7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[Padilen]

Where is Tommy?


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[flboy]

I have updated my electrical schematic on my CTC to reflect changes I have made recently. It reflects the Manual Transfer Switch instead of the Automatic Transfer Switch (which failed prematurely) , the Solar MPPT controller connection directly to the battery via an 80A DC Breaker, and some larger DC breakers on the Inverter and Solar charger input.

I noticed on my DC breakers that they would get warm when running near capacity and they dropped a little voltage. Since the breakers are there to protect the wiring mostly (also used to isolate circuits for repairs or troubleshooting), I increased their rating size. Previously I had them about 10 to 20% above the intended max circuit draw. When running my Microwave at full power, for instance, the inverter breaker would get hot and occasionally trip if cooking something more than a three or four minutes. They shouldn't do that, but probably trip due the quality of the breakers. They are basically a thermal device and depending on the quality and ability to shed heat during use, may trip prematurely. The larger breaker will compensate in this case and still protect the wiring in case of a dead short. That's the theory anyway.

In any case, I hope the following may help someone designing their own system. This fits my design goals, but may not be suitable for someone who does not have the electrical background. You can create a mess (and fire hazard) hooking all this up if you are not careful.Exceeding your abilities and skills when it comes to electrical work can be downright dangerous.

[flboy]

Where is Tommy?


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He is still kicking as far as I know. I am going to check up on him soon... want to go riding the KTM!

[Padilen]

Thanks for checking !


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[jr9744]

Drain Hose will drain down through the floor. Already draining water tonight.

You've built one sexy trailer. Congrats, it looks great.

I plan on doing exactly what you did with your ac unit. But how did you modify it to put that hose that will drain the water to the outside? I've never really opened up an ac like that. Or did this ac come with that 'port' for you to latch on too? Also, I read that you say mention something about the ac being 'non cycling'. How do you know this? Is it all ac's below 8,000 BTU?

[flboy]

@jr9744, the AC I have did not have a drip port. It is designed for the fan to throw the water onto the condensor coils to help cool. In normal window use, the slant allows excess to drip out if needed. I actually drilled a hole at the low point in output of the evaporator where the condensation collects and put a 1/4in hose fitting. I hated that water slinging noise and wanted to make sure no water leaked inside since it is all inside a cabinet. The hose drains out the floor. There are some pics somehwere in this thread of the drain.

Not sure on the non-cycling comment. Could have meant short cycling? In any case, the 6000 BTU AC in my trailer cycles normally except in extreme hot where it runs more often than not. 6000 BTU would not suffice in my size trailer if not well insulated, so consider your size and how well insulated when designing your system. I was balancing the need to cool against power requirements and, in my case, have found a good balance. I might go with an 8000BTU if I ever need to replace just to give some margin on the hottest days in full sun. I may also insulate the floor underneath first to see what that does for me first since I want to do that anyhow for future travel to colder places. I never insulated the floor. My CTC is somewhat of an experiment for me.. it is a process.

Good luck. Hope this helped.

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[jr9744]

@jr9744, the AC I have did not have a drip port. It is designed for the fan to throw the water onto the condensor coils to help cool. In normal window use, the slant allows excess to drip out if needed. I actually drilled a hole at the low point in output of the evaporator where the condensation collects and put a 1/4in hose fitting. I hated that water slinging noise and wanted to make sure no water leaked inside since it is all inside a cabinet. The hose drains out the floor. There are some pics somehwere in this thread of the drain.

Not sure on the non-cycling comment. Could have meant short cycling? In any case, the 6000 BTU AC in my trailer cycles normally except in extreme hot where it runs more often than not. 6000 BTU would not suffice in my size trailer if not well insulated, so consider your size and how well insulated when designing your system. I was balancing the need to cool against power requirements and, in my case, have found a good balance. I might go with an 8000BTU if I ever need to replace just to give some margin on the hottest days in full sun. I may also insulate the floor underneath first to see what that does for me first since I want to do that anyhow for future travel to colder places. I never insulated the floor. My CTC is somewhat of an experiment for me.. it is a process.

Good luck. Hope this helped.

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Cool, i'll go back and look at the pictures of the ac. I will be doing the same thing, just a little uneasy about the drain. Once I get an AC and open it up it may become clearer. I'll be looking for the low point in the evaporator.

I plan on insulating everywhere in the trailer including the floors. I can stand the cold, but I can't stand to be hot. And although I am currently in MD, I will spend a lot of time in FL since my family is out there. So the AC needs to be right. I think I will go with 8,000 BTU since your trailer is the almost the same size as mines.

Thanks for the Info!

[flboy]

Cool, i'll go back and look at the pictures of the ac. I will be doing the same thing, just a little uneasy about the drain. Once I get an AC and open it up it may become clearer. I'll be looking for the low point in the evaporator.

