Conversion of my Blair Cargo trailer

[Kankujoe]

I've been hanging around here off & on for a few months now trying to decide on a traditional teardrop or cargo trailer conversion for my freqent bicycle and kayak treks. I think I've decided that I will start with a trailer conversion as I already own a cargo trailer that I have many years & many miles experience pulling all over the country.

My trailer is a 1992 Blair Cargo Trailer. I used it pretty hard from 1992 to 2000. Sporadically since. It has some wear and tear but has been reliable and a good trailer. I've probably put 30K or more miles on it since 1992. It's been coast-to-coast 5-6 times and just about everywhere in between hauling Boy Scout gear/equipment and moving my kids around. I have also spent many a night sleeping in it when a severe rain storm wash out my tent!

It is 5'Wx10'Lx5'8"H. Basically it is now a box with a 45"Wx60"H rear door. Walls are 5/8 or 3/4 inch fiberglass laminate over plywood. Chassis is a heavy duty horse trailer frame with a single axle. Weight is approx 900 pound with 2500 pound payload capacity. Wheels are 225/75R15. Roof is single piece translucent molded fiberglass with 1x1 steel tube support framing.

I've been looking at everyone's conversion pictures on this site. Thanks for posting them. I will eventually get around to taking some photos and posting. Right now I have to do a major clean up and small repairs of some water damage before beginning my conversion. I will be replacing all or part of the floor, recaulking all seams and repairing the bottom 6 inches of my door (water damage). Not sure the best way to go about this since the damage to the door is in between the fiberglass laminate where the plywood core has the water damage. The fiberglass is still in good shape but the plywood is crumbling. Possibly I could install some kind of "kick plate" which will strengthen the door bottom and prevent further weakening. I also have to install a slide bolt lock inside so that I can lock it from the inside and I also need to figure out some way to prevent it from being locked from the outside while I'm in it!!

Right now, I'm trying to decide how many windows to install, what type of windows, positions, etc? Should I insulate it? Should I put a roof vent or two in it? Would a roof vent weaken the fiberglass or should I just vent it with side windows or a front or rear window? Possibly I could install an exhaust fan/vent through the 6 inch wide door frame over the door?

Once these issues are sorted out I would like to decide on a floor plan. I would however, like any fixtures inside to be easily removed as I would like the option of using it as a cargo trailer occasionally.

Anyone here have any sources for windows? Pros/cons of different types? Sizes? Costs?

I plan to eventually build a sofa frame that converts to a bed with storage underneath. Also, some cabinets, closet, counter/table top, minimal electrical wiring & lighting, etc. and storage cabinet for a porta potty.

I don't have a big need of a galley. Maybe a small counter top, small sink/basin, and possibly a set up for a small microwave. I don't plan on doing dedicated camping in it. Just sleeping and changing quarters for my biking/hiking/kayaking treks and travel to and from. I have a really nice Coleman/Fleetwood pop up camper for dedicated camping trips with the family.

Anyone know of floor plans for such a small footprint? I've been searching the web but have not found much.

I will post progress as it happens. And, I'm open to any suggestions or leads on ideas.

Thanks,

[Trackstriper]

Joseph -

I've been pondering a cargo conversion also as a solution to my out-of-town trailer needs. Is your need for a one person trailer, or will you need a bed big enough for two?

JB

[Kankujoe]

Joseph -

I've been pondering a cargo conversion also as a solution to my out-of-town trailer needs. Is your need for a one person trailer, or will you need a bed big enough for two?

JB

I plan on building a bed large enough for two. Most of the time it will be only me but occasionally I can see my wife coming along. I can also see 1 or 2 of my young grandkids tagging along. I know that will be cramped but I still think it is workable.

I suspect that it my wife AND grandkids come along we'll use our pop up camper which is plenty big enough for everyone and then some.

[Kankujoe]

Progess so far:

4/27 bought 3 RV windows off eBay (21"x16") now in transit.
4/28 spent 4 hours! power washing the moss & lichens off my trailer, removed roof rack (don't expect to need it any longer).
4/29 designed bed/sofa/table combo (54"x72" open) (54"x35" plus two 27"x25" modular tables when closed). Decided to have Knox Foam make me 3 (25"x54"x4") cushions. Will order once my bed/sofa/table combo design is certain & workable.
4/30 bought/installed new tongue jack, bought new wiring harness, new LED lights, and spare tire mount. Also bought gutter sealer (to reseal all seems).
5/1 cut out water damaged portion of floor (14"x96").
5/1 renewed trailer tags at DMV for 3 years.
5/1 bought sheet of polished aluminum diamond plate for front of trailer stone guard and kick plate for door. Bought inside door slide lock.
5/1 bought marine grade indoor/outdoor carpet for floor.
5/1 bought "Power on Board" rechargeable Power Center (AC/DC power supply w/AM/FM/NOAA Weather Radio) basically a 12V, 400W, power backup, inverter that can be recharged via DC or AC and can run/charge my electronic devices via AC/DC/USB ports & will power my cabin lights and exhaust fan.

