Tankless water heater cold water bypass.

[southpennrailroad]

My hot water on demand tank is hard to control the temp. of the water leaving the tank. So I decided to install a bypass shut off just b4 the the connection to the tank from the blue 7 gallon supply tank. This will allow me to utilize the same flow from the pump to the tank-less water heater as will allow cold water to exit the shower hose allowing me to get warm water instead of scalding water. I just bought the connectors and will install it tomorrow. Photos will be added later. Promise!

Sometimers just kicked in. Some times I remembers sometimes I don't In this case I just remembered that today I just purchased a 16 gal FW tank to install under the trailer. I want to get rid of these blue tanks. Maybe keep one. Thinking of using a orange HD 5 gallon bucked for Grey water. Or later get a 16 gallon grey water tank.

[d30gaijin]

South Penn,

I use a 5 gal. bucket in my CT for gray water, works fine and is easy to dump.

Don

[Engineer Guy]

After lotsa World stops where all hot water was supplied via 'flash' demand heaters, I put one in myself. The newer, and pricier, ones have all sorts of neato sensors w/microprocessor control to output water of consistent temperature. Some heaters, however, are 'block' heaters. They put 'x' BTUs into a flow of water, and have a low flow safety cutoff. The less the flow out, the hotter that water output. So, if a shower flow is kinda 'fixed' [by plumbing I.D. or shower head type], mixing in more cold water can lower hot water flow throughput, causing a block-style heater to heat it up even more.

If you can, rig up and test your new setup first before finishing all the 'button up' details. With block heaters, differing water temp input from city mains, or from a well pressure tank during different seasons, also varies hot water output. CT tank water temp will vary, too.

The 'newest' RV heaters heat water to very high temps, and then mix in cold water at the heater output. This feature is now marketed as providing 'more' hot water in a given heater capacity/volume [6, 10 or 12 gallons].

We splurged on some pricy shower controls in our new house. They maintain water temp output by internal, temp-sensitive springs even if someone flushes the toilet, etc.. Way kewl...

[southpennrailroad]

After lotsa World stops where all hot water was supplied via 'flash' demand heaters, I put one in myself. The newer, and pricier, ones have all sorts of neato sensors w/microprocessor control to output water of consistent temperature. Some heaters, however, are 'block' heaters. They put 'x' BTUs into a flow of water, and have a low flow safety cutoff. The less the flow out, the hotter that water output. So, if a shower flow is kinda 'fixed' [by plumbing I.D. or shower head type], mixing in more cold water can lower hot water flow throughput, causing a block-style heater to heat it up even more.

If you can, rig up and test your new setup first before finishing all the 'button up' details. With block heaters, differing water temp input from city mains, or from a well pressure tank during different seasons, also varies hot water output. CT tank water temp will vary, too.

The 'newest' RV heaters heat water to very high temps, and then mix in cold water at the heater output. This feature is now marketed as providing 'more' hot water in a given heater capacity/volume [6, 10 or 12 gallons].

We splurged on some pricy shower controls in our new house. They maintain water temp output by internal, temp-sensitive springs even if someone flushes the toilet, etc.. Way kewl...

I have an ECOTEMP water heater and I used it once with bad control. Always was scalded every time I turned on the shower head. Hardware only cost less then $10.00. So I will put it all together and see how it will work. I anticipate that most of the intake water will go through the tank but some may be diverted to the shower hose as needed to cool down the water after it has been heated up.