Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm exploring the idea of converting a cargo trailer and the 7x14' size is what I'm focusing on. Looks like there will be a choice of having a single or a tandem axle trailer. What do most go with?

I'm leaning toward a single axle:

- Build will be basic and ultra-light (basically an insulated metal tent)
- Would look into a higher capacity single axle with brakes and possibly shock absorbers
- Less expense for tires, bearings, etc. over time

This being said, single axle 7x14 trailers seem to be more rare unless it is custom ordered/bought new. I'd be interested in hearing everyone's thoughts.

Thanks!

zuren, Howdy;

My trailer is a 6X14. I selected the single axle option and had it with a heavier one
ta boot (5,600 lbs gw). That way I'd get breaks and a 7-way plug so that when I install
an elect. system I can have the tow vehicle charge the battery(s) that I'll have onboard.
Where I live there are numerous Forest Service roads and that's why I went with the
"skinny" version. Also, the tight turns when backing are better handled with a single
axle as a double will 'scurb' or skid across any loose material and tear up the treads

hank

If you are buying the trailer to build an RV and you know it will be light weight, I would go single axle. if you think you will load up the trailer with 5,000 lbs of gear, then go double...

That is kind of the great thing about this whole build it yourself thing. you can throw "what everybody else does" to the wind and build it the way YOU want it, designed to meet YOUR needs.

happy camping

You might consider a Torflex axle and forgo the shocks. They ride better than springs. I did the 45 deg down start Torflex axle w/brakes and I have lots of ground clearance. No messing around with axle flipping after the fact.

I've seen some single axle trailers get squirrely when they have a blow out, for that reason I'd always go double with brakes on both.

I just ordered a 7 x 14 single axle VNose for my conversion. It has a 3500 lb axle w/brakes. Based on a previous build, the interior should weigh in at 1500 lbs, which should leave me undercmax load weight. I won't have holding tanks (unless you count the porta potty tank) as it will always be used with hook ups.

Iconfabul8 wrote:You might consider a Torflex axle and forgo the shocks. They ride better than springs. I did the 45 deg down start Torflex axle w/brakes.

I went with a 6x14 single axle Torflex rated at 5000 lbs (actually 6000 lbs but down rated bc of tire capacity) and have no regrets. Well almost no regrets. I would have liked the wider interior demensions of a 7x14 for putting the beds across the trailer, instead of lengthwise. But then again, I like the narrower width. I have no problems seeing things in my side mirrors.

you will be hard pressed to find a 7x14 w/ a single axle, for reasons only known to the trailer manufacturers

they are most frequently built w/ 2-3500# axles and a 2-5/16" coupler(required by laws associated with trailers above a 5000# load capacity) though the scantlings are usually the same as the smaller ones

trailers w/ a carrying capacity of 5000# or less can legally be built/equipped w/ a 2" coupler

each camp has their reasons/arguments for single vs double axle rigs and you will have to glean the wheat from the chaff yourself

realistically a trailer i would normaly relate to "tnttt" style/purpose wont weigh in heavy enough to require the extra carrying capacity associated w/ tandems(7000# +)

a single axle is easier to move when not hooked to a vehicle

tandems tend to want to go straight and sometimes have a tendency to push a lighter weight tow vehicle in corners

if your tow vehicle is a heavier one the tandem issues will not likely be an issue

there are a lot of folks who do pull tandem axle trailers w/ 1/2 ton vans, pick-ups & suv's and most of the time they get away with it butt IMHO the extra axle is often times over kill for ego issues

the extra spirng capacity gives a stiffer ride than is commonly necessary in cases like this

an extra axle adds weight and expense in the build

that'z an extra couple hundred dollars each time you re-tyre(every 5 or less years)

the desire to install a bed crossways holds water in my camp and i did have an enclosed m/c trailer w/ just that configuration which opened up a lot of space for STUFF

that should be enough muddying of the waters for the time being...

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT

sw

For your intended use, I like Hanks example. Having the heavier axle with brakes is a really nice foundation to build from.
It leaves open the option to do more than your current plan and could be very attractive if you decide to sell. The 7 way plug and ability to charge from tow vehicle is priceless if you plan to have 12v power in the trailer, also very attractive during resell.

McDave

I haven't seen any 7x14 singles. 7x12 is the longest singles I've looked at.
One issue with a longer trailer on 3500 Lbs is not a lot of carrying capacity left. One issue with a 5000 Lbs is if you don't "use" the added capacity it rides rough.


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Howdy All;

One thing that helped me pick the leaf spring axles is if I want it to ride softer I can remove a leaf.
When I purchased it it was (of course), empty. I was on my way to join some like minded fisher-folk
near West Yellowstone, Mt. so I stopped at a Wal-Mart or 2 (maybe 3), and picked up some supplies
like a cot, and a table. Already had a stove, cooler and sleeping bag. Total weight in the trailer was
probably near 300 pounds. Never made a difference the trailer rode fine the whole time up and all
the way back to Southern N.M. Now all of that was on highways and interstates. But then I don't
have a habit of driving at freeway speeds on back roads. I travel at a speed that allows the suspension
of my F-250 work more smoothly and so the trailer has time to ride the terrain as well.

hank

Perhaps I need to change my focus to 7x12 or 6x14-16 trailers and tape out the difference on the floor of my garage. I liked the idea of having the bed go across the trailer and I'm 6'2" so the 7' wide trailer would be required if I want to stretch out.

I'm comparing trailer dimensions against a purpose-built travel trailer. A local dealer carries Coachman Viking trailers that have an exterior width of 96" (7 ft.) with single axles. That is why my initial thought was to find a 7x14 single axle but maybe that is ill-advised but it looks like someone above was able to acquire one. Current tow vehicle is a Chevy Express 1500 van with tow package.

Thanks!

jwh92020 wrote:I just ordered a 7 x 14 single axle VNose for my conversion. It has a 3500 lb axle w/brakes. Based on a previous build, the interior should weigh in at 1500 lbs, which should leave me undercmax load weight. I won't have holding tanks (unless you count the porta potty tank) as it will always be used with hook ups.

jwh - Who did you order from and is the "V" included in the length spec? I've read that there is no standard for manufacturers whether the tapered V section is included in the length measurement or if it is a bonus.

Thanks!

z - I ordered a Crown through a dealer in GA with pick up in Waco, TX. According to the dealer, the square part of the box is 14 ft, with and additional 18" for the V. If you want his #, pm me & I'll give it to you.