Refurbishing and modifying an old 5x8 trailer

[zephyr21]

Hi all,
This is my first build so apologies in advance for all the questions/lengthy post! This post is all about the trailer, and I want to be as thorough as possible before building the body to get the frame done right. I was able to get this one for free since the owner didn't want to fool with stripping the rotten decking off and fixing it up, so I figured it would help me get started on a cheap build! Fortunately, I have a friend who is great at welding to help me with frame additions/repairs.
-At first glance: Does anyone see anything that needs attention/repairs?
-Welding: I am planning on adding another piece of angle iron toward the front where there's a larger gap to increase durability. Also plan on welding some steps in front of the fenders. I have a toolbox that came with it (4' x 19" x 17.5") that I would like to put on the trailer's tongue. However the tongue seems too short so I am thinking of cutting it and adding an extension. Does anyone see any issues with that? Is a 5x8 trailer long enough for my girlfriend and 5'11" self if we are wanting a galley in the back?
-We are planning to take it off-road, mostly forest service and mountain passes, but nothing crazy like rock crawling. Should we upgrade suspension from leaf springs?
-Tires: They were flat and sat that way for so long they are warped and dry rotted. 16" rims but skinny tire. Thinking of upgrading to better wheels and tires if I can find a good deal. with 2.5" of space between current tire and fenders, what's the largest tire I can get away with? I'm open to cutting off these fenders and adding new ones.
-What should I do for weather/rust proofing?
-Wiring: wiring seems to be in OK condition but the standard pin connection has been crushed. Should I start from scratch and go to 7-way plug?
-Tongue Jack: Weld has cracked and it sits sideways. Planning to cut it off and add a new jack. Any suggestions/brands? Would be nice to have one with a wheel I suppose.
-It would be nice to use the trailer outside of having the camper on it. Has anyone made a build where their body is removable?
- I think I covered everything. Thanks for taking the time to read! I am open to any and all suggestions. There is a lot to learn and this forum seems very helpful!

Link to Imgur album of trailer photos as it currently stands. https://imgur.com/a/lzWeXxI

[saltydawg]

Hi all,

-At first glance: Does anyone see anything that needs attention/repairs?

your pics are at the bottom of my reply

-Welding: I am planning on adding another piece of angle iron toward the front where there's a larger gap to increase durability. Also plan on welding some steps in front of the fenders. I have a toolbox that came with it (4' x 19" x 17.5") that I would like to put on the trailer's tongue. However the tongue seems too short so I am thinking of cutting it and adding an extension. Does anyone see any issues with that? Is a 5x8 trailer long enough for my girlfriend and 5'11" self if we are wanting a galley in the back?

However the tongue seems too short so I am thinking of cutting it and adding an extension. Does anyone see any issues with that? Is a 5x8 trailer long enough for my girlfriend and 5'11" self if we are wanting a galley in the back?

Just make sure its done strong enough, extending a tongue is fine but it takes stronger or more metal the longer it gets, even more so if you do brakes. I would add a support where there is nothing. Btw the top rails on those trailers is structural dont cut them off. Honestly that style carryon trailer are not very strong in the first place, they are meant to move counches and take tree trimmings to the dump. BUT it does have a 3.5 axle on it. Probably rated for 1 ton, a grossly over stated rating if you ask me

-We are planning to take it off-road, mostly forest service and mountain passes, but nothing crazy like rock crawling. Should we upgrade suspension from leaf springs?

Leaf spring or torsion is fine, neither is an upgrade just different flavors. The only thing is leafs might really like shocks

-Tires: They were flat and sat that way for so long they are warped and dry rotted. 16" rims but skinny tire. Thinking of upgrading to better wheels and tires if I can find a good deal. with 2.5" of space between current tire and fenders, what's the largest tire I can get away with? I'm open to cutting off these fenders and adding new ones.

If you change the axle you will probably have to adjust the fenders anyway, so get what wheels and tires you want and do fenders that work for that

-What should I do for weather/rust proofing?

wire brush the rust off then either por15 or eastwoods rust paint, then top that with what ever you want. the rustolem enamel paint works great.

-Wiring: wiring seems to be in OK condition but the standard pin connection has been crushed. Should I start from scratch and go to 7-way plug?

if your adding brakes you will need the 7 pin, if you want to charge the battery from the tow vehicle ( limited power ) you need 7 pin. I would recommend 7 pin so you can do brakes while you doing other things like axles

-Tongue Jack: Weld has cracked and it sits sideways. Planning to cut it off and add a new jack. Any suggestions/brands? Would be nice to have one with a wheel I suppose.

lots of options start reading here to see what people have used

-It would be nice to use the trailer outside of having the camper on it. Has anyone made a build where their body is removable?

There are a few who have built bodies that slide in to standard utility trailers. it can be done and not be ugly
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/thre ... ld.161384/

- I think I covered everything. Thanks for taking the time to read! I am open to any and all suggestions. There is a lot to learn and this forum seems very helpful!

