Engineer Guy wrote:A couple of tips re: the 'stopping' comment above...
Be sure to mechanically adjust and equalize the Brakes from side-to-side first. Then, Brake Controller Amps will be applied equally between the Brake Drums to have ~equal stopping power. We just did this on a pal's 14' Wilderness Hardside while on a dirt road, and it made a big difference. I also first adjust my Brake Controller on a dry dirt road to apply proportional stopping power per the Trailer load. The std. practice I observe is to adjust Braking power to just 'short' of Wheel lock-up while remembering that a panic stop will send even more Amps to the Brakes.
I pulled my partially-loaded 5' x 9' Utility Trailer up-and-down the ice on McClure Pass yesterday S.W. of Aspen. First time I'd ever driven down a grade in 4WD and 1st Gear to keep the Trailer from 'coming around' and knocking my rear wheels out-of-track. A Semi w/an empty Low Boy 'Dozer Trailer was off in the ditch. A FWD Minivan coming at us had to turn around and give it up. No uphill traction was in his future. A small SUV was up and over the Guardrail on Vail Pass, buried. All were OK.
As the Sun now pops out, it's time to scrub the de-Icer 'Magnesium Chloride' off of everything. It 'eats' ABS Brake connections and Trailer Brake connections. Nasty, gummy, black guano. I soldered and heat shrunk all my Trailer Brake/Harness connections, since a failed Brake or Ground can = a night in the ditch or the Mortuary where there's no Guardrail. Got to this House in one piece. Knock on Masonite.
A pal's new 4 Door LWB Rubicon looks like it'll tow anything; another Barroom discussion...
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