Questions about wood and connecting to metal frame...

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Questions about wood and connecting to metal frame...

Postby dncnryn » Fri Mar 17, 2017 2:59 pm

Is there a general consensus of what type of wood to use for the bottom frame and the spurs (sp?) going along the top? My plan is, like many others I have seen do, to cut 2x4s down to 2x2s and use that as the frame. I just have questions on if they should or shouldn't be pressure treated as all of my local stores only sell pressure treated. Also, what type of screws/bolts should I use to connect the wood base frame to the metal frame.

I am extremely new to this. Found out about Teardrops and wanted to build one. Went out and bought an old rotted out pop up camper (about 6x9 - width and length)and have it tore down to the frame and I'm ready to get to the next step before taking all my measurements and creating in sketch up. Any advice would be great!

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Re: Questions about wood and connecting to metal frame...

Postby QueticoBill » Fri Mar 17, 2017 3:48 pm

I think there are different preferences. Some use what you suggest. I like to use poplar because it mills a little cleaner and rarely twists or warps as S-P-F framing lumber seems to do often. I generally don't use PT lumber unless it's in contact with the ground. I'm interested to learn if some people do. I'd want to check out any reactions between the PT and the metal.
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Re: Questions about wood and connecting to metal frame...

Postby gizmotron » Fri Mar 17, 2017 3:49 pm

I have a harbor freight #1875 non folding frame. It has a 60lbs single sheet of 3/4" plywood for the floor on it right now. I'm planning on removing it and using an expandable 9 ft. Aluminum Telescoping Work Plank that I plan to take apart and mount to the top of the steel frame. My floor will still be 8 feet long but this will allow me to widen the floor to 67" using the aluminum 1" by 2" joist and 5/8" structural plywood for the flooring. By doing this I will be able to sculpt the space between the outside edge of the top of the floor and the bottom of the sides of the steel trailer in foam and PMF. This will give me enough aluminum for the cantilever to run the aluminum joist at less than 10 inches on center if I want to. I might intentionally run them at 16" spaces so that I can tie the stringers and rafters to the floor joist. The foam has snap breaks at 16 inches. 5/8" structural plywood is very strong at 16" on center. You find it in upstairs floors of many residential houses.

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