What problems are common with rough road towing?

Lets captures all those good off road construction ideas here...

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Postby PaulC » Sun May 23, 2010 2:20 am

I think we should apologise for hijacking this thread now Deepmud :lol:

Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:
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suspension

Postby boxcar » Sun May 23, 2010 3:05 am

Lets se . Every sucsesfull off road racing team in the sport has gone to independent suspension. Now I realize we are not racing. But that does not chainge the fact that it works... Leaf springs are used on most trailers because theay are cheap and easy to manufature.. I am not promoting the use of independant suspension on all or eaven most trailers. Much to complex for the normal builder. HOWEVER If one is willing to invest the time to figure it out it's actualy prety simple and the end result is definatly worth the effort. After all i'm not in a race to build my trailer. It's the build I enjoy. I don't mind spending hours designing parts. Thats what I do.
A leaf spring or coil spring suspension system must be rated to cary the maximum load that the prospected trailer is capable of carying. Of course you can build a hybred system with long soft springs and air bags . Or you can link your axle and run straight air bags. But that still doesn't solve the ground clearence problem. Tortion axles do a prety good job of adressing all these issues .However longevity has ben an issue with them over the years. www.adventuretrailers.com Has been working on this problem for quite a fuew years and have some great solutions to this problem. You should check the site. It's a good one... As far as off roading down under vs .off roading up over . Dirt is dirt rocks are rocks and mud is mud.
And the end sesult is the same. Leafe springs fatigue and break. If you high side a bolder with your straight axle it will bend. If you tow a to stiff trailer down a wash boarded road you better hope the beer does not explode... Just my thoughts. I'm prety sure I tow my trailer in a little diferent manner than most. And I don't camp in many camp grounds.
To me the trailer is an extension of my jeep , It must go were the Jeep goes . The problem is that it is a bit more fragile than the Jeep so it must have a better ride... As far as expence .Well yes it's more money, about a third more than axle and spring. But we are not talking about on road trailers here, we are talking off road. any body that tells ya that dirt is cheap is pulling your leg. My drive lines alone were better than $1000.... Have a great weekend (or wat's left of it)...Boxcar...
God Bless....
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Postby PaulC » Sun May 23, 2010 4:38 am

So Boxcar, are we racing or offroading. Every 4WD manufacturer has gone independent and has had to increase the electronic/computer controls to enable those vehicles to go as far as the, as you refer to it, old technology vehicle was capable of, straight out of the box.

We can debate this issue until the cows come home but the vehicle manufacturers admit that they have gone independent to improve the highway handling of their vehicles.

You recommend involved independent and I recommend simple leaf, it's a personal choice Mate.

Enjoy your trailer and I'll enjoy mine.

Now, as to hassles you can have offroad, none if you drive to the conditions. Hammer it in the real rough stuff and you'll be repairing all sorts for weeks after.
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keep an open mind

Postby eamarquardt » Sun May 23, 2010 11:00 am

PaulC wrote:There is absolutely no way I would contemplate any kind of independent suspension on any of the TD's I've built. Number 5 is in progress now and all of them have leaf sprung suspension. I'm a firm believer in the kiss principle.
Further, I wouldn't mind a dollar for every "cool", independently sprung trailer I've helped out of all sorts of predicaments, down here.
All of our camping is remote, not some, all of it.

Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:


My neighbor built a trailer with conventional springs , drove it on dirt roads, and had several failures. It looked ok to me but obviously wasn't up to the task.

Here is a really interesting site:

http://www.adventuretrailers.com/suspension.html

IMHO, if done right, an independant suspension system using airbags and shocks could be superior to a leaf spring setup. But I'll never do it as I have trouble (bouncing causes me considerable pain) just driving on California's "paved" roads!

