McDave wrote:"McDave... it is kinda funny when you thing about it... Tommy's AC goes through no less that 3 breakers to get to power... the 20 circuit breaker, the 30A main, and then another 20A in his house panel to the outlet which has a GFCI built in. "
Well, doesn't that seem like 1 breaker too many. That is to say, can the 30amp main really be a main if it runs from a 20amp GFCI? Mains generally run from mains or incoming power from the pole. That's a bit convoluted, at the least. Certainly there is no advantage to having a 30amp feed from a 20amp, GFCI issues aside. What age is the house?
Lots of clues here, may be best to verify all breakers.
McDave
McDave... talking about the 30 Main in Tommy's Camper's power center not the house Main. The trailer is wired with a 30A connection so a 30A main is needed which feeds the bus bar and the circuits through 20 Breakers.. When plugged into the house, I agree... the 30A breaker in the trailer is irrelevant in terms of wire protection... the 20A breakers will go first.
The 30A main in his trailer is going through a cord with adapter, plugged into a 15A GFCI wall outlet protected by a 20A house breaker. Ideally, he'd have a 30A outlet to plug his camper into... Most people will temporarily plug their camper in this way and yes sometimes the house breakers will pop because their service is diminished due to the plug in and they run more than they should.... Tommy said he was popping breakers in several locations. Of course breakers should always be suspect.. but I doubt they were all bad... His AC was clearly lugging to start and most likely exceeding the current over time curve on the breaker(s) (the HACR curve) ... makes sense to me. It only takes 12A to run so all is well when he plugs into the garage now. His house is fine. The root cause of GFCI one still has me going a bit , but whatever the case, the startup current is related because it works now.