2 part epoxy?

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2 part epoxy?

Postby Jeeper92 » Mon Aug 06, 2007 7:58 pm

has anyone had any luck with this, there was a thread a while back and it just seemed to die. I was wondering if its holding up. Mike did you use it?
It was teh garage two part epoxy

thanks
bob
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Postby Arne » Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:05 pm

two part epoxy is about the best adhesive you can use... since it has a set up time to deal with and is expensive, I tend to use it only in specific places where I want super adhesion....

Titebond glue is cheaper and works well.... depends on where you are using it, which one.... if exposed to the outside, I'd go with epoxy.... if inside, I use Titebond.
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can you use it......

Postby Jeeper92 » Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:28 pm

to finish the exterior?
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Postby Arne » Tue Aug 07, 2007 7:23 am

If you mean apply over the entire surface, epoxy is not UV tolerant and needs an over coat for protection from the sun.. not sure why you would want to cover the whole thing with epoxy anyway, it is an adhesive, not a coating.

I do use cpes on a lot of the wood surfaces to stabilize them, but then paint over it...
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Postby rohnk » Tue Aug 21, 2007 5:59 pm

Don't they use two part epoxy and fiberglass for wooden boats? The fiberglass is only there to add a layer of protection for the wood. The epoxy itself is the waterproofing and sealing agent.

Or am I all wet! :o

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Postby madjack » Tue Aug 21, 2007 6:10 pm

Epoxy, make a fine finish...look at Doug Hodders work...however, it is not UV proof and must be coated with a UV proof finish such as spar varnish or an auto type paint.....by the way Arne, CPES is a special penetrating EPOXY................
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Re: 2 part epoxy?

Postby Miriam C. » Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:09 pm

Jeeper92 wrote:has anyone had any luck with this, there was a thread a while back and it just seemed to die. I was wondering if its holding up. Mike did you use it?
It was teh garage two part epoxy

thanks
bob


Bob was talking about garage floor paint that is 2 part epoxy. We have a couple of guys who used it but it hasn't been on long and I don't remember who they are.

You might post the question again in Construction tips and see who turns up.
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thanks

Postby Jeeper92 » Wed Aug 22, 2007 6:55 pm

YOU ARE RIGHT THATS WHAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT ITS ONLY 20 BUCKS A GALLON
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Bought some and applying it this weekend

Postby Jeeper92 » Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:21 pm

It is uv resistant at least thats what the stuff i bought says, its can be used on sidewalks, wlaksways and garage floors. I tried it on some wood and its taking to it pretty damn good
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Postby MOKI SEAKER » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:47 am

I wonder how well it would work on the plastic sheets I got from Lowes. I don't believe they are UV proof, and will need a coat of something..Jim G
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Postby jimqpublic » Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:32 am

We used an industrial grade 2 part epoxy floor paint in our garage about 7 years ago. It was a lot more than $20 a gallon- more like 60. You need to look at the "solids" percentage- the $20 paint is probably only partly Epoxy. The stuff we used was designed for indoor use- where it extends a few inches beyond the garage door it has faded a bit, but hasn't flaked or turned chalky.

It looks great on concrete- I don't know how smooth it would be on a flat surface like a teardrop. I suggest using epoxy to bond and seal then a companion paint for the topcoat.

My buddy and I built kayaks with West System epoxy. He topcoated his with Interlux Briteside paint and whatever primer Interlux said to use over epoxy. Ten years later his kayak looks great. (Mine is still hanging in the garage waiting for the coaming and seat to be installed)
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Postby elcam84 » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:13 pm

I have a bit of experience with epoxy and paints.

Epoxy is a generic name for many things now. It can apply to anything that has two parts.

Epoxy as most think of it is the for lack of a better term a two part fiberglass resin material (much better though and easier to mix)

Then there is epoxy paints which have two or more parts. Better automotive paint is that way. There are epoxy primers named such because they are a two part hardening paint.


For the resin stuff there are several brands that I have used and one is very good for the price as in much cheaper than west etc. the key to using it is to get a mix that does not blush. Blush has to be removed before anything can be put on top of it. It's basically a waxy coat left on the surface kinda like bondo does.

CPES is basically a thinned epoxy. Most of the boat buildiers have gone to just using regular epoxy as IMO and others it's the way to go. The idea is if you need it to soak into the wood that much then you need to replace the rotted wood. CPES does spread easier though.

None of the epoxy resin compounds have UV inhibitors and must be coated with some sort of paint or a UV blocking varnish.
regular spar varnish can be used but a good two part urethane varnish is much preferred. Either type you will end up with about 5 coats or so and a sand and recoat or two every year as it looses it's UV blocking qualities in the sun.

As for the layer of fiberglass on boats yes that is for strength. It dissapears when the resin is rolled on.

One thing that is also done is using automotive clearcoat. I'm just about done painting my El Camino and when I get it done I'm going to do some test samples and sit them in the TX sun nad see what happens. I'm designing a teardrop that will probably be a woody as I'm a wood worker too.
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Postby asianflava » Thu Oct 30, 2008 5:55 pm

jimqpublic wrote:We used an industrial grade 2 part epoxy floor paint in our garage about 7 years ago. It was a lot more than $20 a gallon- more like 60. You need to look at the "solids" percentage- the $20 paint is probably only partly Epoxy. The stuff we used was designed for indoor use- where it extends a few inches beyond the garage door it has faded a bit, but hasn't flaked or turned chalky.


This is an old thread, but since then I've painted my garage floor and am familiar with the players involved.

My neighbor in TX did his garage with the Rust-o-Leum (waterbourne) kit and it was still prone to getting scratched. They are also in the process of painting the floor at work with a Sherwin Williams water bourne epoxy. The coating seems thin on both, but the professional SW paint seems harder.

Wanting something more durable, I used a kit from Armorpoxy. It is a 100% solids epoxy that goes on with a squeege and evened out with a roller. Naturally it is more expensive than the waterbourne kit but it cures 10 times thicker. If you were to install 10 coats of the waterbourne epoxy, it will end up costing more.

The stuff I used is somewhat self leveling. Unless you have a lot of flat areas on your trailer, most of it will probably run off before it is cured.
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