Electrical question

[tanukihimself]

Build is coming along on a 7x14x7ft tall trailer. We are stuck on the electrical and need help figuring out what to do about the electrical. We have some 12/2 romex ran for a couple outlets and some led puck lights. I figure at the very most we will have a few lights on, maybe a small dorm type fridge/freezer running, couple phones charging, and maybe maybe eventually a small a/c running.

How many Watts and amps should I prepare for for the trailer? I will have a couple deep cycle batteries that ill wanna charge when on shore power and ill prolly want a breaker box and a switch to change from shore power to battery automatically.

Thanks in advance for the reply. This is starting to make more sense

[Esteban]

Link to purchase a Progressive Dynamics 4045 Power Converter: http://teardroptrailerparts.com/Power_Converters.html

Industry's smallest all-in-one 45 Amp distribution panel/converter system.

Available with exclusive built-in Inteli-Power Converter...

"The most reliable converter in the RV Industry."

The AC distribution Panel is rated for 120 VAC @ 30 Amps
with up to 7 branch circuits.

The DC section has 12 branch fuse holders, two wired to
accommodate 30 Amp fuses, ten more with a maximum rating
up to 20 Amps each. All wire tail connections.

Exclusive hot buss and DC disconnect tie in.

Reverse battery blown fuse indicator.

Inteli-Power 4000 Mighty Mini models can recharge the battery to 90% of full charge.

BOOST Mode 14.4 Volts - Rapidly brings RV battery up to 90% of full charge.
NORMAL Mode 13.6 Volts - Safely completes the charge.
STORAGE Mode 13.2 Volts - Maintains charge with minimal gassing or water loss.
EQUALIZATION Mode 14.4 Volts - Every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes prevents battery stratification & sulfation - the leading cause of battery failure.

[MatthewWorks]

I second using the PD4045. There's a thousand ways you can do this... the PD4045 might be a bit of overkill, but it's everything, in one place, and keeps things simple. I played with every different idea, and kept coming back to this. If you need to upgrade/add to your electrical you'll have the ability to do so.

I want it all to be simple, less to worry about, less to do each trip. Along the lines of "it just works".

[John61CT]

An AC fridge off an inverter will pull a LOT more AH per day than a proper unit designed to run efficiently off DC.

If you're back on shore power very frequently then just need bigger batteries, but boondocking for days would require lots more solar and/or generator usage.

Check out Engel.

Even a small A/C running on DC will require a huge battery bank, LOTS of solar, and likely fossil fuel generation as well.

[Esteban]

I advise installing a 100 watt or larger capacity solar panel onto a teardrop or tiny camper. Solar power frees you from the need to plug into shore power every few days or to run a generator and makes boondocking much easier. I also favor having an ac/dc fridge/freezer in the camper. Truckfridge.com sells three of the most affordable portable chest style fridge/freezers. Using solar power to keep a battery charged and using an ac/dc fridge freezer is a sweet combination that makes camping much more enjoyable.

They each require an initial up front investment that substantially reduces ongoing camping costs for electricity, fuel, full hookup camping fees, ice and wasted food. It may also reduce the need to pay rent a motel or hotel as well as saving some of the cost to eat at restaurants.

Up above I suggested buying a PD 4045 which will work well with solar power and an ac/dc fridge/freezer. I also favor using a high efficiency mppt solar controller. Victron/Blue Solar makes some of the most affordable ones. They are sold by Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BlueSola ... B00U3MK0CI

[tanukihimself]

So the PD4045 has a converter and charger built in? I do plan on having some solar panels as panels as well so thanks for that solar controller rec.

Esteban: would you suggest the batteries I would need to work with this PD4045 panel please. Just forget I said anything about the a/c as I won't be worried about one for a while.

[John61CT]

If you have room, no better value $/AH than 6v "Duracell" (actually East Penn/Deka) GC2s from Batteries+ or Sam's Club, each pair 200+AH for < $200.

Cosco version nearly as good.

Completely ignore anything else labeled "deep cycle" or "marine" sold in big box or automotive channels, especially 12V that mentions a CCA rating.

[tanukihimself]

This CT will be my home. I expect I will be somewhere with steady power eventually but boondocking sometimes as well. I don't foresee spending a lot of time indoors unless its to sleep so I just want a manageable electronics system that's not too complicated but that I can add on to if need be, the PD4045 sounds like a good start if it has everything in one spot.

What else would I need besides the PD4045?

[Esteban]

I'm rebuilding my teardrop and haven't purchased a battery yet. I plan to buy a 12 volt AGM battery in the 100 to 125 AH range. My need for one in that range is largely because I intend to use an ac/dc fridge/freezer in the galley. My teardrop will have a 12 volt 160 watt solar panel mounted on the roof to (re)charge my teardrop's battery. Oregon Trail'R Teardrop trailers who I highly respect recommend and sell VMAX Tank Maintenance Free AGM Batteries.

Here is another website with the whole range of VMAX Tank batteries: https://www.vmaxtanks.com/Campers-and-Rvs_c_37.html They are sold on Amazon.com too.

