for this with Washers on the side bolts. And yes, you have to drill out for the bolts.

This is all done for about $40 (with Jack and A Frame Coupler) and really not even that much as you would have to buy a more expensive bolt on Jack if not done. Its going to affect your Ball Height a bit but this set up looks so much cleaner than the "Harbor Freight Knuckle" and a Jack bolted to the side.









Happy Trails

Len

[ukewarrior]

Len,

Is there a wheel you can temporarily attach to the leg if you want to roll your unit around?

[len19070]

Len,

Is there a wheel you can temporarily attach to the leg if you want to roll your unit around?

That wheel on the Green Trailer was something I had laying around that just happened to fit. You couldn't use it putting the trailer on the Ball of the truck because it wouldn't go down far enough. And it was a real PITA to get off as well.

Happy Trails

Len

[KennethW]

Thanks guys I am going to use the HF coupler and jack with 4 1/2" redneck riser (3 pc of pipe)
I am going to push the coupler back a little to line up the existing hole in the coupler and the front bolt holes on the tongue.then drill the holes for the other 4 holes. So the new coupler will be using the same 6 bolts the old coupler bracket used.