Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

While I will be keeping them inside the trailer, I could build a vented compartment with outside access.... But I have not found any flooded type batteries that are that much less once shipping is added. 200ah for $350. Ship included. Unless somebody here can point me elsewhere. Hint, hint

Sam's Club or Batteries Plus, Duracell GC2s. Next choice Costco. Golf car suppliers.

John61CT wrote:Sam's Club or Batteries Plus, Duracell GC2s. Next choice Costco. Golf car suppliers.

Sam's Club Duracell, 6V Golf Cart batteries is what I got and after two years working out fine. But they add a lot of weight.

No way around that using lead, lighter weight (AH per lb) means poor quality.

Either scale back AH needed, or spend 3-10 times more for a LiFePO4 bank.

defjr333 wrote:After reading all the replies and skimming over a few other battery threads, I THINK(lol) I have found the batteries I am going to use. Would like to run by those of you with a little more "real life" experience with 1st. Thinking of 4, maybe 5 of these:

https://www.mightymaxbattery.com/p34882 ... boats.html

Seems to be best ah per dollar and AGM which i like due to less maintenance. Feel free to reply with any info would be helpful. Looking to hear if anyone has used or heard of this brand, any better choices for similar money(cant afford lithium), or ANY info to help me finalize the decision on batteries to purchase as I want to get them within next few weeks. Thank you all for your knowledge and time.

Wow 115lbs each...
Tom

yeah, 500lbs of battery is crazy. Luckily i wont need to actually tow the ct very often. Will look into those duracell golf cart batteries. Thanks for the heads up Bob!! I like the specs on those Duracell GC2s. SamsClub has them for $85!! Should enable me to save a little coin for the other items still needed. Thank you soo much.

I just replaced my 14 year old Mopar truck type battery with a Rural King (Exide) heavy duty, 12v farm battery. It weighs 55 lbs. and rides in the tongue box. It can run our inverter which in turn runs our dorm fridge or AC or ice maker or microwave. It cost $79. All lights in Conch Fritter are LED, as are interior fans. Just finished doing a 24+ hour solar test run on the fridge, using the battery/inverter/50watts of solar. Fridge temp set to 29F avg. Outside temp hit mid-80s in day and lower 60s at night. No problems. Base voltage still over 12.2 when I stopped the test, 15 hours with no sun.

dave

daveesl77 wrote:I just replaced my 14 year old Mopar truck type battery

Are you saying that ran

> our inverter which in turn runs our dorm fridge or AC or ice maker or microwave

for 14 years???? I'm not buying, unless only very short times stationary boondocking, rest on shore power, even then. . .

Next time buy true deep cycle batteries, nothing related to cranking fossil fuel engines.

I used Walmart Martine/deep cycle batteries for the last 5 years ( 2 year warranty) and I replaced with similar from o Reilly's. 85 amp hours $85. Tom

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Using heavy inverter loads like that??

If so, congrats, that means you were taking care of them well enough, that you'd get 2-3x the life out of quality true deep cycle, even the cheapest GC2s, maybe 12+ years, and more AH available too.

Most people end up murdering starter batts like that every year or two, just not designed for heavy inverter usage, no matter the marketing verbiage.

John61CT wrote:Using heavy inverter loads like that??

If so, congrats, that means you were taking care of them well enough, that you'd get 2-3x the life out of quality true deep cycle, even the cheapest GC2s, maybe 12+ years, and more AH available too.

Most people end up murdering starter batts like that every year or two, just not designed for heavy inverter usage, no matter the marketing verbiage.

No , biggest load is a waeco fridge. It rarely got below 12.2 volts . Its all a balance, size, capacity, cost, weight. For a rig like mine, with my use this makes sense for me.
Tom

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Yes Dave's usage is maybe 5x yours.

But I still say you'd save money long-term even with just a fridge.

Unless of course you're on the edge weight-wise.

In any case, we all make up our own mind, just putting the info out there.

Right now I am HEAVILY leaning to the Duracell GC2s. Cant argue with 215ah for $170 plus tax. That takes my battery bank from costing @1400 for 800ah to $680 for 860ah! That damn near pays for half the parts I still need to purchase! Thanks again everyone for the direction

No worries, spend the savings on quality chargers solar etc care for them properly and they'll last you a loong time.

Remember, avoid <50% and if possible, get them back up to FULL 100% as quickly and as often as you can, ideally the vast majority of cycles.

Hydrometer at least, if not automatic SoC meter.

I will run the inverter, running the 120v dorm fridge, feeding from the battery during every drive between house and campground(s). Normally 6-10 hours. When driving the van supplies the charge to the battery. If we are at a place with hookups, then no inverter use. During my solar tests over the past few weeks, I've been running the fridge at about 29F, only on the battery/inverter with solar charger, for in excess of 28 hours straight. Getting ready to do a 48 hour test now that I have my home built panel in full operation to go along with my factory panel. Together they put out 80 watts under load.

The old Mopar was very strange, I will absoutely admit. It was my neighbor son's from his 2003 Dodge truck. He replaced it in about 2006-7. It sat on my neighbors back porch for a couple of years. He gave it to me. It then sat in my garage for a couple of years, I'd charge and maintain it every few months. In 2012 it went into my 25' Coachmen as a backup for about a year. Sold the trailer, kept the battery, then went into my truck camper for a year. Sold the camper, battery went back into garage. Built Conch Fritter, battery went into it, worked great for over a year, but then last fall it didn't have enough left to run the inverter/fridge while driving. So yes, it was used for 14 years. My cost was $0. Don't care if anyone buys it or not.


dave