That's it for now.

[jtaltman]

Hi Joseph,
I too am converting a cargo trailer. Just for fun, I'll play with some floor plans for the 5x10 with a single back door. I'll post them for you.

Jan

[jtaltman]

Joseph,
Here are the layouts I said I'd play with.
Jan

[Kankujoe]

Jan,

Thanks for the floor plan ideas. I appreciate you suggestions.

Now, if it would only stop raining so that I could get some more work done. It started raining yesterday after I finished cutting out the floor. It has been raining since and more rain is called for tomorrow.

Wish I would have recaulked the seams first before working on the floor. Then I could even get a little done in the rain.

[Kankujoe]

Progress Update:

Received my 3 windows today via USPS, they look good! Bought some gasket caulking strip at the RV store at lunch time, also picked up a electrical plug cover/port.

Thinking about putting a thin carpet on the inside walls if I can find a light/neutral color that is inexpensive.

That's all for now.

[Kankujoe]

Couldn't do anything today.... it rained all day and poured this evening. Hopefully tomorrow will be sunny. I've committed to getting the floor repaired and the lighting re-wired before next weekend.

Going to Hermann, Missouri next weekend for the Mayfest. I plan on taking my TinyTrailer instead of my pop-up.

[jtaltman]

Joseph,

I'm curious about the windows.

It rattles me - the idea of cutting into the siding of the trailer. What's your plan of attack?

We will need to cross this bridge as it gets pretty dark inside when the doors are closed with only a bit of light filtering in through the overhead vent.

Thanks,
Jan

[Kankujoe]

Joseph,

I'm curious about the windows.

It rattles me - the idea of cutting into the siding of the trailer. What's your plan of attack?

We will need to cross this bridge as it gets pretty dark inside when the doors are closed with only a bit of light filtering in through the overhead vent.

Thanks,
Jan

I'll hopefully get to install the windows this weekend. Since my trailer has plywood walls overlaid by fiberglass inside & out they are pretty stout. I don't expect to have any problems cutting opennings for the windows. I plan on cutting the holes with a roto-zip type tool (mine is a Craftsman brand). I will install the windows after I cover my inside walls with carpet (hopefully tomorrow or Sunday afternoon) and after I trim away the excess carpet.

I will be trimming the windows inside with 1x4 pine cut to follow the curves of the window. This will make up for the thickness of the window which is 2" (my walls with the carpet should be close to 1" thick). I will install gasket tape/caulking that I bought from a local RV shop under the outside window flange and pre-drill holes for treated screws in the flange and wall. Then into the pine window trim on the inside wall to snug it up. Then I will use "gutter seal" caulking around the flange. (I'll also put a dab of gutter seal under each screw head prior to tightening them).

I have 3 "Dutchman" RV windows 21x6 oval casements... the bottom half or the window cranks out... the hardest part is deciding where to install them!!! It has to be right the first time or I'll have big troubles.

[Kankujoe]

Progress for Friday 5/4/07:

Finished installing subfloor. Anchored subfloor with liquid nails & self-tapping metal screws into the trailer frame.

Re-wired outside lights (turn signals, brake, tail lights). Will have to upgrade to LEDs later once I get mounting cans for them. Trailer/hitch store was wrong about them being compatible with my existing cans.

[Kankujoe]

Joseph -

I've been pondering a cargo conversion also as a solution to my out-of-town trailer needs. Is your need for a one person trailer, or will you need a bed big enough for two?

JB

JB.

I enjoyed looking through your photo album... your plans for a trailer are great... Have you started this project?

[Kankujoe]

Progress report:

Haven't been able to do much this weekend. Re-caulked the roof seams with gutter seal, repaired floor. Worked on lights. Can't seem to get the tail lights/running lights working... Got the brake lights & turn signals working fine but no tail lights.

It has been pouring rain today... not much else I can do. But I apparently found the source of my leaks... since I had no water inside with all the rain!!

Need to get my garage cleaned out (filled with my kids junk!!) then I'd have a place to work when the weather is bad...

I did finally get a few photos uploaded...

Also, towed trailer to "Flying J" truck stop to have it weighed. 1180 lbs.

[catrinka]

KJ, I was just looking at your album. Are you changing the closing mechanism on the back door? If its like mine is, you wouldn't be able to close it properly from inside and once inside you wouldn't get out. Just curious.