New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

This is the place where you can introduce yourself, and include a photo if so desired.

New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby jfalkner » Wed Mar 13, 2019 3:08 pm

I have decided to build an oversized teardrop to sleep 4. I am currently building the trailer. Hope to find some good ideas.
jfalkner
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 4:42 am

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby StrongFeather » Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:32 pm

Welcome!

You’ll find many ideas on here... that’s both good and bad.

Enjoy the ride!

Steve


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Build Journal viewtopic.php?f=50&t=71138
Composite Panel Construction Technique viewtopic.php?f=21&t=71192

If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
~Red Green
User avatar
StrongFeather
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 149
Images: 30
Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2018 4:38 am

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby jfalkner » Thu Mar 14, 2019 12:01 am

By the way, where do I find "the mix" I keep seeing references to?
jfalkner
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 4:42 am
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby StrongFeather » Thu Mar 14, 2019 8:16 pm

No idea. Sorry.
Build Journal viewtopic.php?f=50&t=71138
Composite Panel Construction Technique viewtopic.php?f=21&t=71192

If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
~Red Green
User avatar
StrongFeather
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 149
Images: 30
Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2018 4:38 am
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby tmclemore » Sun Mar 17, 2019 1:11 pm

jfalkner wrote:By the way, where do I find "the mix" I keep seeing references to?
You make it out of polyurethane and mineral spirits.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
User avatar
tmclemore
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 72
Images: 49
Joined: Tue Sep 05, 2017 3:34 pm
Location: Somewhere in Texas
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby jfalkner » Sun Mar 17, 2019 5:07 pm

tmclemore wrote:
jfalkner wrote:By the way, where do I find "the mix" I keep seeing references to?
You make it out of polyurethane and mineral spirits.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
It looks like it's for waterproofing. Do you thin it to get better penetration into the wood? Is it 75% mineral spirits to 25% oil based poly? Is the a thread for it?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
jfalkner
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 4:42 am
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby tmclemore » Mon Mar 18, 2019 10:28 am

Do a search of the site for "The Mix" and you will find many threads discussing the use of the mix. Mostly it is 50/50 and used for water proofing. Some folks start with a 75/25 mix then a 50/50 then a 25/75. I only use the 50/50 and it works great for my applications.
User avatar
tmclemore
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 72
Images: 49
Joined: Tue Sep 05, 2017 3:34 pm
Location: Somewhere in Texas
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby breb » Tue Mar 19, 2019 7:26 am

Welcome to the form. Yes I used the mix on my sheet stock . 50/50 at first 2 coats and a 3rd 25% . I used the Valspar marine exterior .
It went on like water and it doesn't take anytime to cover your material. I covered all edges . I used a bondo filler (buy at automotive store) over screw holes and then put another coat of the mix on. Covering the filled screw heads. I'm still building my project , just down for the winter here in Wisconsin. I'm thinking about doing the roof core where my insulation goes , maybe a one time coat just a preventive measure. 151342

You can see some of the blotchy marks on the side from the filler and like I said I put 3 coats over it .
Good luck with your build.
breb
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 103
Images: 103
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:06 am
Location: wisconsin
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby working on it » Tue Mar 19, 2019 10:01 am

tmclemore wrote:Do a search of the site for "The Mix" and you will find many threads discussing the use of the mix. Mostly it is 50/50 and used for water proofing. Some folks start with a 75/25 mix then a 50/50 then a 25/75. I only use the 50/50 and it works great for my applications.

* I went the full route using the "mix", with 25/75%, 50/50%, 25/75%, then finishing with 100% poly. Two coats of each, to ensure penetration (best as I can remember). I didn't do it this way without reason, though, but because I was violating the instructions, and coating the previously un-prepped bare plywood (it was pre-sanded, with phenolic resin between plies, so all I did was wipe it down with thinner, to remove dust/fingerprint oils from construction) in direct sun, in 106-110 degree heat.

