Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi all we picked up a 7x14 aluminum snow mobile trailer a few months back for moving stuff (military so we move a bunch) with a secondary plan of making a camper out of it. Empty weight is around 1.5K, and we maxed its (and our jeeps) GVWR on our move and it handled great, though getting the weight distribution hitch set up with the deep vee-nose took some time. We are living in New Orleans now, so number one item on the list is insulation and A/C if we hope to get any summer use out of it.







Idea/Question #1.- I'm thinking of trying to either do a canopy (ala coleman pop-up) or a rigid/foldable foam-ply structure (4-piece, a knee wall, 2 sides and a slant roof) to enclose the the ramps as beds. I have seen a few pictures on the net, but wasn't sure if anyone had attempted anything similar here. The ramp sizes will fit a queen in the back and a twin up front based on my measurements, and doing so gives me a ton more options on the interior.

#2-insulation, its all aluminum and I plan to look into quotes on spray foaming the interior and underside, but was curious what everyone's recommendations on insulation are. I'm a mech. engineer so I have a sound knowledge on thermo-dynamics and don't care to add a ton of extra layers to achieve a true thermal break (the ramp idea kills most of the isolation anyway) hence leaning toward having it sprayed. Not sure what the cost will be on that (anyone have experience there?) That said I'm also happy to just use a bigger furnace and air conditioner for the few occasions we'll need it. How has the single foam layers worked for you all? Any reason to use white vs pink style foam? I thought I saw over the top use denim insulation, any benefit on that over a rigid foam? I have extra head-room (6'6" or so) so I'll likely be dual layering the top regardless of the type of insulation I use.

#3-Fantastic vents- I hear nothing but praise about them. We have a seamless roof, I'd prefer to keep it that way. Just how good are they? Is it worth cutting into the roof for that & 2 anyone have experience with side mounting them?

#4-I'm leaning toward a dual vent portable heat-pump as I can get some use out of it in my garage, and can vent it out the side 'gas' door already installed on the trailer with zero head-ache until I decide on my actual usage and long term plans. I've seen mixed reviews and thought I'd take any input on them. My thoughts are if its actually designed and engineered well it should work almost as well as any other style, with slightly less power efficiency due to the intake/exhaust. I'm looking at this one, as its only one I could find that claimed it still worked down to freezing (most had an operating range NLT 50):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTV ... PDKIKX0DER
We had a heat pump in our last house which worked well but I'm not sure this can compare.

#5- Wiring: I'm leaning toward using wall mount wiring conduit over an in wall installation for a variety of reasons, with the exception of a few of the 12v devices (lights etc). Any pro's/con's.

That covers it for now
Cheers,
Alex

This is similar to what I'm thinking on the ramp doors....

http://www.starling-travel.com/2013/02/ ... ification/


I'll need to play with the dimensions to see if I can get them to collapse into the dimensions of the ramp itself, but think it should be easily doable. Figuring out the hinge orientation and the flashing to keep it tight is going to be a little more difficult.

wanabxtrm

Welcome to our forum. You have found a great place to find answers and to get ideas. I am sure others will jump in and pass on their thoughts. I myself and just starting my project and have more questions then answers.

Oh and BTW, that is a very nice trailer.

I can't offer any advice but can say that I am envious of your trailer and hope to be able to build a CTC conversion some day.

...Example with a canvas foldout... So it's definitely doable. Still think the hard sides will be better in the long run. Though we'll see which will be cheaper and easier to make.

http://www.getmypointllc.com/canine_cargo_carriers.php

I used the foil sided white insulation inside, and pink underneath. The pink and blue insulation boards have a slightly higher r value. They also don't absorb any moisture. If you live in a humid climate, I would stay away from any insulation that will absorb moisture such as denim.

If you are still going to use the trailer for cargo, maybe you should consider having the bedroom "hard" roof sections hinged at the top of the ramp door openings, with the end walls hinged to them. This way they can be lifted up out of the way when you want to use the ramps. That way they do not have to be as robust to handle loading traffic, as they would if they folded down onto the ramp doors. This would also give the option of having them be just canopies without folding the side walls down.

