Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

One thing I have learned is that if someone wants something bad enough, they will take it. The most you can do is come up with some way to slow them down and make it difficult
With that being said, have we really come to the day where we are really talking about putting car alarms on trailers.
Knowing how sensitive trailers are to wind and such, do you really want to be a few clicks away when you trailer alarm goes off, and you get back just to find out it was the wind, or a small animal jumping on your trailer.
Also, if a trailer alarm went off close to where I was camping, I would get pretty ticked

MB I agree that if determined, and they have opportunity, they will succeed.
Alarms however do not necessarily have to include a motion sensor, it could be as simple as a pressure switch inside the coupler that engaged when it is dropped over a trailer ball or IR or ultrasonic motion detectors inside the galley and trailer. How paranoid do you want to be. I will settle for slowing them down making them use multiple tools and having unique graphics.

I agree...slow em down and make them work for it
There was a person up here a few years back that caught somebody trying to steal his construction trailer and he tried to stop them but he got run over by the trailer...not worth it in my books

MountainBiker wrote:I agree...slow em down and make them work for it
There was a person up here a few years back that caught somebody trying to steal his construction trailer and he tried to stop them but he got run over by the trailer...not worth it in my books

Yea, that is what guns are for

michiganflipper wrote:

Sorry, this is only a false sense of security. Regardless how large your cable lock is, the thieves will get through it in seconds. I speak from experience. We had our three mountain bikes stolen while parked in the Wynn Casino in Vegas parking structure. Security informed me they had the entire episode on video. They said the perpetrator pulled up in a red truck, stepped out with bolt cutters in hand, cut all three 1/2" thick cables, loaded all three mountain bikes and was gone in less than 15 seconds. They also claimed their high dollar security camera was unable to make out the license plate. Yea, right, the brand new Wynn Casino is unable to read a license plate at 20feet.

Anyways, outside of a Full Wheel Clamp or a 1/2 inch Hardened Chain, an 18mm Kryptonite Lock may be your next best option. Place it through the wheel and frame and/or spring assembly. Use two if necessary to attach both.

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1000&scid=1000&pid=1094

After a $6000 loss, I will never again trust a cable lock.

A bit pricey.. but not compared to a stolen teardrop.. here is a solution:

http://www.bikebone.com/page/BBSC/PROD/Trailer-Security/TCL65

A half-baked idea popped into my Head while re-reading this Thread... This is the first time this has happened.

This is more applicable to CT and TTs. I've got to/want to retrofit a Breakaway Switch setup on my new/used ~2,600 lb. TT. Rather than set the separate, sealed Breakaway Battery out on the Tongue, I could upsize it and, say, tuck it under the Couch or behind an obscure Panel. A Mercury Switch could be installed and set to energize the TT Electric Brakes though a more-rugged Headlight Relay. Love those inexpensive Relays because they're 'everywhere' and handle lots of current.

Std. practice, before leaving the TT for a while, would be to flip a hidden Switch and energize this setup. I would also have to jack up front end Stabilizers [if any] and lower the Tongue significantly.

When the Bad Guys came along and tried to jack up or chain up the Tongue, the Mercury Switch - given the way I'd screw it down inside a hidden area - would close 'short' of level and energize Brakes through the Relay, immobilizing the TT in a way not obvious. Hopefully, the thieving Goombahs would be delayed/perplexed by the locked Wheels. Since I don't know 'how low' the Thief's TV Trailer Ball is, I would want this circuit to energize well below Chassis level. This is why I would have to lower the Tongue preemptively; below where the Mercury Switch closes. A person could even recycle and hide an old House Thermostat w/Mercury Switch in it.

Trailer Brakes draw up to 3 Amps/Drum, according to my Braking Controller Manual. I could reduce that current draw with a Resistor and still lock the Brakes well enough. If I came back to a dead, ~$50- Sealed Battery after ~1/2 day, so what? At least the TT would still be there in most scenarios. That is, where someone doesn't figure out this circuit and cut the TT Electric Brake Wires... I always lock my Tailer Couplers closed to slow down theft. Increasing the frustration level of Thieves is part of the 'make them finally give up' methodology. Paid-up Insurance covers the rest if they retaliate. Some 'failsafe' reminder would make me disable this circuit when we return, as would re-leveling the TT.

Being 'stealth' and hidden, this circuit would be in parallel with the actual Breakaway Switch. It wouldn't matter what that Switch status is, or if Thieves muck with it...

Another option on the brake concept is to upgrade to a parking brake system. I know Dexter has a parking brake option, not sure if it can be retrofit to other axles or not. Locate the PB actuating lever in an out of site location and the thieves may give up before they figure out the problem. You can also add a lock to the PB lever preventing tampering. With the brake cables located under the vehicle, it will significantly add to the difficulty in accessing them to cut.

