Shocks?

[dangerranger]

I notice that most here don't put shocks on their trailer. Is it just added weight? a waste of time? I'm drawing up a custom frame for a 10 ft Wanderer and would shocks be a good thing to have? Or just extra weight and time that gains very little? Thanks Eric

[Sparksalot]

You can blame the kit trailer heritage from much of that. I've contemplated adding them more than once. With mine, I'd opt for brakes instead, for those trips into the Rockies and such.

If you're building your own frame, add the shocks, there's effectively no penalty to do it at this point.

[dangerranger]

Thanks! I have another question. The completed Wanderer shouldn't weigh over 1500 lbs dry. I have some 2x2" steel tubing in the right lengths that is 14 gauge thickness. The wanderer was designed to sit on a Harbor Freight frame and hang over. I'm building the front and rear cross members to extend out to the walls and be under the front and rear walls. Do you think that will be too light for frame rails? I may also extend a support arm out under the door area. I don't believe it will be any heavier than the Harbor Freight frame But will it be too light? The tongue and supports will be a heavier wall material. Thanks Eric

[Squigie]

Shocks are good.
If you can incorporate them, you won't be disappointed.

The only reasons my build will not be using shocks are:
1. I'm using Timbren suspension. The design is fairly shock-absorbing to begin with.
2. I'm using Timbren suspension. Adding shock mounts is more trouble than its worth.

But for any leaf spring suspension (and maybe even torsion axles), you can bet your butt that I'd be adding shocks. Trailer bounce is one of my oldest enemies. I must strike him down at every opportunity.

[Sparksalot]

Thanks! I have another question. The completed Wanderer shouldn't weigh over 1500 lbs dry. I have some 2x2" steel tubing in the right lengths that is 14 gauge thickness. The wanderer was designed to sit on a Harbor Freight frame and hang over. I'm building the front and rear cross members to extend out to the walls and be under the front and rear walls. Do you think that will be too light for frame rails? I may also extend a support arm out under the door area. I don't believe it will be any heavier than the Harbor Freight frame But will it be too light? The tongue and supports will be a heavier wall material. Thanks Eric

That's a whole 'nother thing altogether. You can probably get more input with a separate thread on the topic, plus having a sketch or two for illustration.

[tony.latham]

I notice that most here don't put shocks on their trailer. Is it just added weight? a waste of time? I'm drawing up a custom frame for a 10 ft Wanderer and would shocks be a good thing to have? Or just extra weight and time that gains very little? Thanks Eric

I don’t install shocks because torsion axles don’t need them.

Tony


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[coyote]

My teardrop has them (Tractor trailer cab shocks) and I did not put them on the Scotty I rebuilt. I notice zero difference. And it is leaf spring under both, not torsion. I'm no pro, just my experience. Coyote

[RJ Howell]

I don’t install shocks because torsion axles don’t need them.
Tony

I tend to agree. Proper frame and suspension not much need.. I do see bump stops though. I wouldn't want the torsion to bottom out or the axle to wack the frame. Now with leaf spring I might debate the want (not need) for. One major plus for torsion is the axle-less system. I like the idea behind it, just not certain there's enough in there to do the deed as we wish it to do.. Something 'I' need to look at deeper.

My intent is something a little more Overlander Style where a side is going to carry a lot of weight at times. I don't do Rock Crawling to say, yet there are times I need to. I'm looking at clearance (axle-less) and what these torsion units could do (with a bump stop in mind). I've looked at Sumo's and not so sure required for my needs/wants.

I guess the question surrounds how to reduce the earthquake we cause while towing our units around. I don't see shock absorbers as doing the trick. to some point yes, yet truly how much? You're still going to wrap you breakables, and nothing you left on the counter will still be there (in place).

Just MHO..

[tony.latham]

I wouldn't want the torsion to bottom out or the axle to wack the frame.

I don't know how you'd put a bump-stop on a torsion axle. They can't hit the frame since the swing arm is outside the frame.





Tony

[Squigie]

I think a bump stop for a torsion axle would require an arm mounted to the frame, extending out to where it would stop the arm from over-traveling.

Although I'd like to say it seems like overkill, I must say that I wish my current tent trailer had them.
It is on its third axle since new. (Lots of receipts, invoices, and service records with owners manual. )

The original axle failed in 1998 (6 years old). Don't know how, but the right side failed and dropped the frame onto the tire.

The replacement axle failed in 2003 (5 years old). Do know a bit about that one, and the right side failed and dropped the frame onto the tire.

Nope. Didn't accidentally repeat myself there. It suffered the same breakage twice.
I suspect that both previous owners habitually overloaded the trailer (only 250 lbs of payload to work with, including water, propane, and battery - and its heavily biased to one side).

If there had been a bump stop, there wouldn't have been a blow-out at 65 mph, when the frame (technically the step mount bolts) tore the tire to pieces just moments after the torsion suspension failed.


Then again, I wouldn't own that trailer if it hadn't been available for $1,200, because it had a busted up inner fender and the cabinet over the fender, a floor ripped to bits, and tire residue all over the floor. Without the damage, it was easily worth $4,500 more.
Call it a draw...?

It does worry me, though. The right side of the trailer is sagging about 1.5" lower now than when I bought it (~5 years ago), even though it's loaded with less gear.

[RJ Howell]

I wouldn't want the torsion to bottom out or the axle to wack the frame.

I don't know how you'd put a bump-stop on a torsion axle. They can't hit the frame since the swing arm is outside the frame.





Tony

It would require a outrigger of sorts, yet could be done. I see it as one of the cons of torsion that can be changed, with a clever mind that is.

[tony.latham]

I see it as one of the cons of torsion that can be changed...

They kinda have their own internal stop. The military went with Dexter Torflex on all of their utility trailers. No bump stops.

But weld one up. Maybe you're on to something.

T

[RJ Howell]

I see it as one of the cons of torsion that can be changed...

They kinda have their own internal stop. The military went with Dexter Torflex on all of their utility trailers. No bump stops.

But weld one up. Maybe you're on to something.

T

Tony, talk some more about torsion, please. My thoughts are there is a stop (of sorts) built in. Yet I don't know for certain.
If there's not, then it seems you'd be over twisting (torquing) the bands to the extent of damage. Most Overlander's I read about use spring suspension with a stop. I really like the axle-less torsion system for the clearance it allows. I'm researching a suspension for my Ultimate Build.

"The military went with Dexter Torflex on all of their utility trailers."
That's interesting!

[tony.latham]

I see it as one of the cons of torsion that can be changed...

They kinda have their own internal stop. The military went with Dexter Torflex on all of their utility trailers. No bump stops.

But weld one up. Maybe you're on to something.

T

Tony, talk some more about torsion, please. My thoughts are there is a stop (of sorts) built in. Yet I don't know for certain.
If there's not, then it seems you'd be over twisting (torquing) the bands to the extent of damage. Most Overlander's I read about use spring suspension with a stop. I really like the axle-less torsion system for the clearance it allows. I'm researching a suspension for my Ultimate Build.

"The military went with Dexter Torflex on all of their utility trailers."
That's interesting!

I think you are chasing a problem that doesn’t exist. Somewhere on Dexter’s site it shows the up and down travel distance of their Torflex axles.

T

[tony.latham]