'SNO ESCAPE, New to me 7x14 CT conversion

[msnglinc]

Very Nice! Like the bed mechanism and the kitchen layout.

[Jiffypop207]

Running out of time on my deadline so things ARE getting done!!

Plumbing is completed with exception of tossing some straps under the tank. Gray water only as the toilet is a self contained unit. Here is the tank after mock-up and hole drilling. Pipe adapter in place, stub-up glued in, and time to mount.



Stub coming into the cabinet


Diagonal run through the cabinet walls and drain completed




Tank install was my cue that I could turn the trailer and bring it back on the tar. It provided more access parked on the lawn the way my yard slopes to work on the wires, tank, and anything else on that side under the trailer.


Made brackets to finally mount the modified step from last fall


Temporary held in place to burn it to the frame


Step in place. Since pulled it off to prime and paint the brackets and welds



Also welded the anti-drag roller brackets in place while the welder was out. Primed and painted those as well


I will get those all bolted back in place tonight. Ended the night cutting my access panel and fastened it in place


Plan for the evening is to put on the rest of the bead board and plywood on in the completed insulated areas, build the oven shelf, install the finished toe kick and light, and figure out my top molding situation. Bringing home some large cove molding as I think it will work best.

Adam

[RandomAbstract]

Following.

[Wookie97]

Nice job!!! Got a couple questions. Do you have any pics of how you mounted the tank? Looks like that is the kind that sets on the frame rails. Also what type of vent did you use?

[Jiffypop207]

Nice job!!! Got a couple questions. Do you have any pics of how you mounted the tank? Looks like that is the kind that sets on the frame rails. Also what type of vent did you use?

I simply drilled some holes in the flange to screw it up to the floor. The straps will hold the weight. Yes, I installed a vent under the sink. I will grab a picture of both of those later today or tonight.

Adam

[Jiffypop207]

Got some more work done despite a few interruptions and having to mow the lawn before it got out of control. I installed the step and the roller wheels. Scrapped the paint a tab with the wrench, oh well, and greased them up via the zerk fitting on the end of the bolt


Got the bead board and ply wood on the area that were insulated



I pulled a piece of the carpet tile I picked up and held it in place. That is going to look pretty sharp. I forgot to bring home the toe kick and the cove so that will likely get done tomorrow. I did however build and complete the shelf for the oven


Won't get any done tonight as Thursday's are bike nights and mental/physical rest days.

More to come Friday.

Adam

[McDave]

Amazing progress!
I can't believe how much you can get done. It looks really beautiful.
So the carpet tiles will cover the plywood?
Enjoy Bike Night, tonight is our first Bike Night of the season as well, Thursdays, June thru Sturgis, @ the Montana Bar.
Thanks again for all the pics.

[Jiffypop207]

Correct, carpet "wall paper" adhered to the plywood over the bead board.

[Jiffypop207]

Another productive considering. Had to go to a wake Friday and then Saturday was spent on the bike to and from the NHRA top fuel drags races in Epping NH (well worth skipping a day of production).

As Vicki insulated the remainder of the final wall, after we discussed table placement, I started in making the porta porti not feel so temporary and ridiculously low. Build a platform to get it up the the same height (+1 handicapped height) as the toilets in my house. I built the frame out of 2x4s that were kicking around


Decked it with plywood, finished the sides with beadboard, finished the top with a sheet of linoleum that I still had kicking around from my teardrop build, and finished the top front edges with aluminum angle that was also kicking around.


And the toilet mounted in place


The insulation was now completed so I jumped on the remaining bead board and plywood on that final wall. Bit of a pain cutting the radii around the window, but after search the garage I found a watering can that was the same ridius for marking purposes. Window will stay untrimmed for the first trip as I that will suck up to much precious time right now.



Took the old drop down table from my Aliner and cut it so it was the correct size. I want to be able to leave the table set up even when the bed is down so it works out to be 20.5" wide. Very functional and decent clearance to the bed. Mounted and hanging in the stored position.

As we pondered over the leg, initially I was planning on making a swing out plywood piece that is very common, a light bulb went off and I remembered I had something laying on the workbench under a few years clutter that would be perfect. It is a security device that braces a door to the floor to deter break-ins. It was perfect. No modifications required and it has plenty of adjuments built in. It is meant to brace to the door knob, so what better to act as the "leg stop" on the bottom of the trailer then a door knob? Also make the table hang better in the stored position as a stop. I stole a dummy knob off a closet door in my house and this is the result.