So I've made some headway. I've figured out the layout and taped it out.
Here's a quick sketch up view.

Basically counters opposite the door, with a neo-angle shower at the edge of the V (assuming I make it as far as installing a permanent grey water tank. I'll hash out the benches/tables in the back/left corner here soon once I decide if I can make the bedrooms happen easily or not.

Also picked up one of these from amazon....http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTV ... UTF8&psc=1

I put some serious consideration into a mini split but couldn't figure out how to easily mount it to the tongue (because of the vee nose) without it hanging off on a mount/platform of some kind. I'm trying to keep the roof clean and intact as a single sheet if possible. But more than likely it'll end up with a vent/fan up there at a some point. In any case my honda 2k runs this one without much fuss.

Hopefully I'll get some quotes on spray in foam insulation this week, Howe's was averaging ~$15 a sheet for insulation so I need to do the math on that. The portable heat pump did ok in the evening and was slowly bringing down the temps this afternoon. So I think it should handle the space ok once its insulated. The bigger question is whether it will handle it if I ever get as far as making the enclosed toppers for the 'bedroom' wings aka fold down ramps. The 'fuel filler door' access worked out perfect for the vent hoses. Though I think I'm going to try to dissemble it and rotate it so it opens vertically to give a 'roof' over the access.

I'm using a fairly large, but old, battery from my diesel jeep. It was still holding a charge well before I pulled it, so we'll see how it does in this heat since its sat for abit in the garage. Along that line I started looking into a solar cell to keep it topped off.

My initial direction was harbor freight sales. But moved toward this....
http://www.amazon.com/Solar-Panel-Start ... olar+panel

Anyone have any other recommendations? I'd like to stay near $150-200 on the panel.

Thanks!

Harbor Freight cells are amorphous junk. If you just want to keep the batteries topped off and maybe a little more, look at a 50watt Renogy panel on amazon. Mono cells, nice size, and probably cheaper. You don't need an MPPT for 50 watts - get the $30 Renogy controller or the small Morningstar.

They have a 100 watt kit for about $200, also.

Edit: I see your link now on my computer and that is the kit I was talking about. Your link didn't show on my tapatalk app.

Here is the 50 watt box size - just arrived.

We have used the Renogy panels for work projects and been very satisfied. I installed 2 x 100w with a small MPPT and they cranked out some amps.

So I've got the 100w solar panel (renogy) but not mounted, and a 10g propane tank enroute in the mail. Managed to get the battery placement confirmed and frame mocked up, ends up with less than 1/4" extra space, but it fits under the trailer in the frame.

Waiting on insulation quotes before starting the electrical wiring.

Any more progress?

As far as the build goes. I opted for rigid poly insulation boards due to cost after getting a few spray quotes, including pricing the DIY kits. Ripping them on the table saw makes quick work for sizing them. After trying a few adhesives I'm sticking with knocked down great stuff spray cans. I have 2 layers of half inch between the studs, and I'll put a final layer across the top for the sides. I haven't looked at the ceiling yet to decide. The battery is in, barely fit with the box under the frame but it worked out. New jack is on, allowing the large propane tank up front, and I'm slowing going through insulating and starting to wire everything up.

I have one side of the trailer insulated at this point and prepping to put in a fantastic vent which recently showed up in the mail. My original intention was to mount it vertically on the drivers side of the trailer just aft of the V. After receiving the vent I realized the left side of the vent is the side the opening arm is, which is much stiffer. The right side, which would face forward if mounted on the drivers side is unsupported and flexes abit.

I'm not worried about water intrusion with the vertical mount; between the existing gasket, and a homemade gutter/sill it'll be fine. But I am reconsidering putting it on the drivers side because of the flex of the dome. I could see the wind possibly catching/pulling at it while going down the interstate. Installing it on the passenger side of the trailer puts the opening arm forward, and would alleviate the concern.

Anyone have thoughts on the matter? Appreciate the input.

wanabxtrm, Howdy;

Check out how they are installed on regular RVs. That's how they are designed.

hank