1/2 vs 3/4 ply for walls & floor

[wpage66]

I have a set of plans for the 8' Cubby and I am concered with the floor and walls using only 1/2 ply. This will be a mild Off-Road use trailer with at least an annual trip to Moab each year. Do most use 1/2 for both walls and floor or upgrade to 3/4?

I am planning on building a new hybrid (Cub-Roy) using the Cubby(front) and Benroy(back) to get as much cabin space as possible. I like how the Benroy has the galley a little farther to the rear. I am also thinking about doing it on a 5x10 custom frame. Still trying to figure out the straight axle to use, will be at least 3,500 most likely Dexter but not set on width yet, vehicle is 62" and would like for it to be close to tow rig.

One of the reasons for the hybrid design is to get more level roof for a roof rack, which also leads to one of my reasons to go with 3/4 ply for the walls to allow additional support for the rack.

Any thoughts/comments welcome

[absolutsnwbrdr]

1/2" should be plenty, but considering your tow vehicle is capable of off-roading at Moab, then I don't see any reason not to upgrade to 3/4". Many people use thinner wood and insulated sandwich walls to save weight. No way is incorrect. I used 3/4" for the floor and side for mine... and will probably do the same for my next build.

Also... A slightly heavier teardrop should bounce less going down the road (or trails) unless you have your suspension specifically rated for your trailers finished weight.

[KenC]

I have a set of plans for the 8' Cubby and I am concered with the floor and walls using only 1/2 ply. This will be a mild Off-Road use trailer with at least an annual trip to Moab each year. Do most use 1/2 for both walls and floor or upgrade to 3/4?

I am planning on building a new hybrid (Cub-Roy) using the Cubby(front) and Benroy(back) to get as much cabin space as possible. I like how the Benroy has the galley a little farther to the rear. I am also thinking about doing it on a 5x10 custom frame. Still trying to figure out the straight axle to use, will be at least 3,500 most likely Dexter but not set on width yet, vehicle is 62" and would like for it to be close to tow rig.

One of the reasons for the hybrid design is to get more level roof for a roof rack, which also leads to one of my reasons to go with 3/4 ply for the walls to allow additional support for the rack.

Any thoughts/comments welcome

Welcome to the forum and have fun.

I'm in the process of building a mild off road trailer, Benroy with insulated walls and floor. More info I my build is in the link below. My walls are 3/4 framing with 1/4 in on the inside and outside walls. I'm also using a 3500 Dexter axel with derated springs.

[madjack]

I use high end, cabinet grade 3/4ply for the walls and 1/2 for the floor, tying it all together with cleats and front and rear bulkhead...all 1/2ply would probably be sufficient as well, I just like the 3/4" walls..........
madjack

[wpage66]

Welcome to the forum and have fun.

I'm in the process of building a mild off road trailer, Benroy with insulated walls and floor. More info I my build is in the link below. My walls are 3/4 framing with 1/4 in on the inside and outside walls. I'm also using a 3500 Dexter axel with derated springs.

KenC,

I read through you build and like much of what you are doing and might have to steal some of your ideas and work. Several of your design ideas are exactly what I was planning on. I will have to look into your paint that you are applying as I am not sure about finding 5' aluminum for the roof. It looks great, I hope mine will turn out 1/2 as good as yours is.

[caseydog]

I'm like MadJack. I like my 3/4 walls. I don't think the extra 1/4 inch added much weight.

I used 3/4 birch plywood for walls, floor and the 1/2 bulkhead and galley countertop that form the main structure of my TD. My TD weighs about 600 pounds, and it is rock solid.

With that solid structure, I was able to use a very lightweight, thin roof skin.

BTW, if you go with an axle/spring setup of 3,500 pounds, and you have a 1,000 pound teardrop, that sucker is going to bounce around like a ping-pong ball. For off road, you will need some fender clearance and suspension travel, but too much spring is going to beat your TD to death, IMO.

CD

[KenC]

I read through you build and like much of what you are doing and might have to steal some of your ideas and work. Several of your design ideas are exactly what I was planning on. I will have to look into your paint that you are applying as I am not sure about finding 5' aluminum for the roof. It looks great, I hope mine will turn out 1/2 as good as yours is.

I may get aluminum skin for the roof I got a qoute from Industrial Metal Supply CO for a .040 3003 60 x 144 sheet, I'm sure you can find it in your area as well. Thanks for the kind words on my build, it's been a lot of fun! There are a lot of great ideals here and throughout the WEB, here are some links for off road TD's that inspired me.


Home built links

http://jpodbuild.wordpress.com/

http://td.roughwheelers.com/

http://www.outbackteardrop.com/

http://parmer.org/

http://www.asolidfoundation.com/index.shtml

These last 2 are commercial sites.

http://www.socalteardrops.com/page.php?p=34&t=Off-Road Trailers

http://www.adventuretrailers.com/page/t ... /teardrop/

[hugh]

I used 1/2 for the floor and an outer skin of 1/4 and an inner skin of rougher 3/8 for mine. The wall frame,s are 2 x 2 ,s, it is insulated and all wall studs, panel,s etc are glued and screwed. The reason I used the rougher plywood inside is because I was planning on stapling a gray indoor / outdoor carpet to the interior walls. For off road use I put a 3500 lb axle with electric brakes under it and shocks and the trailer currently sit,s on 32" tires. To prevent any flexing of the floor a couple extra rails were added. It is very solid and I have taken it to a few places that are very rugged. The body forms a torsion box many have talked about here making these trailers quite strong. The biggest issue was using plywood from home Depot, it took a long time to "gas off" , and the outer plywood still had moisture in it so the first paint job did not last long, only made it through one winter here, mind you it does get down to 40 below occasionally.