I plan on insulating everywhere in the trailer including the floors. I can stand the cold, but I can't stand to be hot. And although I am currently in MD, I will spend a lot of time in FL since my family is out there. So the AC needs to be right. I think I will go with 8,000 BTU since your trailer is the almost the same size as mines.

Thanks for the Info!

You are welcome.

If your AC is like mine, you will see a little channel in the bottom pan off to one side that comes from under the head wall that separates the evaporator section from the outside/condenser section. Right there where it begins to flow back to the water trough by the fan blades was a good spot for me to make a drain. I have seen some AC's that have a good spot for a drain that just needs to be drilled. Set the unit on your bench top and let it run on a humid day. You will see where the water comes from and the best place. In reality, there are probably a few places to tap. The idea is to get it to drain before it overflows the pan which is what it can do if the water doesn't evaporate off the condenser coils fast enough. The thing is that the more humid, the more water and less evaporation. If you are in the south... it will eventually overflow. Good luck.

[jr9744]

I have seen some AC's that have a good spot for a drain that just needs to be drilled. Set the unit on your bench top and let it run on a humid day. You will see where the water comes from and the best place. In reality, there are probably a few places to tap.

That is a good idea. That is what i'm gonna do. Let it run outside and see where the water accumulates and go from there!!

[flboy]

I bought one of those Plastic/Teflon cutting boards from Wal Mart and cut it down to fit over one of my sinks. I used some of the cutoff pieces to make stops so it can't move around on the sink. It makes a nice cutting board and gives me more counter space and food preparation area when not using that sink. It will fit either side. Nice addition for ~$9. That, along with the stove burner covers I added last week makes a big difference in usable counter space up front. That is kind of lacking.

I am back from meeting my newest grandson in Dallas and have the next two days off. I plan to get the electric tongue jack installed and some other "electrical" projects to include indirect LED lighting over the bed and under the awning, Freshwater tank sensors, and a working light up front of the trailer by the Gas Bottle.. I actually have a large list for little things to finish/improve. I'll try to post up some pics as I go. Some of the items on my "punch list" are improvements/additions after using the trailer 4 or 5 times and some things , like tank sensors, are things I never finished.

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

As far as the tank sensors go ... I haven't even looked at mine in over 2 or 3 years.
My coat hooks are above then and so they remain hidden. I've learned to "listen" to the
Black tank. The sound will change when it needs to be emptied. All part of getting to
'know' your trailer. The sensors are well known to give false readings after a few uses.
It only takes a small bit something to get 'hung ' onto one of the sensor studs or condensation
to give the false reading.

hank

[Padilen]

My little 5 gallon tank Don't Need No stinking sensor . I can actually look in my toilet and see my the level of . We never had them in out trailers or Motorhome. My mom does have them in her TT that's on a lot. She is hooked to septic. She fills her black tank- she knows by the control panel when to open dump valve releasing her .


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[flboy]

I'll probably just hook up the Fresh Water and Gray Water. I can see the one fresh water tank, but I will eventually put some other things in that cabinet that may hide the tank view. In any case, I won't hook up the black given all the bad reviews.

My biggest issue will be gray water. That is what gets full the quickest with showers and etc.. I can hold more fresh water than I have holding tanks.... so I want to keep an eye on the gray. At some point next year I will add a small transfer pump so I can use gray to flush the toilet and/or transfer when I am on extended boondocks and need the capacity. I am going to wait to see if that ever really becomes an issue before I invest the time to hook that up. It is just part of my thought process.

In any case, I am fabricating "Dip Stick" type sensors for the Gray and Blackwater tanks that will mount in the floor under the vanity cabinet. I'll just need to drill and put in 1" gromments in both tanks to slide them in and out. I have the design in my head and will test it on the gray water first. I'll always be able to pull them out for "cleaning" when needed and the way I am designing them (inside a screened pipe sort of like a well head), they should not get debris on the sensors. If this works.. I'll document for others. Something similar is sold on the market for $300 in industrial applications. I should be able to build this for less than $30 with some PVC, typical tank sensors, and some potting materiel. We'll see. Won't know if it will work unless I try it.

[flboy]

Two more "little things" to improve based on actual usage. Hank gave me the idea for #2. Thanks Hank!

#1, A place to put my keys, phone and wallet where it won't be in the way and easy to find. I am thinking I may add a USB charger right above so it can charge on the shelf also during the day. At night, I have a charging shelf by the bed.




#2, Even heat distribution in the oven made out of 2 12" square stone tiles from Home Depot. I had to cut one of the tiles to make it all fit. For less than $4.00, we'll find out if it is worth it the next time I make a Pizza when camping.

[pk4013]

Excellent conversion! I see that you placed your freshwater tanks inside and you have a fill door on each side of the trailer, I was wondering if you would explain how you connected the 2 tanks together.

Thanks