* The "mix" was soaking in so fast that I wanted to make sure it was not just evaporating, but truly penetrating the wood. Each successive layer took me under a half-hour, and it was complete before dark (started after noon). The end result looked so good that I almost wished I hadn't already planned for (and bought) three different top-coat paints to cover it, since I used Minwax Fast-Drying poly -not UV protective-.
at end of poly coating, day one.jpg
at end of poly coating, day one.jpg (83.65 KiB) Viewed 920 times

* I pushed it back inside the shop, where it cured for a week, then top-coated the poly with "Massey Ferguson Grey" Valspar Tractor & Implement Enamel (on sides and lower front), Valspar Heavy-Duty Aluminum Paint (reflective "silo" covering, for upper front, roof, and hatch)), and Rustoleum Black Enamel for edges. Same conditions applied, very hot & sunny, and the results were great. I let it cure another week before I touched the trailer again.
starting the grey and silver topcoats.jpg
starting the grey and silver topcoats.jpg (106.02 KiB) Viewed 920 times

* Since it was painted in 2012, I've re-touched the front slope and rear hatch, to cover-up incidental contact blemishes/road damage, but there's never been a hint of paint/poly failure, water leakage, or chalking, in the 6.5 years since then. I think the use of the "mix" is the best prep you can do for a plywood surface, better than any wood primer I've ever used. I violated logic in the way I applied the coatings, but it worked!
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2150+ lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
156215157958148599
User avatar
working on it
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1917
Images: 455
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:05 pm
Location: DFW Texas
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby jfalkner » Tue Mar 19, 2019 10:29 am

working on it wrote:
tmclemore wrote:Do a search of the site for "The Mix" and you will find many threads discussing the use of the mix. Mostly it is 50/50 and used for water proofing. Some folks start with a 75/25 mix then a 50/50 then a 25/75. I only use the 50/50 and it works great for my applications.

* I went the full route using the "mix", with 25/75%, 50/50%, 25/75%, then finishing with 100% poly. Two coats of each, to ensure penetration (best as I can remember). I didn't do it this way without reason, though, but because I was violating the instructions, and coating the previously un-prepped bare plywood (it was pre-sanded, with phenolic resin between plies, so all I did was wipe it down with thinner, to remove dust/fingerprint oils from construction) in direct sun, in 106-110 degree heat.

* The "mix" was soaking in so fast that I wanted to make sure it was not just evaporating, but truly penetrating the wood. Each successive layer took me under a half-hour, and it was complete before dark (started after noon). The end result looked so good that I almost wished I hadn't already planned for (and bought) three different top-coat paints to cover it, since I used Minwax Fast-Drying poly -not UV protective-.
at end of poly coating, day one.jpg

* I pushed it back inside the shop, where it cured for a week, then top-coated the poly with "Massey Ferguson Grey" Valspar Tractor & Implement Enamel (on sides and lower front), Valspar Heavy-Duty Aluminum Paint (reflective "silo" covering, for upper front, roof, and hatch)), and Rustoleum Black Enamel for edges. Same conditions applied, very hot & sunny, and the results were great. I let it cure another week before I touched the trailer again.
starting the grey and silver topcoats.jpg

* Since it was painted in 2012, I've re-touched the front slope and rear hatch, to cover-up incidental contact blemishes/road damage, but there's never been a hint of paint/poly failure, water leakage, or chalking, in the 6.5 years since then. I think the use of the "mix" is the best prep you can do for a plywood surface, better than any wood primer I've ever used. I violated logic in the way I applied the coatings, but it worked!
Thank you so much for the insight. I'm close to being done with my trailer, so getting ready for starting the floor.

So did you mean 25/75, 50/50 and then 75/25? Or did you go back to the thinner mixture?

What kind off siding did you use, that looks like pine?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
jfalkner
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 4:42 am
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby jfalkner » Tue Mar 19, 2019 10:55 am

breb wrote:Welcome to the form. Yes I used the mix on my sheet stock . 50/50 at first 2 coats and a 3rd 25% . I used the Valspar marine exterior .
It went on like water and it doesn't take anytime to cover your material. I covered all edges . I used a bondo filler (buy at automotive store) over screw holes and then put another coat of the mix on. Covering the filled screw heads. I'm still building my project , just down for the winter here in Wisconsin. I'm thinking about doing the roof core where my insulation goes , maybe a one time coat just a preventive measure. 151342

You can see some of the blotchy marks on the side from the filler and like I said I put 3 coats over it .
Good luck with your build.
Breb,
What kind of wood did you use to bend around your corners? What radius's are your corners. I'm thinking of a Benroy style with 24" radius front and back.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
jfalkner
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 4:42 am
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby working on it » Tue Mar 19, 2019 11:20 am

jfalkner wrote:Thank you so much for the insight. I'm close to being done with my trailer, so getting ready for starting the floor.