Lifeline RV batteries are very high quality (and pricey). If price were no object (yeah right!) I'd really like to have a Lifeline 125AH GPL-31XT in my teardrop.

I'll probably buy a VMAX Tank MR137-120 Deep Cycle, High performance AGM Battery which costs $260.99 (discounted price) with free shipping.

[Shadow Catcher]

Long story but I ended up with a 185W high voltage panel intended for a grid tie system (70 V open circuit) which required an MPPT controller, Moringstar Sun Saver which feeds a 150AH Lifeline AGM battery. The up side is that I get usable current from sun up to sun down and with a shaded panel.

[Esteban]

tanukihimself,

With all the roof space of your 7'x 14' trailer you could install several solar panels.

Or maybe install one $299.99 265 watt solar panel from Home Depot. It looks like its a 24 volt panel.

The Grape Solar 265-Watt Polycrystalline PV Solar Panel uses high efficiency solar cells (approximately 19%) made from quality silicon material for high module conversion efficiency, long term output stability, and reliability. Virtually maintenance free. High transmittance, low iron tempered glass for durability and enhanced impact resistance.

Positive power tolerance (0 to +5-Watt)
Anti-reflective and anti-soiling surface reduces power loss from dirt and dust
Outstanding performance in low-light irradiances environments
Certified to withstand high wind and snow loads
100% electroluminescence inspection ensures modules are defect free
Positive and negative leads equipped with MC4-comparable connectors
When charging 12-Volt battery systems with this panel, an MPPT charge controller must be used

Pair it with a $99 Victron BlueSolar 75/15 MPPT Charge Controller - 15 Amps / 75 Volts which can be used with a 24 volt solar panel rated up to 400 watts.

Used together with a battery of your choice and you'd have a very robust solar powered electrical system. There would be plenty of power for led lights, a fridge/freezer, stereo, tv, usb outlets, etc.

[hankaye]

tanukihimself, Howdy;

This CT will be my home. I expect I will be somewhere with steady power eventually but boondocking sometimes as well. I don't foresee spending a lot of time indoors unless its to sleep so I just want a manageable electronics system that's not too complicated but that I can add on to if need be, the PD4045 sounds like a good start if it has everything in one spot.

What else would I need besides the PD4045?

I know from nothing about electricity/Solar and anything else in that area. However, my Pop always said that
"if you have a question go ask an expert."
Here's 2. The first is open year round the second says he's closed April through Sept. I would try his email to see if he
will sell online and you can do the assembly. Same about the assembly for the first one. Both have a huge amount of
information that you may find helpful.

http://amsolar.com/
&
http://www.discountsolar.com/

edit: I should also mention that these folks are not only 'Pros", but they also want to take your money, it's their job ...
one of our fellow ctc modifiers memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=13573
used the 1st option and I talked to someone that has used the 2ed option.
Both were extremely happy with their choices and both full-time in their units.

disclaimer: I have zero interest in either linked resource.

hank

[defjr333]

What works for one person is not always the best option for others. A converter is not always the best route. For my system, which is VERY similar to your stated use of living in CT will NOT have a converter. I chose to use a better Inverter with a built in charger and transfer switch:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/AIMS-Power-3 ... r/50754204

From there the AC and DC goes to this:

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD5000-30- ... QT7Mty1vIU

Looks similar to Progressive Dynamics converters because it is made by PD just no charger built in.This gives me 30Amp to 70Amp service, built in transfer when hooked to AC shore or generator, 3 stage monitored battery charging, and powerful enough to run even an AC unit( though that would eat up AHs in your battery bank) I recommend going with a 12vdc/ 120vac fridge:

http://truckfridge.com/tf130acdc.html

Pricey equipment, but will be set for any power requirements. VERY easy to install this setup. Mine is matched with 4 315W solar panels and mppt charger. The entire electrical system is set up in my garage for testing. I am SUPER happy with the quality, future expansion if needed, and ease of use. Set and forget...All my equipment is 12v except for ac unit and microwave. I went this route so EVERYTHING works automatically when boondocking OR on shore. I also recommend Duracell C2s for battery bank. I went with 8 just for overkill. Batteries Plus had them for $85 each plus core. Greatest part is inverter has built in generator start feature that will kick that on with touch of button from inside CT! So if boondocking and i want to use AC or microwave, i just press a button on the display panel.

[tanukihimself]

Thanks defjr333, good info. So with the setup you explained, which sounds perfect, where can you plug into shore power? Where does that fit into the equation?

[defjr333]

Even tho the inverter/ charger can handle 60amps+ input, I opted for only a 30 amp shore plug as 1 I do not see me needing more than 30, and 2 most of my charging will be via solar. It is a lil expensive setup and could be done for less, but I will be living in mine as well and wanted to be CERTAIN my electrical system was robust. If I do plug into shore power I have a dongle that will allow for as low as a 15 amp input for regular outlets. Hope that helps wrap your head around it some