Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi. Does anyone pull a Cargo Conversion with a Jeep Wrangler? According to the owners manual it is possible. I would have electric brakes and possibly a weight distributing hitch. Also can you show me what yours looks like.

I pull a 6x10 without any problems at all. I'm struggling with the pics but will post some when I figure it out. My Wrangler is a 2005 with 6cyl. and auto trans.

The Jeep Wrangler states in the manual that it has a 2000 pound towing capacity. This is not so much because of the motor but rather the short wheelbase. (Although the 6 cylinder is obviously more power.) With that said, I tow my 6-wide Little Guy without any problems. Loaded down with bike on rear rack and front rack full etc., I'm sure I'm at about 1400-1500 pounds.

The Jeep Unlimited has a 3500 towing capacity because of the longer wheelbase. So whether you have a cargo conversion, pop up, or whatever, it's a weight thing. So how much do you estimate your conversion to weigh?

Scott

I figure all in all it should be close to 1800 lbs. Electric brakes will be on trailer. I know it will be slow up hills, that's OK as long as I can stop.
Owners Manual states 2000 lbs., so it should be alright. I just wanted to know how things worked out for someone else.
I have towed boats with a Jeep Cherokee, a utility trailer with a Wrangler and drove Trucks for a couple years. I have had no problems but some forums warn against towing over 1000 lbs with a Wrangler. That is 1/2 it's rated capacity. I understand the "tail wagging the dog" theory but if the manual says 2k, then 2k should be OK.
Just trying to figure out the best way to go about building what I want, a small camper that can haul a motorcycle. just a minimilist version.

Thanks for the info!!!

btw, nice setup. if I wasn't taking the bike, I would have the same thing.

This is my set up, 5x8 vnose from Pace with electric brakes.
Whit the trailer brakes it stops better than with out. Mine is 98 Tj with the 4.0 and 456 gears to compensate for the 35 inch tires.





I haul a ArticCat 4 wheeler and it dose great. I can't say i break any speed records but i take it all over Utah with lots of high mountains. [/img]

Thanks for replying, just what I needed to see. My YJ is white also, so I am getting some good ideas. I am going with a 5x10 v-nose with electric brakes. Nice looking work on yours. Kind of just what I want.

i pull a 5x8 cargo get 12- 15 mpg pulling got 3 1/2 lift with 33s it pulls it great

As important as a 4 vs 6 cylinder is what gear you have in relationship to tire size. I also have a 3 1/2 Tereflex lift and run 33 muds. Initially I put a 411 gear in, but years later when I got my teardrop I really suffered towing. So I put a 456 in and all was golden. Be sure to keep your rpm's high enough with the proper gear for towing.

Click Here----->Gear Ratio Guide

Scott

in addition to weight, you need to consider frontal area. for the 2 door jk wrangler the max frontal area is only 25 sqft. (I think it's 37 for a 4 door). some people are comfortable exceeding ratings, but it is keeping me from getting a standee. it pulls my little guy like a dream though so I'm still a happy camper.

How would you measure frontal area on a v-nose?

A couple of tips re: the 'stopping' comment above...

Be sure to mechanically adjust and equalize the Brakes from side-to-side first. Then, Brake Controller Amps will be applied equally between the Brake Drums to have ~equal stopping power. We just did this on a pal's 14' Wilderness Hardside while on a dirt road, and it made a big difference. I also first adjust my Brake Controller on a dry dirt road to apply proportional stopping power per the Trailer load. The std. practice I observe is to adjust Braking power to just 'short' of Wheel lock-up while remembering that a panic stop will send even more Amps to the Brakes.

I pulled my partially-loaded 5' x 9' Utility Trailer up-and-down the ice on McClure Pass yesterday S.W. of Aspen. First time I'd ever driven down a grade in 4WD and 1st Gear to keep the Trailer from 'coming around' and knocking my rear wheels out-of-track. A Semi w/an empty Low Boy 'Dozer Trailer was off in the ditch. A FWD Minivan coming at us had to turn around and give it up. No uphill traction was in his future. A small SUV was up and over the Guardrail on Vail Pass, buried. All were OK.

As the Sun now pops out, it's time to scrub the de-Icer 'Magnesium Chloride' off of everything. It 'eats' ABS Brake connections and Trailer Brake connections. Nasty, gummy, black guano. I soldered and heat shrunk all my Trailer Brake/Harness connections, since a failed Brake or Ground can = a night in the ditch or the Mortuary where there's no Guardrail. Got to this House in one piece. Knock on Masonite.

A pal's new 4 Door LWB Rubicon looks like it'll tow anything; another Barroom discussion...

Engineer Guy wrote:A couple of tips re: the 'stopping' comment above...

Be sure to mechanically adjust and equalize the Brakes from side-to-side first. Then, Brake Controller Amps will be applied equally between the Brake Drums to have ~equal stopping power. We just did this on a pal's 14' Wilderness Hardside while on a dirt road, and it made a big difference. I also first adjust my Brake Controller on a dry dirt road to apply proportional stopping power per the Trailer load. The std. practice I observe is to adjust Braking power to just 'short' of Wheel lock-up while remembering that a panic stop will send even more Amps to the Brakes.

I pulled my partially-loaded 5' x 9' Utility Trailer up-and-down the ice on McClure Pass yesterday S.W. of Aspen. First time I'd ever driven down a grade in 4WD and 1st Gear to keep the Trailer from 'coming around' and knocking my rear wheels out-of-track. A Semi w/an empty Low Boy 'Dozer Trailer was off in the ditch. A FWD Minivan coming at us had to turn around and give it up. No uphill traction was in his future. A small SUV was up and over the Guardrail on Vail Pass, buried. All were OK.

As the Sun now pops out, it's time to scrub the de-Icer 'Magnesium Chloride' off of everything. It 'eats' ABS Brake connections and Trailer Brake connections. Nasty, gummy, black guano. I soldered and heat shrunk all my Trailer Brake/Harness connections, since a failed Brake or Ground can = a night in the ditch or the Mortuary where there's no Guardrail. Got to this House in one piece. Knock on Masonite.

A pal's new 4 Door LWB Rubicon looks like it'll tow anything; another Barroom discussion...

Very interesting info. Thanks!