Couple of questions about a 7x14 conversion.

[larrystotler]

Ok, I've been looking around the sites, and I don't really see a design like I am considering. Here's what I am thinking for my base:

7x14 Single Axle Sharp V-Nose trailer. Like this one: http://diamondcargo.com/7x14-Single-Axl ... 16828.aspx

I decided to spec a single axle because I don't plan on adding over 1500lbs of weight, and with most basic units weighing around 14-1500lbs and a max total weight of 3500 lbs, then I don't think a tandem would be needed. And 7x14 seems to be the max for single axle.

My basic idea is to use it only as a camper(I have pickup trucks for hauling) so here's what I was thinking:

1. Use the V-Nose for the shower toilet area with it coming into the box approx 12-18 inches. Probably have the toilet on the left side and maybe a 12-20 inch cabinet on the right side for water tank storage and pump area. Run the shower head in the center of the V with the pipe and knobs on the wall.

2. Cabinets & fridges on the left wall opposite the door starting where the shower area ends and going back about 6-7 feet.

3. Fold up Full size bed along the back wall with a couch under it and storage under the couch) Probably will delete the back door as well.

Not really looking for windows, maybe a skylight. roof vent.

Now, on to the questions:

1. How much of an AC unit do you really need? I'd only have about 85 square feet to cool. I can't imagine needing the 13.500 BTU units I see everywhere. Wouldn't a 5000 BTU be plenty for a small space like this? Is a ceiling mount better than a wall mount(wall mount being much cheaper). Will probably have a fresh air fan in the ceiling for use after dark to lower energy usage as well.

2. Heating - I've seen electric(great for when you have full power available) and propane type(one guy used a 6 gal propane heater and ran it through a radiator with a 12" fan and it seemed to be enough for a small space).

3. Hot Water - I'd prefer an on-demand system, which is why I'm thinking propane would be the best. Especially when you don't have full AC Power.

4. Batteries - I'm looking at some solar options but most power usage would be minimal with no AC. Enough to run the water pump and LCD lighting, TV and to recharge my laptop. How many batteries do you need for around 2000Watts for up to 8 hours?(max usage case for AC/Heat - say a 1500Watt radiator type heater).

5. Weight distribution - I was thinking of having the waste water tanks(one for toilet, one for shower/sink) in the frame under the floor and the fresh water tank(25-50 gals) on the right side near the front(to help offset the weight of the cabinets on the left. How uneven can you get before you start having stability problems pulling it.

I'm really looking for max floor space(hence the fold up bed and probably fold down table) instead of overloading with stuff. I've laid out my ideas with some 1x2x7's I have and the open space really appeals to me. My goal would be able to drive around the country for a couple months and have the option to stay in a campground or a parking lot(walmart, etc). I would be using a dakota club cab for pulling it with a camper shell so I don't need to put everything in the trailer(bicycles, tools, etc can go in the truck).

I'm not against cutting into the sides or top(or having it already there when I order it), I'm also wanting to keep costs as low as possible(used cabinets, etc). I've seen some of theese builds go over 10K not including the trailer. My goal would be around $5k including the price of the trailer(2500-3k). Am I being realistic?(I have access to free/cheap cabinets and a lot of the supplies I will need) I'm not looking to build a Taj Mahal but a very low cost practical camper.

Probably will see if I can get it without the inside/floor/ceiling panels installed so I can insulate as well.

Any feedback welcomed. Thanx

[hankaye]

larrystotler, Howdy;

Welcome to the forum!

I have a 6X14, upgraded the axle to a 5K so that I would have trailer brakes and the 7-way plug.
To me, that is important as I don't want the trailer trying to pass me when I'm trying to stop and
the plug allows me the option of connecting the truck's charging system to "top off" the trailer's
battery while I'm traveling. or just when it needs it while camping. Adds a bit to the price tag but,
to me, worth every penny.
Looking forward to seeing what you do with what you get.

hank

[Padilen]

Not sure if it's an issue for you but if that pic is actual trailer it's a 12' In that pic. I can see 3 panels x4 =12.
I found when I was shopping some dealers (& builders) include the v when measuring. There isn't a standard for how they come up with sizes. I have a 7x12x7 that's the outside measurement of the "box". Then the v is about 2'. Total length with tongue is about 16'. Mine is all aluminum at about 1550lbs before conversion.
Having 16" on center framing made plumbing my toilet/ shower pan combo a challenge. I refuse to cut any so windows are another challenge I'll be facing.
I can't help with batteries solar or AC. I used deep cycle 12 volt and portable AC no solar.
My trailer cost about your budget before any mods. But starting with a cheaper trailer you'll use that budget and get a usable camper. I did mine as cheap as I could and have about 2000$ into mods.
3500 lbs axles, in my state require brakes so I have them.

