7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

Something like this might be your friend:

WELDING CABLE 2/0 20' 10'BLACK 10'RED CAR BATTERY LEADS USA NEW Gauge Copper AWG

You would still need terminals to finish them. You're right, not cheap, but probably worth it in the long run.

Thanks.. I saw that on Amazon and thought about it.... but it really will not be much work to get the inverter close to the batteries (as it probably should be). A short 12" run of cable will be cheaper and better in any case. I'll use the vacated space for my VHF Radio mount. :-)

[warnmar10]

Does the inverter connect to the battery or to the load terminals of the charge controller?

[flboy]

Does the inverter connect to the battery or to the load terminals of the charge controller?

Directly to the battery through a 200A ANL fuse link. Connecting the inverter to the Solar Charge Controller Load terminals is a huge no no. That output is for a very small load.

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[flboy]

This whole wire thing has been bugging me. I originally selected the gage wire (cost vs size vs length of run) that should have worked. I am using OFC stranded 4 gage which should be enough (with little margin). I expected about a .5V drop for the 6' run @ ~max load.. When I got home tonight, I loaded it back down and the majority of the 2.5 V (about 2V) was across the 200A ANL fuse... and it was getting real hot.. I had a metal washer between the fuse terminal face and the wire terminals... and it did not like that (making the connection through the washer). Should have been copper to copper.. aside from that.. the fuse does still drop about .5 volts now and is much better..The 200A is too big for the 4 ga wire ( I know that.. but I had it ) so I don't know why it would drop .5V . I think the ampacity of 4ga is ~120A before it starts to heat up and my inverter max draw should be about 115A. The wires will rarely see that in any case.

Anyone ever heard of ANL fuses dropping voltage? I'll need to do a little more research on that. But why would this 200 Fuse drop .5V drawing about 100A through it? I guess that would be ~500 milliohms ... maybe that is normal.

I wonder if it would be worth it to get two 100A ANL fuses and run them in parrallel... Ohms laws says I'll cut the drop in half and I'd still have 200A protection..

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Good luck with your problem ... all of your online musings were interpreted by my brain
as ; mektisuwe blodyowng murfftip fratizating but, ... on the other hand ... natofmad brolwg

so, ... I'll just keep my distance in case your infectious

hank

[flboy]

flboy, Howdy;

Good luck with your problem ... all of your online musings were interpreted by my brain
as ; mektisuwe blodyowng murfftip fratizating but, ... on the other hand ... natofmad brolwg

so, ... I'll just keep my distance in case your infectious

hank

Thanks Hank. It's not contagious..

[flboy]

Well, aside from connecting up a few outlets, tucking away wires, bundling them neatly with tie wraps, and mounting the indicator panel shown in the pics below, my electrical system is up and working.

I am running off solar now. I tested the inverter under full load. It runs the Fridge and Microwave with room to spare. The pics below show the Kill-A-Watt meter on the front of the inverter that monitors to AC output, and the bottom one is a panel I got of Amazon for $15.00. I had to connect a current shunt in the return line from the inverter, but basically it monitors current, voltage and power usage for the inverter. It will be handy when boondocking as you have to manage total power usage so as not to overload the inverter or run the batteries down below 10.5V. When the meter indicates 100A.. it's time to shut something down. I can also see any difference between the voltage at the batteries and the voltage at the inverter. You can see in the pics they differ by about .1 volts.




I am going to mount this right above the Solar Charger/Controller so at a glance, I will be able to monitor the input to and output from the batteries .

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

About the "Kill-a-watt" thingy, what does the back of it look like? Does it have a male plug stickin'
out the back? Went to their website and only front views ... Thanks for puttin' up with my questions.

hank

[flboy]

Yes. It is a male plug.

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[warnmar10]

[flboy]

That's it. It is a nice device for monitoring the inverter output. You can grab one on Amazon inexpensively. :-)

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[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Looks like I could install it between anything and it's plug to see what I'm using
for just about anything in the ol' RV. Would let me see what's what and where I
might cut back on some energy usage ... hmmmmmmmm
Thanks for bringing to my/our attention.

hank

[flboy]

You are welcome.

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[flboy]

Some more progress today despite a slow start. I got the backsplash in, the under cabinet lighting, cut the overhead cabinet access, and did some more wiring of switches. Still a lot of trim work. I'll probably cut the remainder of the access holes and cut the kitchen sink in tomorrow.. all I'll probably have time for.


I think the lighting turned out nice. I like it.





View into the kitchen from where the dinette booth is going to go next week. I need to make some more holes for the two amp meters I have to monitor the solar. Both are like the one I showed previously wit the Blue Back lighting. I need to make a panel mount for them and they will go directly over top the Solar Charger. I'll be able to monitor the current and etc. going into the battery and back out. I'll be able to set alarms for under voltage and etc..



I had to add more switches (lots of stuff to turn on and off!) and decided to mount the Water Heater switch there also since it was convenient.

[

[m.colley]

Looking really good there Don, you'll have it all wrapped up before you know it..


Martin