I prefer spar varnish to polyurethane. It's elastic, unlike polyurethane, so it handles changes in temperature and humidity much better than polyurethane.
In my last house I build an Island in my kitchen and for a countertop I used hardwood plywood and 4 coats of spar varnish. Lived there for 7 years and never had to re-coat it, and it stood up to being scrubbed at with no problems.