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Postby deepmud » Sun May 23, 2010 10:04 pm

We aren't gonna convince PaulC - but that's ok. His stuff holds up for him. It's hard to argue with that 8)


But I still like I.S. on a trailer and I promise you Paul I beat the CRAP out of it, lol . I can't do a side-by-side with us on opposite sides of the planet but it would be fun - I've always wanted to go to Down Under :thumbsup:
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Postby StormRider » Sun May 23, 2010 10:20 pm

Adventure Trailers has a great suspension design if your planning on blasting through washboard trails, and the airbags are great for adjusting the ride height of the trailer based on load. I looked into replicating their suspension setup, and the first issue is cost- the internally shocked air bag runs $900 a piece. Their older design would be cheaper, however I suspect they moved to the much more expensive shocked airbag because the dampening wasn't really sufficient.
Old design:
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New design:
Image
Great suspension article:
http://www.adventuretrailers.com/suspension.html

As far as center line clearance goes on the trailer axle, it should be a non-issue if your trailer tires are even close to your tow vehicle's tire size, as the rear differential pumpkin hangs 5+ inches below the axle, a clearance issue your trailer axle doesn't have :)

I'll also point out that while many light duty 4x4 manufacturers have gone to independent suspension in the front, most are a solid axle in the rear. Jeep is still a solid axle front and rear, as solid axles provide much more suspension articulation for the cost compared to independent.

It really comes down to what problem you are trying to solve, and how much you want to pay.
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Postby deepmud » Sun May 23, 2010 10:35 pm

StormRider wrote:It really comes down to what problem you are trying to solve, and how much you want to pay.


Word!

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Postby mj1angier » Thu May 27, 2010 8:49 am

well, you can start with a trailer made for off road use
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Postby StormRider » Thu May 27, 2010 10:21 am

the M105A2 trailer is a heavy beast- ~2700lbs empty. You'll need a full size truck to tow it.
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Postby Ageless » Thu May 27, 2010 12:08 pm

Full size? My 2008 Ranger 4X4 is rated for 5500 lbs.
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Postby StormRider » Thu May 27, 2010 4:18 pm

Towing a trailer that approaches or exceeds the tow vehicle's weight off road isn't going to end well, regardless of rated towing capacity. Additionally, the M105a2 trailer has a pintle height of 36", and air over hydraulic brakes. That big of a trailer is going to push around a compact truck, especially off road.

The M101A2/3 series military trailer would be a much better surplus trailer to start with if you want to go down that road. Curb weight of ~1,300 lbs, hydraulic surge brakes, and a pintle height of 21".
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Postby stomperxj » Thu May 27, 2010 4:41 pm

Ageless wrote:Full size? My 2008 Ranger 4X4 is rated for 5500 lbs.


The heaviest ranger I found was about 3400#. I would love to see it tow around a 2700# trailer and try and stop much less 5500# :) There's a difference between 'Rated' and 'realistic' :)
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Postby Ageless » Thu May 27, 2010 7:05 pm

Personally; I wouldn't get anywhere near 'rated'. My Compact Jr. is 1370 dry and it's 6' x 10' space works for me.
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off Road Travels

Postby The Teardrop Nanny » Thu May 27, 2010 8:13 pm

8) The Road Titan made a return trip over a "scenic" route I selected when coming back from Ocean Cove. We didn't stop when we saw the rough road sign, nor the sign saying pavement ends. The drive was slow, and their hadn't been recent rains to make large potholes. I'm used to going on some pretty rough roads (Jeep Willy & 4 wheel drive girl here), so this one seemed great. When we returned to the paved part, we rinsed off at a car wash. The only thing that MAY have happened was the outside light covering (plastic) was missing. It could have come off earlier, but we just notiiced it and thought it might have become jiggled off in the r.r .transit.
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Postby mj1angier » Fri May 28, 2010 9:30 am

StormRider wrote:Towing a trailer that approaches or exceeds the tow vehicle's weight off road isn't going to end well, regardless of rated towing capacity. Additionally, the M105a2 trailer has a pintle height of 36", and air over hydraulic brakes. That big of a trailer is going to push around a compact truck, especially off road.

The M101A2/3 series military trailer would be a much better surplus trailer to start with if you want to go down that road. Curb weight of ~1,300 lbs, hydraulic surge brakes, and a pintle height of 21".


Well it depends on the TV. I have seen quite a few rock cralwers and mudders that would not have a hard time with the 36" but yes for a more stock TV the M101A2 would better.

For all you ever wanted to know about Mil. surplus vech. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/

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