Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

That copper wire conduit is amazing!! Pretty sure that will be stollen and added to my trailers, wires run inside walls are hard to add to, wire outside is much better to work with

Looks like your and family are having an amazing time.


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Drilled another hole in the side of my trailer. Ran the antenna cable in and mounted all my wifi booster stuff.
The power cord was really long so I barber poled it around some copper tubing.
Tomorrows project is to get the outdoor wifi antenna mounted.


Wifi Adapter
Wifi Router
Adapter Holder
Antenna Cable
Outdoor Antenna Link

Hi Iconfabul8. How is that wifi setup working for you?

I have one, but never really use it. It seems wherever I am that has wifi, also has good cell coverage and I use my 4G connection which is faster for me and I can tether my PC and use unlimited data. I do use the cell phone booster when needed. It works well.

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flboy wrote:Hi Iconfabul8. How is that wifi setup working for you?

I have one, but never really use it. It seems wherever I am that has wifi, also has good cell coverage and I use my 4G connection which is faster for me and I can tether my PC and use unlimited data. I do use the cell phone booster when needed. It works well.

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My problem is, I couldn't even get a signal sitting in my driveway. So this works much nicer. I can go watch Blacklist in peace now!
I will probably look into a cell booster and tv antenna in the future as well.

Iconfabul8, this is what I use if ever needed. Looks like it is made by Alpha also. It plugs directly to USB port on the Laptop which provides power. It works well. Similarly, I can connect to my WiFi out in the backyard inside the CTC whereas very little signal in the back yard and none in the CTC. If I used this sort of thing a lot, I'd get one similar to yours where all devices can connect, but it connects directly to the laptop so it is simple. I can share the connection on the laptop via bluetooth app if my wife were on board and we both wanted to use the Wifi.



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A lot of your experience sounds very familiar. I have the same toilet and Icon tank,and the tank could be a little more steady. We have just completed 5600 miles,many rough gravel roads and potholes,during our Newfoundland trip,and the toilet is still ok. My gate valve drops straight out the bottom,so the flange edge hasn't been an issue.
I also had a similar experience getting the shower stall into the trailer. Too funny.
And that towel bar. Got the same one.
I think these trailers may be cousins.
That's a really nice job you did,looks great.

Solarseniors wrote:A lot of your experience sounds very familiar. I have the same toilet and Icon tank,and the tank could be a little more steady. We have just completed 5600 miles,many rough gravel roads and potholes,during our Newfoundland trip,and the toilet is still ok. My gate valve drops straight out the bottom,so the flange edge hasn't been an issue.
I also had a similar experience getting the shower stall into the trailer. Too funny.
And that towel bar. Got the same one.
I think these trailers may be cousins.
That's a really nice job you did,looks great.

You should start a thread and post some pics. I would love to see your rig. I'm glad you are having good luck with the tank, I will for you!

Started this project a while ago. Maybe I will get it installed some time this winter.
I bought a deep 1/3 serving pan to make my very small sink out of(12"X6"x6".) Cut a hole in the bottom and
pressed a recess in the bottom for the drain to set in. During the pressing, the bottom wrinkled a little.
I worked the wrinkles out as best I could but if you have ever worked with stainless you know it can be pretty stubborn.
Anyway, it shouldn't be a problem and will work just fine, but it did caused a small disturbance in my ocd force. The faucet is a single temp model.
I plan to run only hot to it.

Hey Icon,
That is a great idea for a custom sized sink. I used a small stainless mixing bowl. It's a long shot, but you may be able to heat it and shock it to shrink the stretch marks out of that one. Remember, metal, especially stainless has a memory. You might try to heat 'er up on the BBQ an then shock it with an appropriate sized hunk 'o dry ice. If you try this method, we will need video, please. Oh yeah, and be careful blah blah, safety gear blah blah, etc. etc......
Good luck and Godspeed Icon!

McDave

PS. Put a fender washer in the recess to keep it flat during process.

Icon, Howdy;

McDave wrote:Hey Icon,
That is a great idea for a custom sized sink. I used a small stainless mixing bowl. It's a long shot, but you may be able to heat it and shock it to shrink the stretch marks out of that one. Remember, metal, especially stainless has a memory. You might try to heat 'er up on the BBQ an then shock it with an appropriate sized hunk 'o dry ice. If you try this method, we will need video, please. Oh yeah, and be careful blah blah, safety gear blah blah, etc. etc......
Good luck and Godspeed Icon!

McDave

PS. Put a fender washer in the recess to keep it flat during process.

From the sounds of what McD is advocating we would all appreciate
the video of the "Ice-Works" Show.

McD, You still got all the digits you had at birth??? Both eyes and ears??? Just
curious..

hank

Ok, I'll just clarify those suggestions for the sake of liability and because I'd love to see it work.
The wrinkles and waves indicate that the metal was stretched slightly during the hole cutting and recessing operations, that is to be expected since this was a pan not a sink when it was stamped and formed. Also the hole is dead center of the largest plane. I'm guessing you used a hole cutter that is a punch and die knock out style and then a similar system to recess..? Stainless can be a bear to cut with saws. So you just want to slightly shrink the area to make it pull taught again. This is the method you may have seen used to repair hail damage to cars in years gone by. Those dents were heated up, usually with a torch or industrial heat gun, but not enough to melt the paint, then a small hunk of dry ice would be placed in the dent and it would shrink the metal and super cool that area, and since it was a focused spot operation, the area around the dent was still stable and would only allow it to shrink back to it's original shape or memory. So you don't need it to be white hot but it does need to be made more "plastic" and free up the molecules, then slam on the brakes with the dry ice and lock in the memory. I just thought that a BBQ could heat evenly and you could do it out side. There is not a lot of mass in dry ice, but it is super cold and can make the shrink happen instantly while the molecules are moving free-er. If you put a fender washer or two bolted through the recess, that should stabilize that area and allow the shrink to happen around it. It doesn't take much stretch to make a wavy area since you are effectively trying to make a 6.25 x 10.375 piece fit into a 6.0 x 10.00 hole for example. If it can't go out, it will go up and/or down. I'm sure Icon has got a handle on the concept here.
Disclaimer; Never, ever do anything. Ever. Something could go wrong. McDave is not responsible for any damages to person or property. Fun is an unintended by-product. Your results may vary.
Yeah Hank, still got all my stuff, it's just worn out. Especially right under my hat and from there down.

McDave

You guys are funny!

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McD, Howdy;

How long did it take you to hyper-ventilate to get all of that out?
Hope it didn't hurt to awful much. Betcha feel better after uncorkin'
all that info in one poop. Also glad ya just feel pooped from the
hatband down. by-the-way, great explanation.

hank

Iconfabul8 wrote:

JRAnt74 wrote:Looks fantastic! Really makes me wanna buy an enclosed cargo trailer, just so I can give it a go!

Do it!!!

So I did end up buying a cargo trailer! Although I won't be doing a camper conversion, I will be building it out as a "mobile workshop" type of deal. Will be using a lot of info and techniques gathered from this site!

Any idea what the finished weight will be?