My Evil Plan

[MuddyWolf]

Hello Everyone,

After years of dreaming I am finally ready to build my first TD. I have owned a couple of conversion vans and a motor home in the past. But I found they were too big for me. I am currently getting rid of a 97 Grand Cherokee with 235K miles because its my 3rd vehicle and I don't want to put more money in it. But I need something to haul things in from time to time. And I want to get up off the ground when I go camping. I need something small and light that I can pull with either my Mazda Protege or my Mazda Miata. And I LOVE the look of a TD. My other major goal for this build is to keep the costs down. I don't want to go over $2500. And it will take a little while to put even that together.

Toward that end I have purchased a HF 4' x 8' foldable trailer. My next step is to have it welded. I can do a bit of stick welding myself but this being automotive I would prefer to have someone TIG it. Meanwhile I'm planning my build.

After looking over quite a few images I have decided that something like this would be optimal:



As I envision it there would be no doors. Entry would be through the back where the galley would normally be. Having no door will make the build easier and less expensive. The rear hatch will also be handy when using the trailer for hauling building or other materials. This design also increases head room and, of course, greatly increases the usable enclosed space. It provides a kind of private living room where I can dress or just relax out of the sun or rain. Or use the pot.

I'm considering increasing the size to 5' wide (for a queen size bed) and maybe increasing the length to as much as 10'. But weight is a concern with my very limited towing capacity. And my wife isn't likely to accompany me very often. Your opinions are invited.

I want to build a woody. And I would like a sliding front window and a skylight in the lid. And bigger windows.

What do you folks think about this basic design? Am I overlooking anything?

[KennethW]

I see no need in welding the trailer together.
The galley wall is a support wall that holds the back square. The design you are looking at is a wild goose design. A lot harder to build then a standard teardrop and a lot heaver. If you are just One person camping a small 4x9 teardrop should be big enough. Why give up the galley? Don't you eat. The galley make meal time very fast and easy. No set up or take down. A door is not that hard. Cut a hole with a router. A pair of gate hinges. Some weather striping and a inside lip on the door opening.
Crawling on your hands and knees wouldn't be fun.
Just some thoughts!!

[MuddyWolf]

Thank you for your reply Ken!


I've read about these HF bolt togethers losing parts going down the road. And needing constant checking for loose bolts.

A galley would get in the way of using the trailer to haul things. I moved everything from a pool table to an above ground pool in my Grand Cherokee but that has to go.

Say I want to move a sofa or a bed. I can't get that through a side door. I'd have to rent a U haul. But throw a table in the back with a sink and a camp stove and such (as shown in the pic) and it can easily be lifted out of the way. And easily set up at the camp site.



As for crawling on hands and knees with that lid open I'm looking at a minimum 6' ceiling towards the back where that roll up window is. It would be more like getting into bed from the foot rather than the side. Something I'm used to since my side of the bed at home was against the wall till we got a bigger house. I might need a step in the back of the trailer though.

What makes a goose more difficult to build? I'm just learning. I'm wanting to keep things pretty simple. I'm thinking standard TD with the entry in the back and a snap on tent.

[MtnDon]

Thank you for your reply Ken!


I've read about these HF bolt togethers losing parts going down the road. And needing constant checking for loose bolts.

Loctite or substitute nylok nuts

Either one may be easier / cheaper than welding and will provide long term bolt security. There's even green threadlocker for post assembly use. More than one way to 'skin a goose'

[KCStudly]

The complication of the Wild Goose design comes with the drop out floor that lets you stand on the ground under the rear hatch... which also adds weight and potential water intrusion points. Not sure how the original design ties the drop floor back in to the main floor for travel, but it may not be suitable for heavy cargo loads; something you may want to look into further before committing.

Same thing with all of the windows; they add weight, cost, complication, potential leak points, time to the build and eat up wall space that could be used for storage cabinets. Windows on curved front and roof add even more complication, weight and work. Front mounted windows need to be protected from stones and other road hazards, so more weight, material cost and build time to construct a protective cover.

Most people concede that woodies should be stored indoors.

Not trying to discourage you, just trying to inform. It's all been done, some to very fine levels, so again not to discourage, you could do it, too; but you are stating conflicting goals. Simply, light and inexpensive vs. complex, heavy and expensive. It's all relative. People will say that they got a deal on 'this', or scrounged 'that', and it didn't really cost that much or take that much time, but it did, relatively speaking.

What ever you decide to do, plan on it taking longer and costing more, but make sure to enjoy yourself... and post plenty of pics.

[aggie79]

Thank you for your reply Ken!


I've read about these HF bolt togethers losing parts going down the road. And needing constant checking for loose bolts.

Loctite or substitute nylok nuts

Either one may be easier / cheaper than welding and will provide long term bolt security. There's even green threadlocker for post assembly use. More than one way to 'skin a goose'

I had folding HF trailer for years that was used and abused, and it never came apart. I did throw away all of the bolts that came with it and used new grade 5 bolts with Nylock nuts.

When assembling the trailer be sure to clean out material on the bearings. That stuff the looks like grease is just a rust preventative. After they're clean pack the bearings with a good high quality grease.

[Graniterich]

I have also had HF trailers for years as well. They ship with nylock nuts and have never had one loosen.

[MuddyWolf]

Is it possible that the instructions that the bolts need to be checked and tightened frequently is a relic of an earlier age before they went to the nylock nuts?

[KCStudly]

In a word, lawyers. They would never take that out as it indemnifies them (...to a certain degree... another lawyer could wiggle out of it some how).