Beginner looking for advise

[firemansd19]

Fireman,

Curious if you ever considered putting the air conditioning unit permanently inside? I have a similar setup and mounted it inside with a large vent out the back for exhaust and a tube through the floor to feed the intake vents on top/sides of unit. Exhaust and side intakes are sealed off separately from the front face so ambient room air is drawn through the front vents.

When I started my build a few years ago I toyed with this idea, but couldn’t find many “for sure” examples that it worked. I knew I didn’t want the AC permanently sticking out the trailer, so this was my in between idea. I special ordered my trailer with the cargo door for this reason. If I ever did it again I may do something like your set up. The question is does it work good? What size AC and trailer do u have?


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[skooter69]

Fireman,

Curious if you ever considered putting the air conditioning unit permanently inside? I have a similar setup and mounted it inside with a large vent out the back for exhaust and a tube through the floor to feed the intake vents on top/sides of unit. Exhaust and side intakes are sealed off separately from the front face so ambient room air is drawn through the front vents.



When I started my build a few years ago I toyed with this idea, but couldn’t find many “for sure” examples that it worked. I knew I didn’t want the AC permanently sticking out the trailer, so this was my in between idea. I special ordered my trailer with the cargo door for this reason. If I ever did it again I may do something like your set up. The question is does it work good? What size AC and trailer do u have?


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It works great. I've only been using it for one season (this summer), but no issues at all. I'm confident it's getting plenty of condenser cooling air from the floor intake. The exhaust might be only slightly undersized, but it doesn't seem to affect performance.

The trailer is a Neo NAVF 7x16. The AC is a cheapo 6,000 btu unit I bought at Menards for ~$120. All the small ones are a similar size, so if it ever craps out I can easily replace it.

[firemansd19]

Slowly getting these cabinets all finished up.











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[brianjonesphoto]

I’m also a beginner looking for advise and I hope it’s ok to hijack this thread for a second.

Cross member
I see an obvious advantage for 16 O.C. studs but I don’t see much about floor and roof cross member spacing adequate for light toy hauler conversions or is there a significant advantage to upgrading to 16”O.C.? I assume floor is more important than roof as I will not be doing any AC.

Thanks.

[firemansd19]

I’m also a beginner looking for advise and I hope it’s ok to hijack this thread for a second.

Cross member
I see an obvious advantage for 16 O.C. studs but I don’t see much about floor and roof cross member spacing adequate for light toy hauler conversions or is there a significant advantage to upgrading to 16”O.C.? I assume floor is more important than roof as I will not be doing any AC.

Thanks.

My roof and floor cross members are also 16” OC.


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[McDave]

I added cross members to the floor to haul the Harley. Its about 900 lbs but the weight is all concentrated into two points that are about 1.5" x 3" and about 6.5' apart. UTV's are also heavy but they spread the load better with four fat tires. The cross members were very light gauge angle anyways so a few more would have helped. I had to weld in supports for the rooftop A/C as well. These were both pretty easy jobs. May be better to modify trailer on your own rather than pay extra to factory? (2005 6x12 Pace Journey single axle)

McDave