[NO David!]

Hi Larry,

Where to begin? Let's start with Welcome to the madness!

Veterans will soon tire of my normal responses, but when I see a post like this, I instantly start thinking of builds that would work, or ideas that I liked so much, that I think everybody should do it that way. Well here you go...

-Buy a trailer at least 2' longer than you think you need.
-I bought tandem axles only for the better ride over bumps vs single axle
-Don't discount the value of windows, it makes all the difference in camping in a coffin vs. the back porch, (light and ventilation).
-I used a 5,000 BTU window unit for A/C, with a proper insulated trailer, it works wonders
-Only get a V-nose for space considerations, reports of almost no advantage in fuel mileage are rampant.
-Fantastic vent fan or equal in place of one of your two rooftop vents, (you did spec two right?)
-Modular design for floor space? consider vertical E-Track.
-Go ahead and order a factory installed 36" wide RV style door, this is so worth it!
-use blue tape and layout your plans on a garage floor or driveway etc. in the footprint of your trailer.
-take a trip or two before finalizing your build, you'll be amazed at what won't work or will.

Here's my favorites that may suit your use targets if you haven't already seen them:
Gonefishin 6x12 Window placement, simple solar, awesome decor, goes everywhere, does everything, simply.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=33924

WA 7x12 single axle, this one sold a while back, but I borrowed lots from his build, what's not to like?
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=40504

Gadgetman 7x14 tandem, this one is more than I could do, but it really works.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=45992

Last, here's my humble offering, designed to camp, haul toys, and convert back to a full trailer if needed.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345

Edit to add window A/C discussions:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=49438
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=50223

I've just about stopped putting stuff in the tow vehicle, I just load the trailer based on the upcoming trip, hookup and go.

I still find it hard to wade through all of the posts to find builds related to my (or the newcomer's) interest, so that's why you hear from my list.

[larrystotler]

larrystotler, Howdy;I have a 6X14, upgraded the axle to a 5K so that I would have trailer brakes and the 7-way plug.
To me, that is important as I don't want the trailer trying to pass me when I'm trying to stop and
the plug allows me the option of connecting the truck's charging system to "top off" the trailer's
battery while I'm traveling. or just when it needs it while camping. Adds a bit to the price tag but,
to me, worth every penny.

I own and regularly use a Kar Kraft II tow dolly. It weighs about 500lbs, and I've pulled 400lb vehicles with my Dakota without issue, which is why I'm not looking at brakes.

My main goal is function and usability. I don't intend to haul anything in it other than what I need for living use. My goal is to top out at 3000lbs loaded.

As for power, I'm looking into solar long term. When I'm off grid(like walmart) would probably use deep cycle batteries and recharge when I have grid available.

Good suggestions tho.

[larrystotler]

-Buy a trailer at least 2' longer than you think you need.
-I bought tandem axles only for the better ride over bumps vs single axle
-Don't discount the value of windows, it makes all the difference in camping in a coffin vs. the back porch, (light and ventilation).
-I used a 5,000 BTU window unit for A/C, with a proper insulated trailer, it works wonders
-Only get a V-nose for space considerations, reports of almost no advantage in fuel mileage are rampant.
-Fantastic vent fan or equal in place of one of your two rooftop vents, (you did spec two right?)
-Modular design for floor space? consider vertical E-Track.
-Go ahead and order a factory installed 36" wide RV style door, this is so worth it!
-use blue tape and layout your plans on a garage floor or driveway etc. in the footprint of your trailer.
-take a trip or two before finalizing your build, you'll be amazed at what won't work or will..

The 7x14 is larger than my original idea of a 6x12. I mocked it up with 1x2x7's and some plywood braced vertical to get a feel for the size. The 7x14 gave more room for minimal increase in price. A friend has a 6x10 and I've looked over it and pulled it so I'm familiar with the ride. I had thought about splitting it in half, but didn't like how crowded it was. I've lived in small motel rooms over the years, so my needs are few when it comes to stuff. The fold up bed for a larger living area is my main idea to increase usable space.

