6x10 Oregon Cargo Camper Conversion

[Mark959]

All of the windows are water tight, had a few good rains.



Got a new vanity/sink, it had everything I wanted and was a good price so why not. The reviews are skewed by people who don't know how to install it properly, I am confident it will be nice. Now I just need to buy the pump and tanks, and outside shower kit . Already know how I want to do it, just have to fork out the dough.

http://www.costco.com/Daisy-White-Vanit ... 56748.html
Walked out with it for 180.

[flboy]

All of the windows are water tight, had a few good rains.



Got a new vanity/sink, it had everything I wanted and was a good price so why not. The reviews are skewed by people who don't know how to install it properly, I am confident it will be nice. Now I just need to buy the pump and tanks, and outside shower kit . Already know how I want to do it, just have to fork out the dough.

http://www.costco.com/Daisy-White-Vanit ... 56748.html
Walked out with it for 180.

Nice Sink and Price! I like how deep the sink is.

[Mark959]

thanks, I am pretty happy with that purchase!

Figured out how I want to run the water tanks - behind the axles to counter the front weight - I will use dual 21 or 25 gallon tanks linked at the bottom so they fill and drain together. Bottom of my axle tube is 8", those tanks are 9 and 10" deep respectively. On demand pump on the main could probably handle hot and cold, if not I will add another so hot and cold each have a pump.

For gray water I'm thinking half that capacity in a tank right under the floor area of the sink, because I plan on having the shower outside so I wont need as much capacity.

[McDave]

Hey Mark,
That's what I did. Black tank in front of axle 29gal, fresh tank behind axle 26gal. Also, I installed a diverter valve on the shower drain line, so it can empty to ground when needed, thus extending black tank capacity. No grey tank. I usually try to travel with minimal fresh water and just fill it at the last place with city water before leaving the pavement. I drink bottled "water" and use it for coffee, so fresh is just for showers/toilet. I do add a couple capfuls of Clorox when filling, just cause.

McDave

[Mark959]

Sorry for the lack of news

I have used the trailer several times now, it is worlds better with the improvements I've shown... With it painted inside the lights work better. I still haven't purchased a battery box, I might have to rig something up myself. I wanted to mount storage to either the doors rather than the frame, so I can still open the barn doors when needed and have whatever is in the way swivel out, or make some giant hinge resembling a gate off the frame for the same purpose. Maybe I should add a 2" hitch and cargo carrier/basket style device. Then u-bolt whatever metal boxes I want for that.


For the longest time I've wanted a ramp door on the back, but now I'm thinking I want to add some sort of deck or storage to the back. I bought an inflatable kayak canoe that I need to store, the batteries I still want to mount on the side I think, the front tongue has my propane tanks right now.. Ideas are welcome.


Things are at a stand still until I get more funds set aside, I might plug away at getting the plumbing ready

[hankaye]

Mark959, Howdy;

Just caught the line above where you were considering the placement of your water tanks.
"Figured out how I want to run the water tanks - behind the axles to counter the front weight - I will use dual 21 or 25 gallon tanks linked"
Just a reminder that you ideally want a 60% : 40% split with the weight with the 60% being
to the front of the trailer. So with approx. 42 to 50 gallons of water @ ~8.4 lbs /gallon
You would be stuffing approx. 353 lbs to 420 lbs aft of the axle(s). Something to consider ...

hank

[Mark959]

Your feedback is appreciated, I will do some calculation factoring in batteries and water weight, my axles are pretty far back so I think I am nose heavy. thanks again

[McDave]

Hey Mark,
I don't know this to be true, but intuition tells me that these trailers are built with the axles placed for proper tongue weight when empty. If loaded evenly or weight placed directly over axles tongue weight would remain correct.
The only way to know true tongue weight is to weigh it. One advantage to having fresh tank is to use water weight as ballast. It can make a big difference in "towability".

McDave

[Mark959]

Been thinking to the future, I want a ramp door that I can use as a patio deck (and for loading).

Anyone here know of a manufacturer I can buy the loading ramp doors from separately? I tried looking but couldnt find any. I could make it if I have to but would prefer to buy it.