So did you mean 25/75, 50/50 and then 75/25? Or did you go back to the thinner mixture?

What kind off siding did you use, that looks like pine?....

* I started with 25% poly/75% thinner, then 50/50, then 75/25 poly/thinner, then full strength polyurethane. Using more thinner content penetrates deeper, and dries off faster, but leaves poly inside the wood. Eventually, it "plasticizes" and waterproofs the exterior layer (or penetrates through, and seals any interior gaps in the bonding resin of the plywood).
* It wasn't siding, but a "Radiata pine" plywood I got for $25 per 4x8 sheet: "Arauco" 3/4" plywood, which their website said had minimal face & back repairs, pre-sanded front & back, and used a phenolic resin (impervious to water & most common chemicals). Not as hard a plywood as the birch I started my floor with (topped with Luan), but since the wood was to be coated with many layers of poly, & outdoor equipment-type enamel, I'm sure it is as hard or harder now than before.
* There's been no sign of deterioration, as I stated, so the discounted plywood turned out as good as the birch plywood I had intended to use (I only had one sheet to start, but bought six substitute/additional sheets, used for exterior & interior, both) to complete the trailer.
Araucoply sanded plywood, .703 thickness, with phenolic resin bonded core.JPG
Araucoply sanded plywood, .703 thickness, with phenolic resin bonded core.JPG (82.17 KiB) Viewed 896 times
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2150+ lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
156215157958148599
User avatar
working on it
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1917
Images: 455
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:05 pm
Location: DFW Texas
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby breb » Tue Mar 19, 2019 1:15 pm

Now you have me scratching my head. The orginal layout on brown rapping paper , full size was transferred to 1/8th ply template and then refined from the original print to a free style curve. I have that pic some where just not in my gallery here. Here you can see visually what the sweeping curve looks like.156184 at the back. Not to sure if you are talking about bending the 1/8" ply for the interior roof . I didn't bend any corners with ply. We might not be on the same page. My walls stand 52" high which I got out of the 5x5 foot sheet Baltic Birch material I used. Out side wall was 1/2" BB 3/4"poplar core and 1/4" BB interior wall.150143
breb
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 103
Images: 103
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:06 am
Location: wisconsin
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby jfalkner » Tue Mar 19, 2019 2:52 pm

breb wrote:Now you have me scratching my head. The orginal layout on brown rapping paper , full size was transferred to 1/8th ply template and then refined from the original print to a free style curve. I have that pic some where just not in my gallery here. Here you can see visually what the sweeping curve looks like.156184 at the back. Not to sure if you are talking about bending the 1/8" ply for the interior roof . I didn't bend any corners with ply. We might not be on the same page. My walls stand 52" high which I got out of the 5x5 foot sheet Baltic Birch material I used. Out side wall was 1/2" BB 3/4"poplar core and 1/4" BB interior wall.150143
I was referring to the wood or material used for making your curved ceiling and roofing.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
jfalkner
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 4:42 am
Top

Re: New member in Houston Tx (Kingwood) area

Postby breb » Tue Mar 19, 2019 4:35 pm

Jkfalkner Thank you . Yes as I referred to the 1/8" Baltic Birch ply. I had my spars installed and I slipped the interior ceiling ply through the spars and inside. The width of the trailer was held inside to a close tolerance so the fit was close. I ran a couple of beads on the inside face of the spars and used braces to help position and 1/4" crown staples on the sides to fasten. Where the next piece joins I have a seem
and I used again 1/4" crown on either side of the seem with the same loctite PL 300 Premium . Side note ( I do note like the PL 8 to brittle when it sets up) A trim piece of !/8th ply about 2.5 " wide covers the seem.
breb
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 103
Images: 103
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:06 am
Location: wisconsin
Top


Return to Newbies, Introduce yourselves

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests