E-track question

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

E-track question

Postby mlowry7 » Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:14 am

Just purchased an 8x16 lark. It has the Z style wall studs. I want to run queen bunks in the back. Are the Z-studs strong enough the hold the beds with 2 average size adults on bottom and 1 or 2 children on top? I'd be running e-track for the 2x4 support hangers. Also, is there any reason to run a full length of track, or can i use the single e-tracks just where I need the 2x4 runners? Thanks!
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Re: E-track question

Postby NO David! » Thu Apr 12, 2018 12:41 pm

I used vertical e-track attached one side to my 1" square tubing studs, the other side through the plywood, resting the track on the bottom trim of the trailer. With horizontal track, I'd use longer sections, spreading the attachment points across several of your z-studs to share the load.

More discussion here:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=62448&p=1116093&hilit=etrack#p1116093
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Re: E-track question

Postby working on it » Thu Apr 12, 2018 4:04 pm

mlowry7 wrote:Just purchased an 8x16 lark. It has the Z style wall studs. I want to run queen bunks in the back. Are the Z-studs strong enough the hold the beds with 2 average size adults on bottom and 1 or 2 children on top? I'd be running e-track for the 2x4 support hangers. Also, is there any reason to run a full length of track, or can i use the single e-tracks just where I need the 2x4 runners? Thanks!
  • I've used a small (2 ft.) horizontal E-track for strapping items inside my TTT, and larger ones inside semi-trailers to secure much heavier loads from movement, and have used them to stack lighter loads on top of horizontal load bars, too. In my trailer, the E-track & straps only need to keep the items (2 Aquatainers and a large cooler) from shifting or sliding around, as the straps/load bars/E-track keep loads from shifting/sliding inside a semi-trailer. In both cases, the majority of the weight/load is borne by the trailer floor, which the load is sitting on, not by the wall attachment points. My TTT's E-track is simply glued/screwed to 3/4" plywood, and in the semi-trailers, they are screwed to the thin plywood inner walls, and to metal studs, like in your trailer. Those trailers are designed for this method, and those stacked loads use many horizontal load bars under them, to spread the load out, lessening the strain on studs and walls.
  • I don't know how strong your vertical E-tracks-to-Z-studs will be, and whether or not your trailer walls/ inner structure could support the weight of your bed, when occupied, but I would put vertical support leg(s) underneath the frame rails, for added strength. The support(s) underneath, 2x4's, will easily hold the weight, and the E-track/wall stud will not bear the full weight, but mainly serve to keep the bed level and steady, and eliminate sideplay. You could use a bracket to make a slide-in (under?) mount for the leg, or permanent with the same bracket (joist hanger), or with a sturdy hinge.
  • frame rail supports.png
    frame rail supports.png (40.26 KiB) Viewed 726 times
  • concealed-face joist hanger.JPG
    concealed-face joist hanger.JPG (171.18 KiB) Viewed 726 times
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
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Re: E-track question

Postby mlowry7 » Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:45 pm

Thanks! great idea on the support legs. What would you suggest for top bunk?
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Re: E-track question

Postby working on it » Sat Apr 14, 2018 12:46 am

mlowry7 wrote:Thanks! great idea on the support legs. What would you suggest for top bunk?
  • Same leg support system, stacking one level atop the other, but with a different material used. Assuming that the bottom bunk support leg(s) are assembled first, then a simple 1" diameter oak dowel (with simple wooden dowel pins glued into each end) could be easily inserted into shallow holes drilled into the top of the bottom rail, and on the bottom side of the top bunk rail (preferably directly over the floor support leg).
  • 1" diameter oak dowels are extremely strong, will easily hold nearly as much weight as the softer 2x4 material support legs, are round (so that incidental contact by the lower bunk's occupants will not be as abrasive), and will not need permanent attachment to the rails. The oak dowel supports could rest inside slightly countersunk inlets on the topside of the lower bunk bed framerail, if only for added stability, and to keep skin or bedding from getting caught if there is much flex during the night. Of course, being a bolt-together type of redneck engineer, I would use lynch pins, or actual bolts, to ensure more rigidity...but then, that's just my way.
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
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Re: E-track question

Postby phoenixbound » Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:14 am

I didn't go with bunk beds, but I did use eTracks. I have to haul my Tri-Glide, so I need almost the full width when hauling. The plan is bed raised and locked with Tri-Glide under when traveling, at campsite unload Tri-Glide and lower bed to needed height, when we get ready to leave raise bed and load Tri-Glide. I have setup some pulleys and ropes so that one man could do the lift or lower. Honestly, it will be easier with two men. But, that is not always possible. I used 2 eTracks on each side with beam holders. I plan to give it a test going to Sturgis this year. The bed is a 10" memory foam that I happened onto, very soft.

bed mounted.jpg
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Re: E-track question

Postby Vspec » Sun Apr 15, 2018 6:23 pm

Because I did wanted the bed to be easily deconstructed, I went with horizontal e-track. I was able to hit 3 of the wall studs. When I open the walls to put insulation I will a horizontal piece of aluminium so the e-track can be fully supported. That being said, I have not encountered any issues yet. The bed is a queen is width wise with a tri fold memory foam mattress.
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Re: E-track question

Postby Iconfabul8 » Mon Apr 16, 2018 7:53 am

phoenixbound wrote: The bed is a 10" memory foam that I happened onto, very soft.
bed mounted.jpg

Vspec wrote:The bed is a queen is width wise with a tri fold memory foam mattress.

Either of you have links to these awesome sounding mattresses?
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Re: E-track question

Postby phoenixbound » Mon Apr 16, 2018 9:53 am

I looked it up on Amazon a while back. Nice thing about the foam was that you can cut it down on length or width if you need to. My wife and I cut quite a bit off of the bottom. Looking forward to sleeping on it.

LUCID 10 Inch Gel Memory Foam Mattress - Dual-Layered - CertiPUR-US Certified - 10-Year Warranty - Full

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00478U79U/re ... 5883642913
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Re: E-track question

Postby working on it » Mon Apr 16, 2018 1:59 pm

phoenixbound wrote: The bed is a 10" memory foam that I happened onto, very soft.
bed mounted.jpg

Vspec wrote:The bed is a queen is width wise with a tri fold memory foam mattress.
phoenixbound wrote:Nice thing about the foam was that you can cut it down on length or width if you need to.
  • I'm not trying to side-track the thread, but once you start altering your mattress to fit, or for ease of use, then you might make it not what you envisioned in the first place, inadvertently. By saying you, I meant me!
  • I have a 4x8, which probably would fit inside one of the cargo conversion trailers, but it was big enough for a good 4" thick foam mattress. My wife made a custom fitted sheet set for it. Then I added another 4" mattress on top (not really for me, but a last-ditch attempt to get the wife to come along with me on camping trips!), which then required refitting the sheet set, and I added waterproof covers underneath the sheets, just in case there would be any water entry. There was an incident where I failed to shut/seal a door during a monsoon-like day at camp, which allowed 1" of water inside the cabin; the waterproof mattress covers did their job, but everything else was wet!
  • Going forward, overthinking a simple fix, I installed a plastic grid underneath the mattresses, to raise them above any possible water on the floor, and a 5-mil plastic moving bag over the mattresses for extra protection, cut out a section of foam on the top mattress (to enable me to open a wall/floor cabinet that got covered up by the addition of the second mattress), and re-did the sheet set once more. Moving both mattresses in and out of the trailer a dozen times, having to get my wife to help me put the sheets on each time, and having to use ratchet straps to hold the mattresses in place (folded in half to allow room inside the cabin, for transporting coolers and gear), wasn't easy to do, but I became resigned to having to struggle with it, over the years. Until my last outing.....
  • On that trip, I couldn't sleep very well, on the extremely slick interface of sheet-on-plastic, and the altered top mattress (cut apart for ease of folding) that kept sliding away from where it would support my bad back. My modifications to what once was a comfortable sleeping place had ruined it.
  • So, I returned to square one, by simplifying it all: only the plastic grid remains (and pillows, of course); the multiple waterproof mattress covers, twin+twin foam mattresses, comforters, fitted sheet sets...all thrown away or re-purposed elsewhere. I bought a tri-fold 4" mattress, the firmest one I could find, with a water-resistant cover, that I can easily fold up and use as a floor sofa, or out of the way for hauling my gear. I will use the tri-folder along with one of my two, never used, Coleman sleeping bags (one is 10-30 degree rated, the other is a larger size rated for 40 degrees and up)...I can use one, or both together, in lieu of the constant hassle of using multiple comforters/blankets/sheets, etc, and always "making up the bed". Now, I can simply fold-up, and roll-up, when finished sleeping.
  • Perhaps a thick 10" mattress is better than a hard 4" tri-fold, but only if you have room for it (4x8 TTT vs. cargo conversion...a quantum leap in size). Enjoy the comfort it will offer, whilst I rejoice in my down-sized, simplified, basic bedding!
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", semi-offroad, 4x8 TTT, 2065 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube axle, w/brakes *27x8.5-14LT all-terrain tires (x 3)
  • *LED lighting, triple fans, Pioneer stereo *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill
  • *zinc/stainless steel front racks *more features to come!
156212148599156215
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Re: E-track question

Postby Vspec » Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:48 am

Iconfabul8 wrote:Either of you have links to these awesome sounding mattresses?


https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00W67 ... UTF8&psc=1
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Re: E-track question

Postby Bowtie76 » Wed Apr 18, 2018 12:51 pm

I just ordered one of these. Will be here tomorrow so I'll post up how I like it.

The fact that it could double as a sofa was a selling point for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MPWCS7O?th=1
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