Checking in from Mid Missouri

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Postby Bender » Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:43 pm

ok folks, here is what I have........


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What ya think we can do for doors on this beast?

And who is the expert on skinning these things? I have an idea that sounds really good, but I haven't seen it done by anyone.
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Postby Bender » Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:47 pm

Gage wrote:
Bender wrote:Sedalia, about 17 miles east of Knob Noster.

So is that in the states somewhere?

Question for you. Is that the type of answers you want us to give you? You know after asking a question and we give you an answer. You then scratch your head and ask yourself. What he say?


In other words, Where the heck is Sedalia or Knob Noster?

I also didn't know that the modernistic trailer came with a "birdcage" type frame. And here I thought I knew teardrops. Again, I've learned something new.



As the title of the thread states, I am in Mid-Missouri. About 110 miles north or Springfield. My answer was concise and to the point.
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Postby Bender » Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:52 pm

Ira wrote:Is Knob Noster anywhere near Hooterville?


Actually, sorta. Otterville is 17 miles east of Sedalia, most of the locals call it Hooterville.
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:56 pm

I would make a door frame out of 1xs... then cover the frame with the same plywood that you cover the metal frame with. Use t-molding to keep the weather out.

Is your metal framing 3/4"? If so, that'll make it easy to insulate and put an interior skin on.

Mike...
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Postby Bender » Thu Nov 23, 2006 7:02 pm

mikeschn wrote:.

Is your metal framing 3/4"? If so, that'll make it easy to insulate and put an interior skin on.

Mike...



Nope, it is 1" square tubing. .083" wall thickness. I plan on putting some blueboard in for insulation.

Also, I am probably gonna skin it in aluminium or galvanized steel. That is where my secret ingredient comes into play
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Postby RAYVILLIAN » Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:23 pm

Bender
You could do your doors from the same tubeing. edevans did that on his TTT he built for his wife Ruby. The hatch could be done that way to if you have someone that can do the same bends that the frame is made from.

One question. The floor looks like steel too, Is it? If so I would think that you might want to insulate that too. I wouldn't think that steel would be very warm on cold nights.

I'm local 9 miles north west of Richmond.

Gary
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Darn blank states keep getting further away and we keep traveling slower ain't never gona get this map full.
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Postby Bender » Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:28 pm

RAYVILLIAN wrote:Bender
You could do your doors from the same tubeing. edevans did that on his TTT he built for his wife Ruby. The hatch could be done that way to if you have someone that can do the same bends that the frame is made from.

One question. The floor looks like steel too, Is it? If so I would think that you might want to insulate that too. I wouldn't think that steel would be very warm on cold nights.

I'm local 9 miles north west of Richmond.

Gary



I am not a metal worker at all! I have no welder or even the want to learn. I found a company online that plans on making teardrop doors, but no date as of yet.

Yes the floor is steel, and yes I will insulate it. Thinking I might put foamboard under the floor.

Glad to see some teardrop owners close! Thanks for replying.
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Postby Gage » Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:23 am

Thank you...........Now, what size square tubing is that, 1" or 3/4"and how wide is that opening for the door?
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I bet that's a nice drive up from Springfield. ;)
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Postby RAYVILLIAN » Fri Nov 24, 2006 8:55 am

Bender
Most people make there doors out of plywood and install a trailer window in the door for ventalation. Of course most trailers are made of wood with just a steel trailer, not a complete steel frame like yours.

Looks like you could pop rivet or screw aluminum sheeting to the out side. Put in your insulation and wireing and screw on 1/4 or 1/8 plywood on the inside. Let the plywood over lap the door a 1/4 inch for a sealing surface for the door and make your door from 3/4 plywood.

Another alternative that I've never seen done but should work is to get an old Larsen solid core strom door. They are basicly 3/4 particile board with and aluminum frame and vynil skin on the two sides. The aluminum frame is just srewed to the wood core so it can be removed, the core cut down and the sides cut and reattach. By useing the frame work that is normally attach to the house you would have what would looked like a factory door.

Every body does it a little different it just depends on you skill and tastes.

GAry

PS Down load the generic benroy plans at the top of the page. Mike put them togeather and they have alot of info on doors and hatches. I've never done a hatch or a door from scratch. Our Trailer is a TTT not a teardrop and I used the door out of another camper.
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Postby Bender » Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:40 am

Gage wrote:Thank you...........Now, what size square tubing is that, 1" or 3/4"and how wide is that opening for the door?
Image



I bet that's a nice drive up from Springfield. ;)


As stated above, the steel tubing is 1" square, approx .083 wall thickness.
The opening for the doors are approx 32"37.5" and of course are nowhere near square.

Looks like I am gonna learn to build doors :roll:
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Postby Gage » Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:57 pm

Well, as you stated above. You've just about got everything under control, so have a good day.
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Postby Miriam C. » Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:03 pm

Bender wrote:
Gage wrote:Thank you...........Now, what size square tubing is that, 1" or 3/4"and how wide is that opening for the door?
Image



I bet that's a nice drive up from Springfield. ;)


As stated above, the steel tubing is 1" square, approx .083 wall thickness.
The opening for the doors are approx 32"37.5" and of course are nowhere near square.

Looks like I am gonna learn to build doors :roll:


Now why does that look familiar!
The first thing I would do is address the not-square doors. I would either get a welder or frame it in with wood so it is square. You might even get someone to fabricate a door frame of the same material if it isn't too heavy. Then overlay it as you do the sides.

Is that sheet of metal floor structural to the frame. If not I would get a torch or grinder and cut some of it away and put a sandwich wood floor on it. At a minimum you will need to find a way to keep the water from getting between the floor and the metal. Oh what a mess that would make.

Gage---you just need a map honey. Find Joplin and all things lead away from here. :lol: 8) Joplin is in the SW corner. Springfield is E. about an hour. Sedelia is N 2 1/2 hours then E 30 minutes. Hooterville is in Ira's dreams. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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