I like the V-nose for the shower/toilet area. I've seen others put it along the wall or across the front with a flat nose and it takes up more room than I want.

Cheap cabinets & sink, full size mattress on fold up platform, cheap 5000 btu AC unit, fridge and microwave. I liked the one link that had the door open for the AC. I might expand on that. Or I saw one somewhere where the AC was on a track to slide out and back in. Probably use household AC wiring(friend is an electrician so it will be correct). I don't even know if I will bother with a TV. I have a 17" laptop for watching movies on.

Storage needs are simple - clothes, towels, food, dishes(probably paper/plastic), elc.

I'm not a big fan of windows. I usually have heavy drapes over mine. I'm pretty private and don't like people looking in. If I need daylight/air, I can open the door or go outside. I'd like to have a screen door on the inside of the side door.

I haven't settled on one just yet. I need to call a few companies and see what kinda price I can get and what options they have. I'm only 5'8" so an 6'3" - 6'6" is tall enough.

[m.colley]

I'd like to have a screen door on the inside of the side door.

I looked at this option on my 7x16 and decided against it, mainly due to price differences. NOW I could kick myself in the A** for not having it installed. If you price it with vs without the RV screen door, just go ahead and spend the money. I would have got better use out of it then the window I had installed at build time.

I liked the one link that had the door open for the AC. I might expand on that. Or I saw one somewhere where the AC was on a track to slide out and back in

If you know where you want the AC to be located prior to your build, have the factory "frame and brace" it for your AC at build time, it won't cost much.


Just my .02 worth.

Martin

[larrystotler]

I looked at this option on my 7x16 and decided against it, mainly due to price differences. NOW I could kick myself in the A** for not having it installed. If you price it with vs without the RV screen door, just go ahead and spend the money. I would have got better use out of it then the window I had installed at build time.

I've been looking at diamondcargo.com's options. The RV style 32" door wiht screen is a $275 upgrade.

If you know where you want the AC to be located prior to your build, have the factory "frame and brace" it for your AC at build time, it won't cost much.

Base price for the 7x14 on their site is $2450. Interior Dimensions are 75" inside height and 80" inside width(just wide enough for a full size bed)

When I add the following upgrades:

RV Style door - $275
Insulated Ceiling - $196
Insulated Walls - $252
4 foot V-Nose - $200(didn't see this at first & not sure if its worth it. Will have to lay it out to see if it makes enough of a difference for my shower plan)

Brings me to $3373. Having the walls & Ceiling insulated by them would probably be almost as cheap as I can do it and will save a lot of time. I was originally going to try to run the wiring in the walls, but after looking at the designs of these things I think I will just use conduit instead. Most of the wiring will be concentrated around the cabinet area anyway.

[larrystotler]

Ok, weight distribution is a key concern of mine(I work in the shipping dept and load trucks). Having the bed along the back wall and probably a u-shaped couch under it will add weight at the back of the trailer. Cabinets along the driver's side wall in front of the axle will help balance it. I've been looking and I found a 75 gallon vertical water tank that's 23" across & 4 foot tall. Now, 75 gallons of water is about 600 lbs. That would help distribute weight on the passenger side wall near the front. I also plan to install a grey water tank under the floor for the shower(again on the passenger side mostly) and a black water tank under the floor under the toilet. Probably have about 60 gallons of grey water storage and maybe 10-15 gallons of black. Best practice will probably be to not refill the potable tank until I drain the waste tanks.

Now, my main concern is tongue weight not overall weight so much. Will 600 lbs of water be offset decently by the rest of the weight? Only things along the passenger wall will be the water tank(s), side door, and a fold down table in front of the axle. The bed frame and couch frame will probably be 1x2s with 1/4" plywood to save weight(and I get them free from work).

[larrystotler]

One of the reasons I am looking at a 4 foot V-nose is to put the shower in the nose. The Shower area is probably one of the larger space hogging areas.

I've been looking at a Neo-Angle pan. It seems like this is a good layout. With the 4' V, I'm under 90 degrees, so I would probably have to build walls instead of using the trailer walls as the shower walls. This allows more space for plumbing, wiring, and insulation.

I was thinking about putting the toilet in the shower area, but I think that it would rate it's own room(another space hog as well). Personally. I'd rather have a urinal as well......

Does anyone have a neo-angle shower? Is it a comfortable layout? They seem to have pans from 32" to 48" and longer for the main sides. (cheapest on homedepot.com is $165 for a 39x39" that's 35lbs.).

Thoughts?