Soon I will be wiring electricity and plumbing, just waiting on funds

[Mark959]

Back at it again, got some 12V can lights that are low profile, got the ceiling material just need to find a good sound deadener that is butyl based. I want to cut the rain noise down a lot since it is unbearable under a tree here. Oregon is rainy for about 9 months a year...

Looking for a metal box for the batteries to put next to the wheel behind the axle, or I could get a bigger box for the tongue but I wanted a box there for storage only ideally. Maybe you guys can help... maximum width would be 10" to stay inline with the fenders, length under 32" without cutting the fender, and height I really dont care about as long as it is above 11" minimum... These are GC2 batteries - each is 10.25x7.125x10.875 in LxWxH, and about 65lbs each.

So far I found this maybe on its side, then it would be 13 tall and 10 wide - http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-ALUMINUM-PIC ... 2076025159

going with that guy I could insulate the box, if you guys think it is worthwhile. The batteries don't need a waterproof enclosure, I just want something to keep people from stealing them or to keep rocks and other things from damaging them. Not willing to sacrifice internal space right now.... and they need to be semi-servicable. 13" height on its side is enough for me to top the cells off as needed, although it would be cramped.


option B:
https://www.amazon.com/Topeakmart-Alumi ... ox+24-inch

I cut off about 6" off the back (i would cut less and fold it for a lip, then rivet on another sheet or the old one with some caulking. Tall enough for easy servicing, fairly weatherproof. Bending the aluminum would be a little hard but cutting it is easy as can be.


would love feedback and thoughts. Eventually I might want to add another 2 batteries, then throw some solar panels on the roof. Eastern oregon is all high desert, so there is plenty of sun out there

[McDave]

Hey Mark,
I just wanted to chime in here and say that I believe I have seen ramp doors on ebay. I have seen them somewhere, but my memory is not great right now. Can't hurt to check there.

McDave

[hankaye]

Mark959, Howdy;

Don't know if I'd want to be putting batteries in a metal box. I know,
it's done all the time... Just if they get to off gassing while charging
that gas is very corrosive and loves aluminum. Here's a link to something
that will fit a pair of GC-2s and next to it is a vent kit if you want to
install indoors or out. (bottom of the page)
http://www.batterymart.com/c-battery-boxes.html

hank

[Mark959]

You guys rock, I thought about the plastic but originally couldn't find one that was the right size for affordable.

This here looks almost perfect: http://www.batterymart.com/p-8d-commerc ... y-box.html a little wider than the 10", but as long as it is close I can probably work out OK.

as for ramp doors, this is the first time I'm finding any, but they dont ship and are in Michigan. I will call some local trailer shops and try my luck. More worried about the electrical and plumbing right now for comfort!

[Mark959]

Solar panels were on sale, just picked up two 100 watt panels, an mppt charger, and a 4x ATC fuse box. Drew up some plans to make a tilt-able mount for more efficiency, will be wiring them to provide 24v to the charger.

Also found some battery boxes that are lockable, not sure if I want to pony up the price or build my own yet...

Found some potential water tanks and an awning. I will add more details when it happens.

Ordered some sound deadening / vibration absorbing sheets, sticking that on the ceiling, then rock wool over that, then my wood planks. Was thinking about going further, but rock wool absorbs noise fairly well, the stuff I got says its for both sound reduction and insulation, should have about R8 for the ceiling. Then I will cut in some holes for the low profile 12v-1a LED can lights.

Trying to keep everything on the trailer 12v, except the refrigerator unfortunately. For the cost of a DC compressor or a ready-made 12v refrigerator.... it will be a while before that ever happens. The ones that use peltiers are junk in my opinion. If I want to do it cheaply I could use an automotive compressor and belt it to a 12vdc motor, most of these cheap fridges are r-134a anywho. My inverter and fridge combo seem efficient enough for now, I have 1.5-2 days without additional power, which means the losses aren't too bad with the inverter

[flboy]

Sounds nice. The 110vac fridge and inverter route is a good alternative. Still very efficient and you can use the inverter for other things if needed also. How many aH of battery storage you putting in the system?

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