7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

Fixed the awning pull by making a new one just the right length and made out of a stronger strap. The one that came with the awning was really cheap.



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[flboy]

looks great!

Thanks!

[flboy]

Done something I have been wanting to do for a while. TV under the awning! I put the cable jack in during construction, but never made a mount for the TV. With this mount, I just disconnect cable, power and pull a pin to disconnect inside and pin it outside, connect cable, plug in, and there you go. I was trying to avoid something large and unsightly, but wanted something that is easy to mount by just putting in a pin. I only had to drill in one additional screw on the outside since I used one screw that was there already in the siding. It is all secure into a steel stud.

I can see using this on some cooler evenings under the awning just enjoying being outdoors or on a rainy day under the awning when I don't want to be couped up inside.

I made the mount out of a stainless steel hinged hasp and the catch part of a barrel bolt lock. This was as small as I could make it as it is permanent on the side and will be held back with velcro. The TV can swing all angles when mount just as when inside.

I really don't like the looks of that mount on the side... but it is there now and does what it is intended for. I may just get some silver paint and paint it the same color as the trailer so it doesn't stand out so much?



I am going to get a longer pin. The screwdriver was just to test it all out. The power drops down from underneath. Takes about 2 minutes to install and about 30 seconds to pull off inside. :-)









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[flboy]

7.1A in filtered sun through the trees. Those connections made a big difference.



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[McDave]

Yeah, that's a work of art you've built. I think you are right about never being done. Every trip I come back with a list of ideas and refinements, then I lose the list. I'm thinking a whiteboard attached to the door might help. Or maybe I'll just tell the wife, she never forgets anything...
I believe electrolysis only takes place with DC. The electrolyte could just be the salt air, or condensation, or both. Also the screws attaching the box to the panel may be an issue. You might give thought to separating the Pos. and Neg. in different boxes. Conformal coat is great stuff unless you need to rework. I think that would be the last resort, but maybe the best answer. Maybe just pack it with cosmoline? You could clean that out but it is a tad flammable! Maybe not a great idea on the roof with wiring. What you did may solve it.

McDave

[flboy]

I finally made the mount plate and installed a Drok AC Power Meter on the main line in (Dremel tool and a diamond plate outlet cover). This just monitors the Shore or Gen input so I can manage the loads as needed. That 672W is pretty much just the Air Conditioner running on high and maybe some small parasitic drain from the microwave and TV electronics.

When running off the inverter, this meter goes off (no power applied) and the killawatt meter on the front of the inverter provides the same information.

This is actually a very nice meter with color display for $18.45. No shunts or etc. It is just an inductive pickup you put on the main hot wire and then power to the meter which is also the sense input. I think I need to print another label.. just noticed the "S" cut off at the start of Shore.

[m.colley]

Looking good there Don, like a 5 star hotel on wheels.

Martin

[flboy]

Thanks Martin. Once the CTC is done enough to start using, all these little improvement projects are fun. Like I said... Never done.

All the little amenities make it nice. Good thing I can fix this stuff, because it is just more to go wrong now too. :-) The bottom line is I don't need any of it, but I plan to spend a good 6 to 12 months on the road working on my bucket list starting next July. I Will be comfortable if nothing else. :-)


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[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

With all the lit-up displays you may not be able to get much sleep what with all the 'Night Lights'
you'll have ... up side is you shouldn't be stubbin' any toes if you need to get a drink of water(?),
in the middle of the night.
, .

hank

[flboy]

This panel is in the entry and not visible from the bed. It will put off a soft nightlight glow by the front door. All the other panels are backlit and that
can be turned on/off. You and I think alike on those things. I had a couple other lit up switches I changed because at night ,all those little lights add up and I like the dark for sleeping. ;-)

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[WoodSmith]

Not good! Just doing some preventative maintenance and inspections today on the CTC roof. Going to fix this today and use something to coat and protect these connections. I am thinking I'll use the same stuff I use one battery terminals or just some dialectic grease.




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Don, While looking at this picture today I noticed that the two screws that go through the plastic box are very corroded. Are they steel screws? It looks like they go into the aluminum panel frames. I wonder if these are the route that the corrosion takes to enter the box? The dissimilar metals are probably exposed to the open environment under the solar panel, allowing the screw head inside the box to be a catalyst and get things oxidizing in there. Replacing those two fasteners with aluminum screws or nylon bolts might be a fairly simple solution.

I can't tell what you replaced them with after your maintenance.

[flboy]

I think the screws are steel. When I open up to check in a month or so, I will replace with an aluminum or nylon screw. Not much strength required to hold. Can't hurt in any case and I really am clueless on the source. This would be a great experiment. :-)

I did not replace those screws. I just put them back in.

Thank you for comment. Certainly appreciate tjat.

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[McDave]

Don, While looking at this picture today I noticed that the two screws that go through the plastic box are very corroded. Are they steel screws? It looks like they go into the aluminum panel frames. I wonder if these are the route that the corrosion takes to enter the box? The dissimilar metals are probably exposed to the open environment under the solar panel, allowing the screw head inside the box to be a catalyst and get things oxidizing in there. Replacing those two fasteners with aluminum screws or nylon bolts might be a fairly simple solution.

I can't tell what you replaced them with after your maintenance.

I think the screws are steel. When I open up to check in a month or so, I will replace with an aluminum or nylon screw. Not much strength required to hold. Can't hurt in any case and I really am clueless on the source. This would be a great experiment. :-)

I did not replace those screws. I just put them back in.

Thank you for comment. Certainly appreciate tjat.

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Ahhh.. Now we're getting somewhere. You'da thought someone wood'a thunk of that? Hmm...

I believe electrolysis only takes place with DC. The electrolyte could just be the salt air, or condensation, or both. Also the screws attaching the box to the panel may be an issue. You might give thought to separating the Pos. and Neg. in different boxes.
McDave

McDave

[flboy]

I finally fastened the microwave to the countertop so I don't have to keep remembering to put it on the floor before I move the trailer. I just use 2 L brackets and 2 screws each side to hold the L bracket down and then I use the existing cover screws to hold to the bracket. I did this in my old CTC and went down some real rough roads. Should be fine. It seems real steady.



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[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Question, ... how are your buss bars attached to the junction box? Do those fasteners
go through the box and be exposed on the bottom? Did you coat the wires in dielectric
grease or anything or 'tin' them? Scratch the silicone idea and try a thin strip of good ol'
butyl putty tape instead.
Like the idea suggested by 2 others about the creeping crud theory re. the mounting screws.

Ok, it was more then 1 question ... what ya gonna do take away a birthday and send me to sea ???
BTDT.

hank