How is this TSC trailer to build on?

[Deesk06]

I was looking to weld my own trailer together using 11GA steel, but registering a home made trailer in my state is a pain (NJ). I need to get notarized statements of plans, materials & construction details as well as a certified weight slip.

Anyway, this was the trailer I was looking into: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... -5x8sp-gen ... thoughts on this?

Thanks!

*Edited because of link to incorrect one*

[steve cowan]

Northern tool has a 5x8 bolt together trailer.It seems buying one with sides and rear gate is a waste.Most people that use these will move the axle mount location
on these trailers to get a 60/40 ratio for proper trailer tracking.They will come with registraion papers to get it tagged.Cost around $600 range.

[QueticoBill]

Many teardrops have been built on the Norther Tools trailer. Its where I've started. Already considering replacing axel and tires, wanting larger tires and brakes.

I didn't find data on TSC trailer but if considering I'd like to know speed rating on tires (NT says 45 mph but I have exceeded that) and if I could add brakes (cannot on NT axel). My Subaru Outback requires trailer brakes over 1000 pounds.

Now, it might be easier and less expensive to modify NT versus TSC, I don't know. Personally, I would not like removing rails on TSC, but no big deal.

BTW I chose NT for same reason as you - registration hurdles in IL.

[tony.latham]

I think it would be fine –-if you removed the ramp, rails, and mesh.

New Jersey's DIY trailer registration is a bit of a hoop to jump but it's doable:

To register a homemade trailer
You will need the following:

1. Proof of identification; Original receipts/titles for all parts used; A notarized statement containing: construction details; parts and material used; and the date and location where parts were purchased.
2. A certified weight slip: If the trailer weighs more than 2,500 lbs. (unladen), it must also be titled.
3. Color photographs showing all angles of the trailer.
4. A Vehicle Registration Application (Form BA-49).
5. Completed Application for Certificate of Title for Home-Made Trailer (Form OS/SS-32).
6. Completed Universal Title Application (Form OS/SS-UTA)
7. Payment fee for registration (Code 22)
8. Payment fee for titling (if applicable) $60 for a standard vehicle.

I'd weld a good chassis and jump through their hoops. You'll end up with a much better foundation and it'll cost you less.


Tony

[philpom]

The rails on that type of trailer are generally important for strength and stability. I would be concerned that removing them would greatly weaken the trailer. I build on the Harbor Freight bolt-together 4x8 super duty trailer. It came with the registration paperwork and was a fraction of the cost of that TSC trailer.

[QueticoBill]

Ultimately it seems people have been successful building trailers from scratch, reusing junked boat and camper trailers, using trailers like the TSC you linked, and using kit trailers like Harbor Freight and Northern Tools. Capacity, weight, tire size and capabilities, brakes or ability to add them, durability, cost, registration, and time it takes you to complete it all factor in.

Your TSC choice does address a lot of those at some cost. I don't know if the rails are needed; some seem superfluous and the walls may provide enough or more structure. Compare the frame to trailers without the rails for some idea. And I've seen at least one trailer here that retained those rails. I wondered if a vardo style wouldn't fit this style trailer well, and perhaps be built to be removable.

[tony.latham]

The rails on that type of trailer are generally important for strength and stability. I would be concerned that removing them would greatly weaken the trailer.

You're right about the rail. They add stiffness, so if you load a refrigerator or something similar in the center, it won't flex. But when you bolt a teardrop cabin down, it adds strength back into the trailer, and flex isn't an issue.

Besides, this chassis frame uses tubing, not angle or channel.

Now, with all the work it needs, I'd weld up a real chassis and jump through the registration hoops. No big deal and it's cheaper.

Tony

[techun]

Why not this one? No rails.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... ler-504085

[TimC]

I've built two teardrops on the NT trailer (link) and have no regrets. One was the steel version and the other the aluminum version. Strong enough for what I use it for. And I upgraded to 13" wheels/tires for a better ride using the stock axle and use one of the original 12" wheels for a spare. In addition I have another one I use as a utility trailer.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/ironton-5ft-x-8ft-steel-utility-trailer-kit-1715-lb-load-capacity-37552

Yes, it is bolted together and uses C channel vs tubing. If you are off roading regularly and your goal is to throw as much mud as you can then the TS would be a better/stronger option. If only occasionally and you take your time the NT trailer will serve you well.

[QueticoBill]

I agree with Tim C's assessment. The only catch is if you need brakes, then you need to replace axle.

As far as build your own, if you know how to weld, if you have the equipment to cut and weld steel, if you have the space, and if you don't mind the extra time, it might cost less.

[Deesk06]

The rails on that type of trailer are generally important for strength and stability. I would be concerned that removing them would greatly weaken the trailer.

You're right about the rail. They add stiffness, so if you load a refrigerator or something similar in the center, it won't flex. But when you bolt a teardrop cabin down, it adds strength back into the trailer, and flex isn't an issue.

Besides, this chassis frame uses tubing, not angle or channel.

Now, with all the work it needs, I'd weld up a real chassis and jump through the registration hoops. No big deal and it's cheaper.

Tony

Thanks Tony!

I am worried about my welding skills to be honest. I can tack/weld a few things here or there, but relying on a whole trailer welded by me would have me a bit worried.

If I do go with the TSC one I linked, then removing the rails is safe you're saying? I generally wanted this one because it had the tubing, not channel. Not that it makes a huge difference for tear drops, but just general piece of mind really.

[tony.latham]

I am worried about my welding skills to be honest. I can tack/weld a few things here or there, but relying on a whole trailer welded by me would have me a bit worried.

Do you have a friend that can mentor your welding?

Tony