Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Great guide -

http://www.rvwindow.com/RV_Products_Lis ... goryID=248

Hello,

I found some windows that 'm thinking of buying, but before I do I have questions. It says they are 15 wide x 22 tall, so I'm assuming that is the rough opening size. In my mind, I'm thinking that I can just squeeze them in between two of the upright studs that are supposed to be 16" on center. The one thing I'm not sure about is whether or not the windows have a flange that is wider than the 15" on the outside. if they do, then the outside flange might cover the screws that fasten down the skin of the trailer. Does anyone foresee this being a problem getting the window to seal properly?



Thanks!

MTPockets, Howdy;

The RV industry uses this;
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.asp ... aQodtAYAyw
to seal around windows and other openings,
helpful hint when working with it, keep it in your freezer
until ready to use it. It keeps it from sagging, drooping, and in general
being a PITA .

hank

Thanks Hank!

I will definitely pickup a roll or two. What do you think about the flange and seal possibly landing on top of the bolts that hold the skin on? If it will be a problem, I will need to search for a little narrower sized windows.

Gene

MTPockets, Howdy;

Personally, I'd try to stay away from the seams. However, that putty tape is
forgiving if you have some bumps in the way. Be sure to allow some to ooze
out from the edges when you secure the window to the structure. That way
you'll know it's filling the gaps. You can use a plastic scraper to clean-up the
edges even with the edge of the trim ring.

hank

Thanks for the great information! The original, seller of the 12" wide window re-listed a few, so I will try to get a hold of a couple of those to stay away from the seams. My intent was to go with vertical windows rather than horizontal so that I won't need to cut a support and weld in a header and sill to frame the window, or will I?

If I don't touch the wall "studs" and install the window between them, do y'all think I still need to install a top and bottom "header" above and below the window?

Thanks,
Gene

What have folks done with windows that are missing the interior clamp/trim ring?

Did you use some sort of aluminum to fashion one?

I glued up some poplar strips into a rectangle, used a router to match the shape of the wndow. Then some 5mm Luan to make a flat cutout with the same ID AS the window, and large outside diameter to retain the window. Glued it all up, the trick was to get the screws to go into the slot in the window frame for holding it all.together. I'll try to get a edge view pic for you

Thanks !
I'd love to see those pictures.
I can save quite a bit of money on surplus windows on ebay, plus I can pick them up directly to save even more; but many are without trim rings.

dmdc411 wrote:I glued up some poplar strips into a rectangle, used a router to match the shape of the wndow. Then some 5mm Luan to make a flat cutout with the same ID AS the window, and large outside diameter to retain the window. Glued it all up, the trick was to get the screws to go into the slot in the window frame for holding it all.together. I'll try to get a edge view pic for you

I got a couple pics, not the greatest, I think you can make out the filler to make up the wall thickness, and the layer of plywood that creates the flange to hold it all in the wall. The cedar just covers the ply with the screw heads. The screws go into a slot on the window frame, I had to pilot drill mine. A word of warning here, I made my inside diameter too small, in the pic with my thumb, I also have a screen that has to clip to the inside of that flange, it doesn't fit! I haven't figured this out yet. But I know it's not coming apart to do over again!

MTPockets wrote:Hello,

I found some windows that 'm thinking of buying, but before I do I have questions. It says they are 15 wide x 22 tall, so I'm assuming that is the rough opening size. In my mind, I'm thinking that I can just squeeze them in between two of the upright studs that are supposed to be 16" on center. The one thing I'm not sure about is whether or not the windows have a flange that is wider than the 15" on the outside. if they do, then the outside flange might cover the screws that fasten down the skin of the trailer. Does anyone foresee this being a problem getting the window to seal properly?



Thanks!

Keep in mind that 16" C-C is only 16-upright width. That is to say, if your uprights are 1" wide then it will be 15" between them. If your uprights are 2" then it will be 14" between them.

As for the rough opening, it depends on actual measurements some manufacturers quote includes flange and some quote opening. One door manufacturer of a 26 x 36 door quoted "cut out measures 25-7/8" x 35-7/8" with 4-1/2" radius corners" .
Buyer beware. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

MT Pockets, I would definitely install the header and sill. They act as a filler to keep the skins from compressing, or oil canning lets say. If they are allowed to move, it will cause the sealing for your window frame to wall skin to be broken.

Thanks for the info, I will definitely install a header and sill around the window. Looking at the windows brings up other questions.

1. The window has a rubber seal around the perimeter that seems like it will sit up against the outside skin. Do all windows have this rubber seal? if so, then I assume that I will need to apply the butyl seal tape to the narrow outside lip around the windows next the the rubber seal?

2. The screws for the inside trim ring... I don't see holes in the window where they go, am I supposed to drill the holes myself or am I missing the elephant in the room?


SAM_1710 by Gene, on Flickr

SAM_1709 by Gene, on Flickr

No, you don't drill holes. If you look carefully where your trim ring fits on the window frame you will see that your trim ring screw holes line up with a channel on the window piece. The screws will go into that channel so don't drill anything. Look at the diagram in the guide listed at the top of this page: http://www.rvwindow.com/RV_Products_Lis ... goryID=248

When I did mine I found it easier to hold things by using a couple of longer screws (not screwed in all the way) just to hold the two pieces together and pull it in a bit while getting the shorter screws in and pulling everything in together. Once I got everything pulled in and where it should be I replaced the two or three longer screws that I used to hold it in place with the actual size needed.

Hope that this all made sense.

1. The window has a rubber seal around the perimeter that seems like it will sit up against the outside skin. Do all windows have this rubber seal? if so, then I assume that I will need to apply the butyl seal tape to the narrow outside lip around the windows next the the rubber seal?


I would like to know the answer to this as well. Is the rubber seal enough, or do I use the butyl tape as well? Just got my windows (and access doors in and will be installing hopefully in the next few days).