Powder coating

[Guest]

IMO- The biggest key to powdercoating is to make sure the metal is prepared correctly.
I'm "advertising" for a local powdercoater that refused to redo his work on the glass rack of my truck. It looked awesome for about a week, then started flaking off in big chunks. he wanted to charge me $500.00 again to redo it.
I told him he could either fix his mistake for no additional charge, or I would advertise his handywork... been advertising it since 2001.

[Woodbutcher]

I would agree with the post above on the prep work being very important. I had a frame for a Triumph TR4A stripped by Redistrip in Roselle, IL. It takes off ALL rust and scale. It is given back in new condition. It would work great on wire wheels. Also just a thought. I had the wires for the same car, re- trued before painting them. You might want to see if they are true before spending a lot of money on them and find out you need them adjusted and ruin all your new paint work.



http://www.hemmings.com/images/pdfs/RED ... _64092.pdf

[D. Tillery]

I get about 50 pieces of my work powder coated each year for the past 10 years or so. Prep is very important because even a fingerprint will rust and spread under it. I can see this on clear powder over polished steel.

It is becomming more popular with OEM folks because it is faster and easier to apply on a conveyor system than paints, especially the textures.

Dean, it will flake off if not properly cured. If he or you had caught it in time he could have put it back in the oven. To test for cure, put some lacquer thinner on a cloth and rub it pretty good somewhere hidden. If color comes off then it is not cured. I've had to fire several over the years and I've been slowly acquiring parts for my own oven.

The main drawback is that you can't touch it up very well. Also, if you have to remove it, it costs about double to sandblast it. It is beautiful and very tough. IMHO the best long term rust protection is with oil based paint.