A/C
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 3:38 pmCan you add A/C to any cargo trailer or do you have to reinforce it?
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Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 3:38 pmPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:44 pmJust throw the extention cord in the door !
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:38 pmYou can set it on the floor.
But if you are going to elevate it, you'll need reinforcements!
Mike...
But if you are going to elevate it, you'll need reinforcements!
Mike...
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:29 pmBirdDog,
Are you asking about a roof top a/c or a wall mount?
Ed
Are you asking about a roof top a/c or a wall mount?
Ed
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:34 pmbobhenry wrote:Just throw the extention cord in the door !
OH !
Air Conditioning not Alternating Current.
Sometimes these abreviations get me in trouble!
Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:57 amIf you're going with a roof-top, you will need to reinforce the opening, which is the same size as the vent.
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:03 amI am wanting to have a roof mounted a/c. If I was going to buy a new trailer is better to just have the manf. install or would I save money doing it my self?
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:33 amIdea:
Since you have a walk-in, if you use a portable A/C unit, you can take it when you need it; leave it home when you don't. No holes in the roof; no extra places for leaks to occur. Their footprint is small. The one I'm considering (Nano) has a footprint of roughly 12x15".
Since you have a walk-in, if you use a portable A/C unit, you can take it when you need it; leave it home when you don't. No holes in the roof; no extra places for leaks to occur. Their footprint is small. The one I'm considering (Nano) has a footprint of roughly 12x15".
Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:57 amA portable A/C is not a bad idea, but remember you still need to vent it to the outside to remove the heat. So that will require a smaller hole or a bigger window (so you can mount the window vent).
Your typical 5K-8K BTU window-mount A/C box is about 30-50lbs so anywhere you want to put it will need to be strong enough to support the weight. You also need to consider a way to protect it when you are driving. Some people have it on a sliding tray so they can retract it when traveling.
It's not hard to install a reinforcement to a roof vent for one of the roof-mount units. If you aren't comfortable doing that kind of work, the trailer dealer can do it for you (for a price) or you can enlist some other professional help.
In any case, you'll need to run a 110V power connection to it; almost all A/C units draw too much current to run on batteries (unless you have a whole lot of them...) And you want the hole where the A/C mounts to be water-tight and air-tight to prevent leaks and keep the cold inside. Roof-mount A/Cs have an integral gasket that gets installed; wall-mounted units require that you seal around the unit. If you do a search on A/C on the forums, you'll see others working through the same issue (including myself) and some of the answers we've found.
Your typical 5K-8K BTU window-mount A/C box is about 30-50lbs so anywhere you want to put it will need to be strong enough to support the weight. You also need to consider a way to protect it when you are driving. Some people have it on a sliding tray so they can retract it when traveling.
It's not hard to install a reinforcement to a roof vent for one of the roof-mount units. If you aren't comfortable doing that kind of work, the trailer dealer can do it for you (for a price) or you can enlist some other professional help.
In any case, you'll need to run a 110V power connection to it; almost all A/C units draw too much current to run on batteries (unless you have a whole lot of them...) And you want the hole where the A/C mounts to be water-tight and air-tight to prevent leaks and keep the cold inside. Roof-mount A/Cs have an integral gasket that gets installed; wall-mounted units require that you seal around the unit. If you do a search on A/C on the forums, you'll see others working through the same issue (including myself) and some of the answers we've found.