Time for something I have been wanting to do for a bit. Install some lights! First installed is the toe kick light. I am a big fan of indirect lighting...This is the same as the strip I put outside under the awning. They face out but still shine down and put a good reflection off the floor.



Second installed was the under cabinet light. Now the proof as to why I made my oven shelf supports so tall.....so the light carries straight through. I wanted to make sure the light strip stuck securely so I grabbed another piece of aluminum angle out of the corner of my garage, cut it to length, drilled counter bores into it, cleaned it with denatured alcohol, attached the light strip, mounted it, and then soldered the connections. The end with the conncetion didnt have much "stick" to it so I will fix it with some crazy glue. Benefit of the aluminum is it acts as a reflector some.




More to come nightly. Bed legs are high on the list as well as carpeting the walls, which will allow me to finish all my electrical.

Adam

[WoodSmith]

Adam,

First off I want to say that I love what you have done with this trailer! It looks great and the level of thought and workmanship that you have put into it is amazing!

I really like your floor plan as it is very similar to what I have in mind. I think I will be going with a 6 foot wide trailer (when the money fairy stops by!) so I may be a little more concerned about space than you are. When I saw this photo, http://s118.photobucket.com/user/pappamodes/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion%202014/IMG_20150614_190308852_zpsz7f1kot3.jpg.html I feel like there are competing needs at the front of the trailer. When the toilet is not in use, all that space is wasted. But when you do want to use the toilet, even a little change of space is going to be noticeable. Likewise, standing at the sink looks a little cramped. (From here anyway.) My brain spent the better part of the afternoon trying to add space to the sink area and remove space from the toilet when it isn't needed. I spent some time thinking about a wall on drawer slides, similar to a pull out pantry.

But I think I have a better idea, and I hope you don't mind me posting it here and giving some feedback.

With you magic wand, remove the wall between the toilet and the kitchen. Then lengthen the wall to the left of the toilet while sitting on it, this becomes a hinge point for a door/wall that can swing 270(ish) degrees open, on the side of the door/wall against the front of the trailer is _another_ pivot point with a second door/wall folded right up against it. When not in use, this combined unit would be right up against the step you made for the toilet. To use the toilet, you would release a catch and open the door a little past 90 degrees, then release the inner door, and open it to 90 degrees. This would then latch to the front of the trailer about where the current wall is. To make this even better, this door could be opened up to 180 degrees where it would catch on the cabinet between the sink and the stove, allowing a little more room for changing, washing up and so on.

I have a feeling that I'm not describing this well, I'm going to try to make a cardboard or Lego model and try again.

Glen

[Jiffypop207]

Adam,

First off I want to say that I love what you have done with this trailer! It looks great and the level of thought and workmanship that you have put into it is amazing!

I really like your floor plan as it is very similar to what I have in mind. I think I will be going with a 6 foot wide trailer (when the money fairy stops by!) so I may be a little more concerned about space than you are. When I saw this photo, http://s118.photobucket.com/user/pappamodes/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion%202014/IMG_20150614_190308852_zpsz7f1kot3.jpg.html I feel like there are competing needs at the front of the trailer. When the toilet is not in use, all that space is wasted. But when you do want to use the toilet, even a little change of space is going to be noticeable. Likewise, standing at the sink looks a little cramped. (From here anyway.) My brain spent the better part of the afternoon trying to add space to the sink area and remove space from the toilet when it isn't needed. I spent some time thinking about a wall on drawer slides, similar to a pull out pantry.

But I think I have a better idea, and I hope you don't mind me posting it here and giving some feedback.

With you magic wand, remove the wall between the toilet and the kitchen. Then lengthen the wall to the left of the toilet while sitting on it, this becomes a hinge point for a door/wall that can swing 270(ish) degrees open, on the side of the door/wall against the front of the trailer is _another_ pivot point with a second door/wall folded right up against it. When not in use, this combined unit would be right up against the step you made for the toilet. To use the toilet, you would release a catch and open the door a little past 90 degrees, then release the inner door, and open it to 90 degrees. This would then latch to the front of the trailer about where the current wall is. To make this even better, this door could be opened up to 180 degrees where it would catch on the cabinet between the sink and the stove, allowing a little more room for changing, washing up and so on.

I have a feeling that I'm not describing this well, I'm going to try to make a cardboard or Lego model and try again.

