trailer wire "clips" for square tubing

[italianub]

Hey everyone,

My trailer (we're welding starting Thursday) is square tubing, and I am wondering what you guys use to hold your trailer wire. I figured zip ties, but that's not aesthetically pleasing from the outside and would also interfere with putting the floor on. I've seen these weldable tabs in videos before but can't seem to find them online anywhere. The wires will be sent down my center beam square tubing to a junction box, and from there I need some way to hold them to the frame, clips won't work since I am not using channel steel. One thing I thought of was just welding some spare links from my towing chains on since I'll have extra anyway.

In Tony's book he uses adhesive-backed mounting plates, but I'd like a more permanent solution that I can zip tie the wire loom to.

Any help or direction would be great!

[italianub]

I guess I was using the wrong terminology! Found these - anyone had any experience with em?

https://www.amazon.com/Sidco-Supply-Wel ... 135&sr=8-3

better reviews here (though not too many)

https://www.amazon.com/Jikacok-Premium- ... r=8-9&th=1

[tony.latham]

In Tony's book he uses adhesive-backed mounting plates, but I'd like a more permanent solution that I can zip tie the wire loom to.

Well... the plates are still stuck to the frame--five years later. They were installed the day after it was painted, so there's no
question the surface was clean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B3DZ8WB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I'm not saying there isn't something better, but they work well. You could use Adele clamps and tap and drill the holes, but that would be a whole lotta work. Pun intended.



Tony

[Sparksalot]

Since you're welding anyway, why not use short pieces, or rings, of tubing welded to the frame to pass wires through.

[italianub]

Since you're welding anyway, why not use short pieces, or rings, of tubing welded to the frame to pass wires through.

good call! I should have some spare tubing leftover

[KCStudly]

Unplated 1/4-20UNC rod coupling nuts tack welded on, then use short 1/4-20 SS pan or hex head screws and plastic "P" clamps. The coupling nuts provide standoff from the frame and prevent any debris from collecting while still holding your wire bundles securely. I like to put them every 12-18 inches of run.

Don't run wires loosely in chassis tubing or thru over sized rings. Wires can move around, flex repeatedly and break or chaffe.

I like to use the corrugated split loom with a small amount of electrical tap to secure the ends at junctions, but you can also just cinch extra zip ties in between the coupling nut anchor points, just leave them loose until you are totally sure you are done wiring. You don't want multiple layers of wires tied on to an ever growing bundle, you want a single bundle that is much easier to make repairs and changes to.

[Ottsville]

Since you're welding anyway, why not use short pieces, or rings, of tubing welded to the frame to pass wires through.

On my utility trailer I used lock washers welded to the frame with the split away from the frame towards the top. Open them up a little before welding, then when it's wired you can close them up a little or use a zip tie.

[pchast]

I used plastic pipe... any steel pipe needs to be well deburred to protect the wire.

[Onajourney]

I ran all wiring from hitch to rear of trailer and up through floor in one 1/2" pvc conduit. strapped with self tapping screws.



Or you can use something like these with self tapping screws.

https://www.amazon.com/mankk-Compatible-Stainless-Management-M-034-BK-LS/dp/B098QBQGWW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=QNTJB7N4D5JS&keywords=plastic%2Bwire%2Bclip&qid=1707143243&sprefix=plastic%2Bwire%2Bclip%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-3&th=1

[KCStudly]

The method of welding on the coupling nuts and not putting wires in a tube or conduit has many advantages: 1) they stand the cable run off of the frame and avoid crude collecting; 2) you aren't drilling and tapping your frame so no water or rust issues are created inside; 3) the bolts you use to install the P-clips protect the internal threads (as opposed to welding bolts to the frame and using nuts to secure the P-clips, which leaves the threaded tip of the bolt to rust); if you ever do have a problem with one of them it's easy enough to cut it off and add another one without cutting extra holes in your frame. The split loom allows you access to any wire at any time... at the expense of a few zip ties... to make repairs, updates, troubleshoot, etc., while holding the wires securely to avoid chafing or flex. Just saying, that's how we did it on commercial applications because it was the most reliable method using simple readily available stuff.