Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I wanna insulate. The thickness will be whatever gap I have after I figure out how to mount screwing studs to the ceiling. I hope to keep to nominal thicknesses with gaps filled with construction foam. I wanna be able to run tongue and groove the length of the roof.

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Insulation thickness is a personal preference for how much R value you would want, and how much space you want to save.
The wall uprights and ceiling cross-members gave us 1 1/4" to work with. We settled for 1/2 insulation strips against the outer skin, and another 3/4' to cover. we then walled with 0.196" Luan screwed directly to the uprights and cross-members.
Some, and for good reason would add wood strips over and cross the uprights and cross-members to minimize thermal conductivity.

About halfway down here: viewtopic.php?f=42&t=67319 you'll see how we did ours.

I enjoyed your thread. The side walls will be 3/4 due to space restriction. The top will just depend based on how I figure out to mount the wood up there. The roof supports are c-channel with the opening facing down so I have no flat surface to screw into....I will need to brainstorm some...

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OCBINVA wrote:The roof supports are c-channel with the opening facing down so I have no flat surface to screw into....

How about filling the c-channel with wood strips, screw trough the side of C-channel to keep strips in place, then attach your ceiling to the wood strips?

Hader wrote:

OCBINVA wrote:The roof supports are c-channel with the opening facing down so I have no flat surface to screw into....

How about filling the c-channel with wood strips, screw trough the side of C-channel to keep strips in place, then attach your ceiling to the wood strips?

That's exactly what I have been thinking would work. The biggest issue will be drilling through 50yr old steel. Tough as nails. I might need to make a pattern and cut the wood with a profile so I can keep the arch ceiling.

My other thought was to run a board from side to side. It would make for a flat ceiling the the installation would be crazy easy....

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OCBINVA wrote:

Hader wrote:

OCBINVA wrote: I might need to make a pattern and cut the wood with a profile so I can keep the arch ceiling.

This is how we created a cross-member (there wasn't one) with a curve to maintain the arch in the back of the trailer. gallery/image.php?album_id=4374&image_id=145412 3 (one over another) 1/2 strips of plywood

Look at the 2nd photo from the bottom here: gallery/image_page.php?album_id=4374&image_id=145412 That's how we insulated the front curves in the front.

Awesome!...that gave me some ideas

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Kerfs for curves....

McDave

Well I was afraid of that...after demo there is significant rust through frame. It's not salvageable. The roof corners and fenders are good however. So the dilemma is to walk away, buy a 4 x 7 HF trailer and built it with these parts, or pay to have new frame built. The axle I have is good however. All in all I only have $100 into it...

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Sorry to hear that. Better luck next time!