Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hey Hader,
You may have already done this, but one of the first things I did was to make an accurate sketch of the trailer framing. It can be very helpful when looking for tanks etc. and planning for placement.
Knowing where crossmembers are located exactly...priceless

McDave

McDave wrote:Hey Hader,
You may have already done this, but one of the first things I did was to make an accurate sketch of the trailer framing. It can be very helpful when looking for tanks etc. and planning for placement.
Knowing where crossmembers are located exactly...priceless

McDave

Thanks McDave for the idea. I will do that this Friday.

Yesterday got the 2 corner shower walls done. We only lost 1 1/2" on each side to be able to square the 'Squircle'.
We used the 3/8" panel that came with the trailer, but a 2x4 can be notched and used for the corners.

Please help!

I'm having a mental block.

Working on my 2nd window, but unable to square it in place.

'Prem' once said:
"Don't use a carpenter's level (with the floating bubble). Measure and mark the cut out down from the bottom of the rain lip/trim edge on the exterior of the trailer.

Why? A trailer is not an immovable carpentry project sitting on a concrete foundation. It's on springs and tires. Level relative to the ground is hard to get on both sides of the trailer because the level changes with your body's weight inside, the trailer tires' pressure daily or with sinking into dirt/lawn. Measuring from the rain lip/trim edge keeps a very parallel line between your new window and the top line of the trailer on the outside.”

What he is saying make sense.

But, let’s say I level the “rain lip/trim” or the floor and use it as a base to measure from, shouldn’t let’s say 8” down from the “rain lip/trim” or from the floor in 2 places be level?

Got it figured out.

These trailers are not built plumb or square. In my case, the "rain lip/trim" was way off and kept missing up my measurements, but the floor however was good.
I leveled the trailer the best I could (just to make me feel better), went inside and measured from floor up and the back wall forward to establish my base lines, drilled 2 holes 2" up and inside the lines where the window will be; went out side and marked the 2" points below and before the 2 holes. All I had to do was to square the marks and got my 1st corner.

Yea, Straight, Plumb, Square, Uniform, those are all concepts. Ya might get lucky, but not mine. Now level, that's an important one. Really the only one you will have any influence over. I know this is old news but, when you are in the building phase, Check the air pressure and get even. Then block the wheels. Then level the frame at all four corners plus the tongue jack. Take a little weight off the springs so you will have seven points of contact (or nine if 2 axle) that all have similar weight on them. Then make some marks to reference jack heights and locations and tire location. If you can leave it there, then Great! But your gonna move it, so get it back in its spot and level up. Otherwise doors and windows and ramps and, well everything will change on ya and you'll spend a lot of time wondering why stuff doesn't line up, and how you cut it wrong etc.
Get a half dozen or so of those stick/screw on levels and place em so you can see them while your screwing the jacks up or down. You'll get good at it PDQ and it will go fast. But if you are level during build, stuff should work anywhere if you are level.

McDave

Also, you want her to be close to straight and level when in flight, with about 15% of loaded weight on tongue
Try to get the Harley centered over the axle so its neutral, then move the tanks and gennny etc to achieve proper balance.

[quote="McDave"]Check the air pressure and get even. Then block the wheels. Then level the frame at all four corners plus the tongue jack. Take a little weight off the springs so you will have seven points of contact (or nine if 2 axle) that all have similar weight on them. Then make some marks to reference jack heights and locations and tire location. If you can leave it there, then Great! But your gonna move it, so get it back in its spot and level up. Otherwise doors and windows and ramps and, well everything will change on ya and you'll spend a lot of time wondering why stuff doesn't line up, and how you cut it wrong etc./quote]

Thank you McDave.
I'm glad you told me this. I have yet to build my 2 walls, I'll need to follow your advice before I start.

Personally I think you are beating your head against the wall. I wouldn't even take a level near the trailer. Measure off the floor, square things as best you can, measure from multiple locations, split some differences decide what looks best, bolt,nail,screw or weld it and move on. Works for me and I am a perfectionist.

I'm with McDave on this one.

No matter how unplumbed or out of square the trailer is, leveling gives me a reference point. Leveling does not plumb or square the trailer, but it does make trailer even or stable to establish points of reference for measurement.

Yea, I'm not buyin' it Icon. I've seen your work, and Ive seen your shop... But I did have to give up the head vs. wall deal.
The walls just couldn't take it any more...

McDave

@ Hader,
These were on sale for like 3.99. I got 4pks. One center of frame under ramp, One for each corner above the screw jack, one for front wall, one middle of tongue frame, and I stepped on one. Get the frame levelled first using a 4', then use your level to help apply rv level. As long as the frame is level and the hand and rv levels agree, peel the tape and stick it. Then you can screw it down. W hen you do get it level and stabilized, go inside and start checking wall studs for plumb, you will be pleasantly surprised. It will feel solid as well. Also, once you have figured out where level is in its parking area, build a block for under the tongue jack, you want it as tall as possible and still be able to get it under there when hitched up. That way you only need to crank it 40 revs to get off the hitch, and in my case you will lower to level. Now your not having the jack all extended and unstable.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-90-Deg ... ethod=p13n

McDave

Thanks for the link McDave.
I'll add it to my list from Walmart or Amazon.
Speaking of the 4' level! I forgot that I was suppose to mark one side and have that side 'always' facing me when leveling.

Howdy All;

For "level" I use the circular Bubble level that I pried outta the tube for the Sat. dish.
For when I do decide to up and relocate that's what I use for the "real" RV. Always liked
them even do a better job for tires then the fancy spinnin' machines do... (jmo).

hank