[saltydawg]

Okay now that I did the quick reply, here is what I would if I HAD to reuse that frame.
Add the cross piece you want to. I would also run 2 2x3 .084 ( 14 gauge ) tube the length of the trailer right inside the existing frame rail. it would add 50 lbs to the trailer but make it much much stronger, but you need to lift it to get that clearance

Very carefully cut off the 50 degree coupler, then run a 2x3 .125 tube back at least the added cross member, if not one more then make the tongue 12 inches longer. Then weld it in to the existing a frame and to the rest of the frame. if you want to extend longer than 12 inches up to 18 go to 2x3 .25 tube

As for the axle, I would buy new hubs and bearings with brakes, your axle has the mounts for brakes. Then I would buy longer springs with either a higher lift or put the axle under the springs ie lift it. If i was keeping the springs and doing the lift i would add shocks, otherwise your axle is fine. Then buy rims and tires of the size I wanted and redo the fenders to those rims/tires. Now with brakes you need to go 7 pin

Then you will need a new deck as you know, its setup for wood, so wood would be easier. Going to mesh will be harder.

Oh the issue with using that type of frame is if you do side door they have to be way high up due to the side rails.

[saltydawg]

Now what I would do, is title the frame in your name, then send a photo of the title to carry on requesting a new vin sticker, tell the MVA wanted a new one sense the old was faded.

Then reuse the axle on a new build frame and slap the new vin sticker on it and put the tags and go from there. It would not be legal but if you built a complete trailer with the old vin you could switch the tags anytime you needed to haul something. THIS IS NOT LEGAL ADVISE. DO NOT DO THIS ( i would )

[zephyr21]

First of all, thanks for the reply!

I would also run 2 2x3 .084 ( 14 gauge ) tube the length of the trailer right inside the existing frame rail. it would add 50 lbs to the trailer but make it much much stronger, but you need to lift it to get that clearance

Right inside as in, underneath the entire frame running the length of the trailer? is the lift required so the tubing clears the axle?

Very carefully cut off the 50 degree coupler, then run a 2x3 .125 tube back at least the added cross member, if not one more then make the tongue 12 inches longer. Then weld it in to the existing a frame and to the rest of the frame. if you want to extend longer than 12 inches up to 18 go to 2x3 .25 tube

I am wanting to place a 4' x 19" toolbox (freebie) in front of the camper on the tongue. There is an angled piece coming from the top of the rail down to the tongue's cross member. With the newly added tubing, can I safely cut this angled piece off to make room for the toolbox?

As for the axle, I would buy new hubs and bearings with brakes, your axle has the mounts for brakes. Then I would buy longer springs with either a higher lift or put the axle under the springs ie lift it. If i was keeping the springs and doing the lift i would add shocks, otherwise your axle is fine. Then buy rims and tires of the size I wanted and redo the fenders to those rims/tires. Now with brakes you need to go 7 pin

Are there specific hub and bearing kits that come with brakes? Will longer springs be able to bolt on where current brackets exist or is there more welding/additions involved?

Then you will need a new deck as you know, its setup for wood, so wood would be easier. Going to mesh will be harder.

Definitely going with wood decking. Planning to prime and paint the decking for weatherproofing.

Oh the issue with using that type of frame is if you do side door they have to be way high up due to the side rails.

Considering it was free I'll find a way to work around it!

Now what I would do, is title the frame in your name, then send a photo of the title to carry on requesting a new vin sticker, tell the MVA wanted a new one sense the old was faded.

Then reuse the axle on a new build frame and slap the new vin sticker on it and put the tags and go from there. It would not be legal but if you built a complete trailer with the old vin you could switch the tags anytime you needed to haul something. THIS IS NOT LEGAL ADVISE. DO NOT DO THIS ( i would )

I live in Oklahoma, and oddly enough I don't think you have register and tag trailers for personal use.

[saltydawg]

First of all, thanks for the reply!

Right inside as in, underneath the entire frame running the length of the trailer? is the lift required so the tubing clears the axle?

You could put it under, or next to the rail, what ever is easier to get it to fit and be able to weld it in. If you put it under you would need to lift it most likely

I am wanting to place a 4' x 19" toolbox (freebie) in front of the camper on the tongue. There is an angled piece coming from the top of the rail down to the tongue's cross member. With the newly added tubing, can I safely cut this angled piece off to make room for the toolbox?

I would think so, but you can also add a flat plate top, and bottom where the A frame meet the new tube if you want to make sure.

Are there specific hub and bearing kits that come with brakes? Will longer springs be able to bolt on where current brackets exist or is there more welding/additions involved?

They should be standard 3500 lb hubs with 10inch brakes. But I would make sure before you bought it. Its easy to pull a hub and take it to your local trailer place and ask, or even better bring the whole trailer. Yes longer springs would need new perches welded on. But longer spring will make it a lot less bounce.

Definitely going with wood decking. Planning to prime and paint the decking for weatherproofing.

Just do pressure treated

I live in Oklahoma, and oddly enough I don't think you have register and tag trailers for personal use.