A proper coupler lock that fits up inside the coupler is far more beneficial than just locking the coupler latch. A smaller tow ball will slip right up inside the trailer coupler regardless of the latch allowing the thieves to drive away with your trailer.

I have been thinking about this and looking at Youtube how to's. It would appear that anything that can be cut with a bolt cutter (Most tongue locks) or cut with a hammer and cold chisel is easy game. I have a Trailer Cop which sits up inside the coupler pocket AND covers the nut holding the coupler (one way to defeat coupler locks) and does not project below the pocket so you can not use a bolt cutter or chisel.
See http://www.campertrailers.org/securing_your_camper.htm about half way down the page.
The best design is one that appears to only work with a Bulldog hitch but shows promise http://www.trailerlocksonline.com/dabull.html not it uses a 11pin ASSA lock that is virtually pick proof.
EG an idea for your set up, how about using a magnet on one of the wheels and a reed switch to activate a relay along the idea of the bicycle speedometer sender.

VEEERRRRRY interesting bit on the Dexter Parking Brakes. I have their Axle, so I'll check that out.

A TT pal cut the Threads off a spare 2" Ball. He retains it up in the locked Trailer Coupler. The Canary-yellow Locks that protrude out and around both sides of the Coupler appear too easy to freeze-spray and/or cut. So, we've decided to skip that option. That said, any Padlock that fits into the stock hole on the Trailer Coupler is no great deterrent, either.

A Solar Panel-powered Electric Fence Charger to the insulated TT Chassis would be fun! But, you need a good Earth Ground connection, unfortunately.

Screw it, a multi-kiloWatt Laser aimed at the Trailer Coupler is my kinda 'fun'. I would need a serious fail safe Switch, however, to avoid a 'Wiley Coyote' scene right out of some 'Roadrunner' Cartoon. BBQ the Bastids:

Laser To Fry Somali Pirate Engines

P.S. to Shadow Catcher - Great Minds think alike, and so do you and I! That was the very first design concept I had this morning. I wondered if having those components outside would cause them to be more fragile, or more easily discovered, than my 2nd - and imperfect - idea re: a Vehicle Alarm-style Mercury Switch.

In thinking about using the reed switch with a Dexter axle it would be a simple matter to run it along the arm and have the magnet attached to the wheel. Aint no one going to think of looking for it!
The problem is that it has to be bullet proof and reliable.

I know how to build a coupler lock that would be about imposable to break using superplastic steel like a 1999. It would defeat even a cutoff blade, bolt cutter, saw of any kind. The problem is that it is very difficult to work with.

I like the fence charger idea, could be solar powered. I have been knocked silly a couple of times upon encountering them (could explain alot when you include the 20,000V neon sign transformer that I also encountered).

I have been trailer camping since the 60's and have never had a trailer tampered with.

I did take a pop-up trailer to dealer to have a rip in the fabric sewn I left the hitch leaver locked but the dealer just used a tractor to tow it into and out of the shop with the leaver locked.

after reading about the one here I may have to rethink about locking the trailer.

pete

IMO your best bet is a good coupler lock and a tire boot. To be honest all you can do is try to slow them down and cause them to make some noise. I work with steel some and today with battery powered tools like angle grinders and portabands there really isn't a lock you cant cut pretty easy..
Rigging some type of switch to the trailer brakes is ok, But as soon as they go to pull it and notice the wheels are locked first think they will probably do is lay down on the driver side and cut the brake wire on the hub.. Might take them 10 seconds to defeat it.. Not sure it would be worth the trouble installing the system. Cable locks, Tire boots and coupler locks are your best bet and all those do is slow them down. The idea is to have as many locks in plain sight so they might decide to look for easier targets..
Kinda of like that part in that movie where three guys have a bear come up on them. One of them starts taking his shoes off. When asked why he says I run faster barefoot. The other guys say you can't out run a bear.. He says I don't have to outrun the bear I just have to out run ya'll Same idea You don't have to make your trailer theft proof just make sure its harder to steal then your neighbors....

This is a little trick that I have done with my boat for years. I bought a 2" ball and cut the threads off. Place the ball in the coupler and lock it. We use one of those coupler locks that is very hard to saw through or even see to cut into it. The same can be done with the CT and it is inexpensive and very effective.

Lock is about $8
http://www.etrailer.com/c-CL.htm

$14 for the ball
http://www.csnstores.com/asp/show_detai ... 49-OEU1034

Less than $25 for a good anti-theft unit.

LShrew
I guarantee I could defeat this in seconds with a small bolt cutter. Any lock that has an exposed shackle is vulnerable. I lost the key to my draw-bar lock and it took me all of a couple of minutes with an angle grinder to cut it off. If I had a bolt cutter it would have been seconds.
Much tougher http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jfkn0mk0X2I
On top of that all I would have to do is use socket wrench and reach up inside and unbolt the nut that holds the coupler together and the ball falls out.