Glen

I understand what you are saying.....it would be kind of like a cabinet door for an entertainment cabinet where the doors open then slide into the cabinet out of sight....
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In your idea I think it would be easier to make the sliding extending partition thicker for two reasons. 1. the door could be on the toilet side thus only having to swing 90 to the front wall or 180 to the sink cabinet. And 2. with the door on the toilet side the stealthiness of the extending wall would be even better as you wouldn't see the door when stored.

I will further brainstorm your thought and say why not make the wall next to the toilet a three member unit that double extends straight to the sink cabinet.....2 set of drawer slides, easy peasy lol! Maybe a guide wheel on the leading edge?
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Those bypass door tracks would work well too.

We did lots of sizing the space up prior to building anything. Vicki can stand at the counter by the sink without touching the wall nor the counter while standing there. I am a fairly tall at 6'-9" so everything is cramped for me lol. Did I mention that if I am in the trailer I cannot stand up straight!?!

Adam

[Jiffypop207]

Raining lightly tonight so got some things done on the interior of the trailer....

Finished the mock up of the tv mount that we started last night. In the space I intended that tv to go you would physically have to take the tv off the wall every time that you wanted to put the bed up or down. This was an issue because the mount would even allow the tv to swing out of the way. So we came up with this idea. Slide the mount out and it will allow the tv to swing 180 degrees out of the way in the matter of seconds without have to take it down.



The mount is upside down in the pictures cause I think better to the left and the real situation the slide will pull to the right. I will flip it over for final install righting the mount.

Then I took the time to make my door. I had the panel from building the walls. I left it off the floor so it could swing easily and so the air would circulate to the exhaust vent better. I put a cresent moon in it because it really is just an indoor outhouse. A little character here and there makes these things special.




Then I took the time to put in the outlets I had. I need one more. Now I have power in the trailer so I do not have to keep running and extension cord for the work light or vacuum etc. One circuit works, but the other has an issue that I need to address tomorrow. I took a moment to get rid of all the excess wire for the AC. The outlet is right next to the unit. Who want to look at all that extra wire!?!
As it came apart...

How I put it back together....If you cannot see a difference, then I guess that is a good thing.


This looks much better


The little things add up to a full night quick.

Adam

[WoodSmith]

Adam,

Shortening power cords is an easy way to make the finished product look so much better.

Now that everyone is put to bed, I took some time to get out my utility knife, a ruler, a coke 12 pack fridge box and some pins. The photos should explain much better how this might work.

Now lets see if I can link them properly... (nope)

(text images to my email to re-size them...NOPE, find online image re-sizer...)

Closed for travel or kitchen use.

closed_toilet.jpeg (36.95 KiB) Viewed 4653 times

Small configuration for 'quick trips' or when someone is using the kitchen sink.

small_toilet.jpeg (14.26 KiB) Viewed 4653 times

Medium configuration with sink available.

toilet_and_sink.jpeg (36.51 KiB) Viewed 4652 times

The red ovals 1 & 2 are hinges that allow basically 360 degrees of swing. I'll post this and edit it into submission, sorry if anyone gets bombarded with notifications.
Glen

[WoodSmith]

Still a noob when it comes to pictures - sorry.

Daddy! I'm changing! A little privacy please!?

changing_room.jpeg (9.75 KiB) Viewed 4652 times

Doors open all the way for easier access to the cassette toilet.

maintenance.jpeg (39.12 KiB) Viewed 4652 times

Wheew, that was painful.

So, under pivot point 2, a small caster could be mounted to carry some weight. Rare earth magnets could be used to keep things in more or less the right place during use, with some bolt catches or hook latches to secure things for transit.

The hinges can be made of wood, with steel pins, given what I see of the rail and style storage area under the bed, you obviously have the tools and skill to make them. The size of each door can be adjusted to provide more or less space, I think that messing about with a full size mock up using cheap yard sticks might be in order before committing to real wood.

[WoodSmith]

So, during lunch I spent a little time messing with AutoCAD and drew up the hinge that I see for this kind of door.

dbl swing door iso.JPG (35.73 KiB) Viewed 4607 times

dbl swing door front.JPG (23.84 KiB) Viewed 4607 times

One downside is that the double pivot point makes the door a little floppy, but this can be fairly easily fixed with some cheap gears (like 10 for $4 from SurplusShed.com) fitted to the pivot point. The gear forces the double pivot, which is needed to get the 360 swing, to act like a single pivot.

The blue parts would be full height stiles, probably laminated from matching 1/2 inch thick stock in order to machine the hole and install the hinge pin. The smaller green pieces might best be made the same way, but not glued into lamination, but rather screwed together so that the doors can be removed.

WS