Dometic RM211 fridge installation

[OP827]

Did anyone install such or similar fridge - http://www.nationalserroscotty.org/resources/DometicRM211.pdf?

I have a question on where would be the locations of screw holes to properly secure it down? I found two holes in the back bottom (about 1/4" diam) and two small 1/8" by 1/4" slots in the back top, so this should be it then, just put screws there?

Thanks!

[hankaye]

OP827, Howdy;

According to the install directions in the link you provided; at the top of pg.2
right hand column
"The refrigerator can be secured in the recess by screws or bolts
through the holes in the rear base plate."
From that I would presume that the 2 approx. 1/4" holes are that location.
Just my take on it

hank

[OP827]

Thanks Hank! How did I miss it ??

[Gladtobehere]

I just removed and reinstalled a similar Dometic rv fridge. It seems to me that the two holes at the bottom ,rear of the fridge and the front trim angle pieces are all that are used to hold the unit secure. My camper is 12 years old and those fasteners have held fine so far. In fact the rear screws where basically doing nothing at all so most of the stability came from the frnt trim.

[OP827]

I just removed and reinstalled a similar Dometic rv fridge. It seems to me that the two holes at the bottom ,rear of the fridge and the front trim angle pieces are all that are used to hold the unit secure. My camper is 12 years old and those fasteners have held fine so far. In fact the rear screws where basically doing nothing at all so most of the stability came from the frnt trim.

That is interesting. It is similar to what I saw on bigger RV fridges replacement videos where the front rim had screws through the face rim to attach to the opening front frame. So the front rim of your fridge had holes in it with screws?

Let me summarize once again: your fridge front rim had screws attached to the face frame and there are also two screws on the back bottom (those two are mentioned in installation instructions). And then there is more screws in the rear of the fridge, where are they?

My used fridge came from an hotel and it does not have any holes on the front or back except the ones mentioned in the installation manual. I know that my trailer suspension feels pretty stiff so far, so I may be considering adding some more screws... How many holes in the fridge front rim and then back do you have?

Thanks for help!

Oleg

[Gladtobehere]

Two at theback on the floor.

The front frame is essentially a 1/2 inch angle attached to fridge with 1/2 inch screws. Then the fridge slides in the last few inches and a few screws thru the face hold everything in place. I planned to use aluminum angle but found some composite angle that was real cheap (50 cents). The original plastice face frame was all broken up around the counter sunk screw holes so i whipped up a cheap replacement.

[OP827]

Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate that.
Now I have another question about the fridge fume exhaust adjustent and above area to be covered or be fireproof material as per installation instruction. In my build picture that area yet uncovered is on the right from cooktop recess. If I build a sort of hood maybe 4-6 inch high of aluminum flashing or galvanized steel and seal it as part of fridge compartment, will that be acceptable? Thanks for all comments.

[OP827]

Bump..

Maybe I should be more clear with what I am looking for. My question is how to properly "fireproof" the upper vent from heat and fumes coming from the heating elements. The sides and top of the top vent area "shall be or fireproof material or be covered with fireproof material"; that is how installation manual describes that with no specific materials mentioned. My google search through the forum was not successful. From the web search I saw not so much of fireproofing information I could found for a typical rv fridge, but more of propane fridge fires pics...


So... who has such experience and knowledge, could you please share it here?

Thanks again!

[OP827]

Found recommendations online, so I think I'll follow the intent of such design. The document calls for metal baffle towards the upper vent, on page 8 -
http://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/1236/635473-Installation-Manual.pdf

Aluminum, stainless, or galvanised sheet should work then.

[McDave]

Hey OP827,
I do not have a lot of experience with absorption type (ammonia) reefers, however the RV units I have worked on do not produce huge amounts of heat or exhaust. Effectively the same amount you would expect from a compressor (Freon) type unit. The difference of coarse being there is no open flame and fuel to be considered. The term "fireproof" is relative. I have seen concrete burn, so... What you are looking for is a way to protect the combustibles surrounding the unit. My intuition tells me that simple flashing or ducting type galvanized tin should be plenty of protection. You don't need a lot of it and it doesn't have to be a hermetically sealed compartment, just shield the areas that are exposed to exhaust and heat. You are basically just trying to "duct" or guide the exhaust out.
That's about all the help I have for ya.
Good Luck,

McDave

[hankaye]

OP827, Howdy;

I'll second what McDave said. Think of it as holding your hand over a Bic lighter only slightly larger,
then move your hand further away. You'll notice the lessening of the temp. from the flame. You'll
notice the curved piece of metal behind the riser, that is the heat shield for the back of the 'fridge.
Wander by your local Heating and AC place and ask the sheetmetal fabricator if he/she has any scrap
about the size you need, over state the size so you get a chunk you can trim to fit ...

hank

[OP827]

Thanks guys for good info.