Crawler Hauler

[msnglinc]

Hey Sleeps,
The LED strip lights can be cut to length and connected or terminated. Every 3rd light should have a connector "pad".
You can solder or get a bag or two of these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-2PIN-Conn ... hash=item0

I have the heat strip in my Coleman Mach III AC, and it works pretty good. If you are trying to bring trailer temp up from 30f to 72f, it takes 15min or so. Then it cycles heat on and off and works OK but fan runs constantly, noisy but warm. I also have a LP catalytic heater.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympian-RV-Cam ... Swn7JYEttP
It really works! Best when real cold outside. Run on low all night, almost too much heat, but nice when you need it. I don't have an alarm yet, but need one that picks up CO and LP. May have to use separate alarms.

That trailer of yours has a ton of potential and with the skills you have building buggys, it could be amazing. IMHO bathrooms are priceless, kitchens less so. A refrig. is great, and micro's are handy and maybe a lp burner for coffee etc. but we tend to eat at bars and such or BBQ outside.

Good Luck on this project. I'll be watching.

McDave

Something like this should work, or is there a better option?

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-L ... B003L4KKF2

I'm using these switches on my lights. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291654319555?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

[McDave]

Well, those are nice switches. This is what I am using and they are Great! Very inexpensive so I got many.http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-RF-Wireless ... 1a07604e6d
Velcro'd to wall by door and ramp and a couple spares. The remotes are all same RF and you can set dim level and it remembers. I have a master switch over the door so I set the light level I like, and use master sw when coming or going. remote by bed for on/off and dim. Also strobe and light FX in case I get some "company".....just sayin'...

[sleepsontoilet]

That trailer of yours has a ton of potential and with the skills you have building buggys, it could be amazing. IMHO bathrooms are priceless, kitchens less so. A refrig. is great, and micro's are handy and maybe a lp burner for coffee etc. but we tend to eat at bars and such or BBQ outside.

Good Luck on this project. I'll be watching.

McDave

Here's a pic of a prior setup I ran a few years ago. It had plenty of tool storage but was way too narrow to fit much living quarters inside beyond a bed and table. My wife says I should join a self help group as this is my 5th trailer in 2.5 years, hahaha.

[sleepsontoilet]

Well, those are nice switches. This is what I am using and they are Great! Very inexpensive so I got many.http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-RF-Wireless ... 1a07604e6d
Velcro'd to wall by door and ramp and a couple spares. The remotes are all same RF and you can set dim level and it remembers. I have a master switch over the door so I set the light level I like, and use master sw when coming or going. remote by bed for on/off and dim. Also strobe and light FX in case I get some "company".....just sayin'...

I'm digging those, and way cheaper too. Guess I'll be bookmarking those as well...

[msnglinc]

Well, those are nice switches. This is what I am using and they are Great! Very inexpensive so I got many.http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-RF-Wireless ... 1a07604e6d
Velcro'd to wall by door and ramp and a couple spares. The remotes are all same RF and you can set dim level and it remembers. I have a master switch over the door so I set the light level I like, and use master sw when coming or going. remote by bed for on/off and dim. Also strobe and light FX in case I get some "company".....just sayin'...

So if they are all the same RF does it not dim all the lights at one time? How do you set up separate zones?

[McDave]

@ msnglinc,
It may be possible to have separate zones, but in a 6x12 I'm not sure there is a need. If you do need separate zones, you could have separate master switches. Turn one zone master on, adjust dimmer, turn off. Repeat on second zone. Flip both masters on and the zones should be at desired level.

McDave .... ...

[sleepsontoilet]

I need some advice on insulation. My walls are 1.25" thick and the previous owner put 1/2" insulation in already. Am I better off grabbing some 3/4" insulation and completely filling the gap, or would an air gap help keep it cooler? Our summers are worse than our winters, so I'm mostly worried about keeping it cool. Almost finished with all demo, and ready to start insulating and sealing it up.



This is on the roof, but no controller just two wires sticking through the roof. How can I tell if it's any good? Is it only good for a trickle battery charger, or should I just trash it altogether?



Here's a basic roof shot.



I already installed the ac, and still need to install a pair of vents. I'd like one in the front over the master bedroom, and another in the bathroom. Most I've seen speak about vent fans, but has anyone installed an escape vent? I still need to scrape all the old junk off the seams and reseal everything as I found a few damp roof beams when it sat level.

[Philip]

I would drop another 3/4" into the stud bays. 1/2" is only maybe 2 on R factor. 1.25" of insulation will get you around 5 or a little over. More insulation the better if your in hot climate.

Throw a multi meter on those two leads and see what its putting out for voltage. If its showing anything it will charge. By the size of the panel it might be good for a cell phone.

[sleepsontoilet]

Insulation round 2. It should be around 8.2R when I'm done. Hopefully that'll take the edge of our summers.

[sleepsontoilet]

Anyone have an opinion on this?

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/atwo ... -black.htm

The wife never used the oven in our old truck camper, and doesn't care for one in the new. Since I bought pre-made cabinets, dropping a gas stove in the counter is much easier than reworking the cabinets. I'm just not sure if there's something better out there. Looking for a 3 to 4 burner unit.

[hankaye]

sleeps, Howdy;

Mostly for RV stuff PPL has the stuff you'll be looking for. The majority of "newer" stove
tops are going to be 3 burner, with the larger being the High Out-put burner. For me,
I live in a 5th wheel, the h-o is the only one that I use. The 4 burner ones can still be
found ... just harder to locate and none will normally be a high out-put.
Always good to get the wife's opinion about kitchen stuff

hank

[sleepsontoilet]

sleeps, Howdy;

Mostly for RV stuff PPL has the stuff you'll be looking for. The majority of "newer" stove
tops are going to be 3 burner, with the larger being the High Out-put burner. For me,
I live in a 5th wheel, the h-o is the only one that I use. The 4 burner ones can still be
found ... just harder to locate and none will normally be a high out-put.
Always good to get the wife's opinion about kitchen stuff

hank

Drove 30 minutes to them and picked up the stainless 3 burner for $152. Pretty good deal, but most everything else in store was almost double amazon/eBay prices.

[sleepsontoilet]

Walking Dolphin at Katemcy Rocks

https://youtu.be/vHbstS0wKKA

[McDave]

It's just all about technique, balance, articulation and patience. I'm not sure I would be very good at that. I tend to lean more towards the airborne approach, then it's really all about the landing.
Amazing to watch, Thanks for posting.

McDave

[sleepsontoilet]

It's just all about technique, balance, articulation and patience. I'm not sure I would be very good at that. I tend to lean more towards the airborne approach, then it's really all about the landing.
Amazing to watch, Thanks for posting.

McDave

My last attempt wasn't as graceful, the bolt connecting the brake pedal linkage came out and I had no brakes. Also a guy had just rolled his FJ on it as we pulled up and he had to be taken to the hospital for a split wig. My nerves were shot, but I made it with some throttle control. Thanks for all the advice along the way.

https://youtu.be/aky7woJp8Ko